General Fabrication

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Alright guys I’m throwing together plans for a flatbed, looking for ideas on how to build a removable tent rack. Ideally the coupler would some how be recessed and not protrude into the bed space

This is the basic layout, still have a lot of designing to do

 

my intake needed a new mount, the way it mounted allowed it to move around a bit and it ended up breaking the factory nut that was tacked on.. so i made a new mount and added one for the front of the filter

 

I have the same TCAI...what filter are you running? It looks longer but thinner than the one that comes from URD. I have a S/C and the low temp radiator touches a little bit of the filter but that one you have may be thin enough not to really touch.

Any help is appreciated.

 

to be honest i have no clue what filter it is.. i actually sold this truck a year ago and i ended up buying it back a few weeks ago, and it came back with this filter.. wish i knew sorry dude.. if i were to guess im pretty sure he bought it from kartek

 

No worries man, thanks. Glad you got it back! haha

 

Anyone have a best bang for your buck set of small to 1/2” or 3/8 drill bits for steel?

 

Could you do it like the stake sides that truck beds have? So just have an open tube welded in the frame of the bed which would allow another tube to slip in (the rack itself would just slip in). Then either a detent pin or some kind of bolt with a recessed nut to secure it?

Something like this, just slips in, but a rack and not sides.

 

@tacoma16 I had the idea of a removeable bed rack and my friend had that idea. So far it’s looking like the best idea for making things easy to remove and store. The end horizontal bars have 5-6” of 1.5 OD tube for the long tubes running front to back to slide over.



We used these tube clamps to allow the tire carrier cross tubes to be positioned wherever we wanted.

$50 UTVDistribution 1-3/4" Tube Clamp Steel Weldable For Use With 1-3/4" OD Tubing

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N31DW77?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

Nice.

 

Needs paint and stain still but it’ll hold this tree till it’s damn big.

 

Arts and crafts today. Made a little notch for the resivour hoses on the new triple tube shocks. Also cut out a piece of tube from the bed cage where the tires rub at full articulation. I will bend a new tube to go there later. Just the notching for today.

 

Suspension compression will move that shock back a little as a heads up

 

I know it. Just took a good guess with the time I had available.

 

So they make pre-bent pieces for this purpose. Curt has some and etrailer has an in house brand. I bought the curt ones for mine. They're a little rough, but they were also really cheap.

https://www.etrailer.com/Tie-Down-Anchors/Curt/C83072.html

 

Building frame sliders. Using square tubing. For the legs that go from the frame to the slider rail under the pinch weld, which orientation is stronger when talking about bending forces from weight on the slider? I would like to have the tube on end like the drawing on the right so theres less change of it hanging up on rocks, but not if its going to be weaker.

 

Of the two choices, I would pick the "diamond", since it will hang up less. Personally I would use a tube for the outrigger though. Either way, be sure to run a triangle plate vertically off the outrigger to the frame. This will give the most resistance to bending the slider into the cab. You could also run a spreader plate or base plate in between the outrigger and frame, this will spread the load a little more and not want to puncture or bend the frame.

 

Definitely will have a base place and braces.

 

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