General Fabrication

From my rough measurements you wouldn't have to change the cross member to fit the 8" diff. The biggest issue is it's 1.5" wider per side than ours. So compensating for that gets complicated.

Still wish brian at FROR Had released his kit for that. Would have sold a lot I bet.

 

Gotta check out a 1st gen again , forgot how the tabs are more on the edges of the crossmember

Could maybe do it with tube subframe built from crossmember to crossmember and mount tabs off the tube if its out away from the crossmembe, then gusset and plate it in

I hear you on not an ideal location or timeframe to get crazy with the mounts

Closed my photobucket account so old threads prob have no pics but downloaded them all on my phone

Old 4runner I didnt push the mounts forward but wish i had. Might on my DD when I get it going or ill just build it into the lower arm geometry

Just an idea if you cant get the alignment you want with your stock mount location but sounds like you will be able to

Can always change things up down the line

 

I traced your diagram and this is what I came up with. I used 1/4" for the thickness. Is this what the part should look like?

 

https://a360.co/3H28PBV

I've never shared a file before, F360 says I can share by posting the above link in a browser and you don't need Fusion 360 installed. You are welcome to try. I make no promises.

 

It looks like you're trying to make the TacoTabs that Poly Performance sells. I love them on my truck. I like that there is overall 3 settings with each tab, something to consider. I need the oval inserts in the center and offset (actually just the offset) to "plug" the hole in the factory mount to have the bushing flush. @koditten or @Happysmiley can you cut those?

 

VIA your link here is the DXF which is what will be used to cut the flat part.

 

I hand drilled, cut, and shaped the filler pieces i made for my 4runner

If i ever step up and get a plasma table it would prob be something I'd make

 

I appreciate it. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to get the caster I wanted unless I was running all out on the rear cams and all in on the front and I just didn’t feel like I wanted to commit to locking in the mounts, never having driven this truck besides once turning it around a few years ago to work on the back. @Happysmiley convinced me to hold off on it until there’s more time to assess how I feel with different caster settings and maybe redoing the lower mounts if I want much more caster.

I did go ahead and download the app but it wanted me to sign in for some reason to view the file. Again I appreciate your help! One of these days I’d like to get a cad program to design a bunch of stuff. Thank you.

Yeah basically like a weld on cam bolt eliminator was the part I was designing. As I said above I decided not to commit to welding something I wasn’t 100% on before driving the thing. Instead I went with another company making cam eliminators and made filler pieces ala @Happysmiley after he explained how they give the bushing sleeves more surface area to mate to. These I made out of 1/4” flat bar with a hole saw and an angle grinder. They’re different because 1st gens use 3/4” hardware that takes up the whole cam slot. Idk maybe his were custom for different bushing sleeves and narrower hardware.




Now I’m rebuilding the uca mounts from unsuccessfully going from one long bolt to two shorter ones. Lol the snowball never seems to end. Haha

 

Quick question...for guys that built their bed cage, what tubing size did you guys use and does it have to be dom? I have an 06 and installing a 2.5x16 bypasses...

 

I would think .120 would be ideal for strength but DOM wouldn't be necessary. .120 mild steel would offer good strength but a better price.

 

1.75 is nice and I think @desertjunkie760 meant to say hot rolled tube is ok - DOM and HREW are mild steel, HREW won't kill your bank account.

 

Hrew is fine, definitely do 1.75 .120 wall though.

 

I work with HREW .120 and .40 for sprinkler work. A lot of times walking into warehouses you see areas where forklifts smash into the sprinkler pipe, it’s surprisingly strong. Even at .120 it just bends never seen it crack.

 

Okay but like...

How do you alignment?

 

Align using the heims on the upper arm

 

You are correct. Thank you for catching that.

 

I suck at mig but thought I would post a few pics of some fab not bought shit. Mounts and a high steer. Both pretty simple. Drilling matching holes is the hardest thing.

Steering gear has been a bitch.

 

Not worried about vibes with solid mounting the motor?

 

Few things left to finish up

 

I did my motor mounts pretty similar to yours I just made them fully removable.