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Geode's plumbing build

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Geode, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. Oct 24, 2012 at 7:41 PM
    #21
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Makes sense, thanks.
     
  2. Oct 25, 2012 at 2:17 AM
    #22
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    And if ya use pex,you can make it fit better,easier than copper.
     
  3. Oct 25, 2012 at 2:34 PM
    #23
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Next time, I promise ;)
     
  4. Oct 25, 2012 at 2:36 PM
    #24
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    What material do you prefer for drip pans, plastic, aluminum etc?
     
  5. Oct 25, 2012 at 2:59 PM
    #25
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Aluminum. Plastic is crap. It'll cook up brittle by the time its needed and leak.

    One thing I try to get people to install at water heaters in out of sight places is a WAGS valve.It's a sacrificial valve but will shut off water in case of a bad leak.
     
  6. Oct 27, 2012 at 7:30 AM
    #26
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, that wags is pretty cool, Ill keep it in mind as things move forward.
     
  7. Oct 27, 2012 at 7:43 AM
    #27
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    No prob. There are cheaper alternatives. May depend on where ya are.
     
  8. Nov 15, 2012 at 6:23 PM
    #28
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've been keeping my fresh concrete wet solidly for the last three plus weeks.
    I think it turned out pretty well, the pictures don't do it justice. I'm hoping to have the new water heater installed on top of it in a few weeks.

    DSC02671.jpg
    DSC02673.jpg
     
  9. Nov 15, 2012 at 9:01 PM
    #29
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Looks cool.
     
  10. Dec 22, 2012 at 12:03 PM
    #30
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The concrete support for the water heater is looking good. Next up was to prepare the floor joists for running new copper water lines through.

    Turns out that my floor joists needed some help. Folks from long ago had taken out large chunks of the joists for running plumbing etc through. So I wanted to return some strength to these joists prior to drilling holes for me new copper lines. My favorite hack was under the bathtub. I ended up re doing the bathtub plumbing, as it was leaking anyway. Then I jacked up the joists straight (+ a little extra)one at a time and screwed and glued 8' long strips of MDO to each side. The detail is not clear, but you can see how the toilet drain passed through an existing joist, requiring removal of a large section of the floor joist. I rerouted the drain around the joist and glued and screwed a 2" x 8" x 12' long board to strengthen it up. The toughest part of this work is that I have to keep my plumbing operational :eek:

    In the future all the drains and vents will be re done properly.

    DSC02624 (Large).jpg
    DSC02633 (Large).jpg
    DSC02635 (Large).jpg
    DSC02760 (Large).jpg
    DSC02761 (Large).jpg
    DSC02765 (Large).jpg
    DSC02778 (Large).jpg
    DSC02784 (Large).jpg
     
  11. Dec 22, 2012 at 12:07 PM
    #31
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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  12. Dec 22, 2012 at 6:48 PM
    #32
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Good job on floor repair. The floor under tub was hacked bad! Question . How far is the vent from trap,for the tub? I don't see a vent in pic for tub.
     
  13. Dec 23, 2012 at 2:52 AM
    #33
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    There is only 1 vent for the entire house (bathroom group and the kitchen drain). Pretty much everything in the house is questionable (I'm working on it). I spent the first 6 months tearing out and replacing knob and tube wiring.

    I do have traps on every fixture (bathtub/shower/vanity sink and kitchen sink).

    The bathroom group is about 6' away from the main vent/stack. I will post up a small video showing where everything is. The drain/vent system appears to have been working correctly for the most part for many years. We rented for 12 years and bought the house in 08'.

    Long term plan is to install full basement bathroom with injection pit and its own drain vent system. Then cut out the upstairs bathroom and re do all the drains/vents and stack through the roof.

    I've repaired most all of the floor joists that were clearly undermined. Can't wait to move on :)
     
  14. Dec 23, 2012 at 2:54 AM
    #34
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the questions on the venting, I'll post up clearer information on it. I look forward to learning a bit more of how these systems function, or not as may be the case.
     
  15. Dec 23, 2012 at 1:06 PM
    #35
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'll be running hot and cold lines through my floor joists. Provided I stay within the middle third of the joist, would it be ok to run the hot and cold at different depths within the joist? There are places where the hot and cold lines will branch off. If they are at different places within the joist they should be able to cross over one another etc.
    Thanks
     
  16. Dec 23, 2012 at 1:14 PM
    #36
    Kolunatic

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    Whenever I used to run pipes around in a house,I'd have the hot high. Was easy to remember which is which. Hot high. And yea just keep them away from surfaces so they can't get hit by nails or screws.
     
  17. Dec 23, 2012 at 3:12 PM
    #37
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Can do, thanks.
     
  18. Dec 23, 2012 at 3:22 PM
    #38
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    We are trying out some colors for the walls and ceiling. I also added some self leveling cement to the rear of the water heater concrete support to bring it to level. I temporarily put the water heater in its spot and it sits very solidly and straight! That is a relief....Also shown is an aluminum drip pan 24" x 1 1/2" tall. I had to look around to find one so shallow, which according to the water heater manual is just right (1 3/4" max depth).

    DSC02787 (Large).jpg
    DSC02788 (Large).jpg
    DSC02789 (Large).jpg
     
  19. Dec 23, 2012 at 3:22 PM
    #39
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Welcome:)
     
  20. Dec 23, 2012 at 4:09 PM
    #40
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Pipes should be in the middle third of the joists ( from top to bottom )
     
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