General Fabrication

that's what my ex gf used to tell me... i could never figure out what she was talking about...

guess that's why she dumped me....

 

ha ha ha....and the entire time you thought she was talking about "shutter" speed on your camera....dumb a$$! ha ha ha

 

Same here I keep the speed square handy. A metal framers best friend

Nice!

 

hey man... if it works it works! we have all had to do some ghetto ass shit... if you havent... you havent truely fabricated yet.

 

thats a great "fix" to your problem, and if you weld a nut to the torque screw where the handle goes you can use an impact to make it faster, we do that to the scissor jacks for the class 9 cars to make them faster

 

I got my bender and Notcher on one cart now! Still needs a few hangers for tools, Casters and some paint but it came out nice

 

LOL I think I popped it because it had air it in before I started the build.

 

anyone know of a thread with a caged 05+ double cab?

 

what exactly are you looking for? many people in here have the experience to answer your questions.

 

Not on TW, but this is a quality DC caged build (and by "caged" I'm assuming you mean full cage front to back):

 

Yeah that thing is pretty sick.

 

Use a machinist square for checking 90 Deg Bends as long as it is new and you have not DROPPED it, it will read true every time. Tri Square heads etc all suffer from being tweaked if dropped, tri square heads the center tensioner becomes worn along with the blade groove and will allow minute shifting. Using a tri square 12 inch blade set to more then 9 inch's is also not recomended as it can throw the blade off general rule of thumb is 1/3rd of the blade must remain beyond the head face. Moreover, the quality of the material the blade is made out of has a lot to do with how long it will read square. I use Browne and Sharp or Starrett both are quality precision measuring tools manufacturers. Something to beware of when bending metal of any type, metal will attempt to return back to its original shape due to elasticity commonly called spring back. The material type, thickness and bend radius all play a role in how much spring back will occur. If you Google well :} you can find charts for all types of metal that will tell you how many degrees over 90 deg you should go in order to maintain the 90 deg after time. If you are trying to maintain 90 after welding on the part that’s a whole different problem for another post:}.


Check this site I can not speak for accuracy but it appears correct on a few that I did the math on manually.
http://www.custompartnet.com/calculator/bending-springback

My exp with metal working is banging tin since 1983 I have worked in alot of fields with it however, precision metal fabrication is where I spent a large amount of time. And for those of you who are are were AF 2A773 retired ACFT structural repair " You Bend It We Mend It".:}

 

Not fully caged front to back, just some protection in the cab. I'm not planning on racing, just tossing around the potential that I could still roll..just want to get some ideas

 

wow just went through that build ^^^ so nice

 

I remember another truck I saw on here that was a double cab caged..it was tan and thats all I remember

 

I don't know if you guys have seen these yet but I just picked up a set Vansantent has them on sale http://www.vansantent.com/pipemaster.htm

I wish I had these for last notch I did

 

yea... have you used them yet? because you may be hating life after you do. the pins that slide down tend to deflect away from the material unless you do it perfectly. ill just stick with my pro tools notcher and my eyeballs hahaha. i hated using those things but you may like them.

 

Oh that's good to know thanks for the info.

Edit: order canceled thanks for the heads up man.