1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Geode's plumbing build

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Geode, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. Oct 5, 2012 at 12:54 PM
    #1
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    So I have been getting some good advice on the "ask the plumber" thread. It was suggested I start a "build" thread, which makes sense.

    I started out by replacing my water main with new 1" copper (we dug the trench by hand). See thread below for where it all started, and where it may go wrong.....http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/off-topic-discussion/195105-ask-plumber-11.html

    At this point the task is to install a new high efficiency direct vent water heater.
    Though I do need to pour a few cubic feet of concrete first for the water heater to sit on. A structural engineer signed off on the design, which will entail epoxying rebar into the existing footing etc.

    But before I commit to the water heaters final location location, I want to rough in the water heater so I'll no exactly where to pour the concrete.....

    DSC02441 (Large).JPG
     
  2. Oct 5, 2012 at 4:14 PM
    #2
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
  3. Oct 15, 2012 at 9:04 PM
    #3
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    I'm making some progress. I have begun the rough in of the plumbing.
    I heated up and bent two pieces of rebar for the concrete water heater support and finished most of the concrete form.

    Next up is to get the green light from the plumbing inspector that the location is good.

    Then I'll drill the 3/4" holes in the concrete for the rebar, followed by an inspection from the city building inspector.

    If that goes well, I'll glue my rebar in with ceramic epoxy, install the concrete form and pour the concrete. Followed by yet again another inspection.

    Then with a nice concrete support for the water heater I'll get serious about finishing up the rough in and get that bad boy running....

    DSC02467 (Large).jpg
    DSC02489 (Large).JPG
    DSC02490 (Large).jpg
    DSC02496 (Large).jpg
    DSC02482 (Large).jpg
    DSC02487 (Large).JPG
     
  4. Oct 16, 2012 at 4:14 PM
    #4
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Member:
    #77862
    Messages:
    9,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    07,2wd,DC,SRD,TRD Sport,because
    Very good job .
     
  5. Oct 16, 2012 at 6:49 PM
    #5
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    Hey thanks!
     
  6. Oct 16, 2012 at 6:50 PM
    #6
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    Got the holes for the rebar drilled, next up will be gluing them in.

    DSC02500 (Large).jpg
     
  7. Oct 17, 2012 at 9:38 AM
    #7
    TRD Larry

    TRD Larry trd larry

    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2007
    Member:
    #2792
    Messages:
    356
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Larry
    South Park, PA
    Vehicle:
    08 Tacoma Black,Sport package,
    Sport pedals, Extang full-tilt cover, Magnaflow exhaust system, XPEL invisible paint protection, TRD short Shifter, Hood struts, Homelink mirror, Dbl power outlets,Kuhmo 275x55x20, Platinum #220 Abyss wheels 20x9.5. Muth heated signal mirrors TSB. Lo-Tek Pilllar pod with Glow-Shift gauges, 4x4 illuminated switch, Pioneer Z110BT (upgraded to Z130BT) w/2011 toyota tailgate backup camera,traffic tuner, parking brake bypass. Leather interior w/heated seats. LED's installed in glove box, center console, front and rear cupholders, rear console vent, AFE CAI, LED taillights, under hood lights, LED bed lights,oil catch can.
    Did you consider a tankless water heater. Don't know know what you water demand is but the tankless might have been easier and less work.
     
  8. Oct 17, 2012 at 9:42 AM
    #8
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2010
    Member:
    #39131
    Messages:
    28,792
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Massachusetts
    Vehicle:
    '13 Ford F-150 SCREW
    F-150 Mod
    Once I found Pex pipe, I'll never go back to sweating copper again :cool:
     
  9. Oct 17, 2012 at 9:53 AM
    #9
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    The heat source will handle domestic hot water and radiant heat for the home. The source I went with was recommended by the company that designed my radiant heat system. http://www.nrtradiant.com/
     
  10. Oct 17, 2012 at 9:59 AM
    #10
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    I can understand that!
    The wife would never hear of using anything but copper ;)
    And as she has removed over 75 cubic yards of dirt from the basement in 5 gallon buckets she will get the copper :D

    I'm an electronics technician/engineer. I do a tremendous amount of electrical soldering by hand, mostly surface mount stuff. So I'm really enjoying sweating the larger stuff, it is like magic for me.
     
  11. Oct 17, 2012 at 10:01 AM
    #11
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    Thanks for the reply's everyone. Be sure and check out the posts I put up in the "ask a plumber" section if you want more background on my project.
    It is quite involved and interesting, at least to me ;)

    It all started with hand digging and replacing my water main.
     
  12. Oct 17, 2012 at 5:29 PM
    #12
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Member:
    #77862
    Messages:
    9,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    07,2wd,DC,SRD,TRD Sport,because
    Looking good.

