Gen 1 TRD Prerunner Diff Noises

So I have this 2000 pre-runner and it has just around 131,000 miles on it, have had it since 2003 bought with 30,000 on it. Never been off road, used as a commuter vehicle and pulled a trailer or two in the years. So 4 years ago I heard this moaning noise coming from the rear end. I have mudder tires on it so at first I thought it was the tires howling till the noise grew louder. So I brought it to a shop that works on all types of vehicles and had them diagnose it as the main pinion bearing. I authorized the repair. This was there in Cali. So fast forward 4 years and all of a sudden the noise is back now I'm in North Carolina. But I thought surely it's not the diff. again. So I investigated the hanger bearing. Purchased it replaced it and before I put the driveshaft back on I decided to rotate the wheels. I could feel this horrific galling going on when I turn the yoke on the diff. but not when I turn the wheels.
So, sorry for the long winded paragraph.
But I was wondering, what is the likelihood that the pinion bearing is going out again? Could the pre load have been off? could it be the carrier bearings, could it be one of the gears has broken off could the whole rear end be shot!? All these questions will be answered this week and I am scared as hell to learn the problem. What the cost will be and how long will this repair last?
Then there is the question of, is there a history of the E-locker causing this issue without using it at all?
Does replacing the complete rear end seem like a more economical process than rebuilding or repairing the existing one? And if so can a NON E-locker be put into place?
according to the plate the diff. code is B03A which I believe would be a 4:10 gear ratio???
Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

Dont have an elocker, so dont know those issues, i have 555,000 on my diffs,, with zero issues, so if you go the non elocker I can testify to durability with a superchargered motor putting out another 100 hp to the diffs,
And you could probably find a used axle pretty cheap for 200.00 all day long

 

Well that's quite impressive, I am looking right now for a whole rear end to swap it out. I only used the e-locker since I've had it but twice I believe thanks for the feedback.

 

Do you know if the bearing race was replaced as well? I’m currently replacing all my differential bearings, and I’m replacing every bearing, race and seal in the diff for good measure. My outer pinion bearing was also bad.

 

According to the mechanic that did the work it was, I can only assume that it was as the mechanic was a good family friend. I now have decided to replace the whole chunk since I can't find a shop that has the knowledge of the E- locker diff. Not sure why this matters but evidently it does. The only place I can find a chunk is in San Diego Ca. they have a 4:30 ratio and now I need to see if it will work with the set up I have. The tires I have are 31x10.5x15 mud tires.

 

The e-locker wouldn't cause that noise, worst thing that happens if you don't use the e-locker for years is that it won't work when you do need it.

Do you replace the gear oil in the diff at the regular intervals? Every 30k or so?

 

well to be honest the gear oil was changed about 4-5 yrs ago when the pinion gear was replaced and that's the only time since I had it. I've driven maybe 30,000 miles on that oil. But now things are quite noisy and clunky in there.

 

hmm...I'd change the oil out and see if it solves your problem. It could be that the mileage and time have rendered it less effective and you're hearing the sound of the diff struggling as it gets hot (good, clean oil helps dissipate the heat and prevent that from happening).

75w90 is the kind of gear oil you want, I recommend synthetic but regular is fine too. I think it only takes a little over 2 quarts, but buy 3 to make sure you're covered.

It's super easy to do yourself, just undo the fill plug and drain plug (both are the same size bolt, 24mm I think?), drain out the old and fill it up with the new. Always a good idea to replace the crush washer on the bolts as well, you can get them through Toyota or Amazon.

 

If there is something catastrophically wrong with the differential itself, you or your mechanic would likely know when you drain the old fluid out as there would be big chunks/shavings of metal coming out with it. Hopefully that's not the case, but if it is then it's time to look for a replacement. Your diff is not something that you want to have seize up on you while you're driving.

 

thanks, I've thought of doing that but the actual feeling I get when I was under there turning the yoke and hearing as well, tells me there is more to this situation. I believe that the preload on the bearing was incorrect and caused premature wear of the Babbitt on the race. I've been told that it's advised not to use by a differential mechanic that has been doing regular diffs for 35+ years.

 

Agreed as most roads I travel are 2 way roads, that's all I need is a head on from it freezing up.