    I like tankless heaters. I work on them but don't have one. And your application is not for a tankless.
     
  13. Oct 17, 2012 at 5:32 PM
    #13
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free Since 1983

    Joined:
    Jun 18, 2010
    Member:
    #39131
    Messages:
    28,792
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Mike
    Massachusetts
    Vehicle:
    '13 Ford F-150 SCREW
    F-150 Mod
    I hear ya there. I much prefer sweating pipes to electrical soldering. I still sweat anything that will be seen using the old school brass fittings (those suckers take a LOT of heat). The old fittings go well with my hold house, looks original. I then stubbed copper into the basement and transferred everything to pex. I like it for the freezing. The stuff expands 3x it's size before bursting so for my plumbing running in the basement and crawl space, it was a no brainer.

    Your project looks great, nice work :thumbsup:
     
  14. Oct 17, 2012 at 5:34 PM
    #14
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Member:
    #77862
    Messages:
    9,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    07,2wd,DC,SRD,TRD Sport,because
    Especially when a 100' roll of pex costs less than 30$!
     
  15. Oct 21, 2012 at 6:27 PM
    #15
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    I passed my rebar inspection on Friday and just finished pouring the 1/2 circle for my water heater support.

    The first photo is of my Hitachi SDS hammer drill with several bits. For the 3/4" holes I started with a 1/2" bit followed by the 3/4". I could have used just the 3/4" bit, but there was a chance I would hit some internal rebar, I figured better to ruin an old 1/2" bit then the new 3/4".

    After drilling, I used a wire brush with a home made extension to clear the holes out. I also blew out the holes with compressed air. Then using an injection gun with a long nozzle I injected Epcon 6 ceramic epoxy in to the holes. Work fast on this, the set time is less than ten minutes. Also shown is a support I made to hold the rebar in the proper place while drying.

    DSC02514 (Large).jpg
    DSC02519 (Large).JPG
    DSC02523 (Large).jpg
     
  16. Oct 21, 2012 at 6:48 PM
    #16
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    Prior to installing the rebar, I used a wood 4" x 4" to compress the ground where the concrete will be.

    I drilled 3/16" pilot holes for attaching the concrete form with Tapcon concrete screws (1/4" x 3 1/4"). Then we made sure the form had sealed up tight against the existing concrete.

    A few pictures of my two electric mixers and the raw aggregate I started with. The form took 4.5" cubic feet of concrete to fill up.

    The last picture shows the finished product. Note the external brace I put in, just to be safe (in case the Tapcons were to pull out).

    I also used my small concrete vibrator after filling up the form to remove air bubbles and liquefy the concrete so it consolidates and self levels (very cool tool).

    Lastly I attached a photo of an old tree on my property, the only tree....
    My arborist estimates the tree's age at 225 to 250 years old. It a slow growing Burr Oak tree.

    DSC02511 (Large).jpg
    DSC02526 (Large).jpg
    DSC02531 (Large).jpg
    DSC02536 (Large).jpg
    DSC02538 (Large).jpg
    DSC02539 (Large).jpg
    DSC02546 (Large).jpg
    DSC02552 (Large).jpg
    DSC02551 (Large).jpg
    DSC02540 (Large).jpg
     
  17. Oct 24, 2012 at 9:52 AM
    #17
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    I'm interested in your alls thoughts on this.

    I have 7 1/2" floor joists. I'll be cutting 1" holes through near the middle of the joists to run the pipe.

    I have an HVAC duct that takes up all the bay near where it ends. I heard that they have flexible ducting to handle this?

    It dawned on me that I could use 45 degree elbows to lower where the pipe is in the offending joist, but these seems kind of stupid :eek:

    Thanks
     
  18. Oct 24, 2012 at 2:43 PM
    #18
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Member:
    #77862
    Messages:
    9,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    07,2wd,DC,SRD,TRD Sport,because
    Are ya talking duct? Then yes. Get the good stuff. You can get at Lowe's. They also have transition fittings.
     
  19. Oct 24, 2012 at 3:10 PM
    #19
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 22, 2009
    Member:
    #23175
    Messages:
    253
    Gender:
    Male
    Illinois
    Vehicle:
    09 4WD TRD
    There is a heating and cooling duct that terminates against the wall. I would like to run my copper pipe up in the floor joists about 18" away from the outside wall. But there is a circular duct in the bay. Not sure how best to avoid it. I've attached a photo, hopefully that will help some.
    Thanks

    DSC02591 (Large).JPG
     
  20. Oct 24, 2012 at 3:46 PM
    #20
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2012
    Member:
    #77862
    Messages:
    9,779
    Gender:
    Male
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    07,2wd,DC,SRD,TRD Sport,because
    I think I understand. You can use the fiberglass insulated duct for that area to offset the pipes.
     
To Top