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Geode's plumbing build

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by Geode, Oct 5, 2012.

  1. Feb 17, 2013 at 2:24 PM
    #101
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Not sure if it can be re built, looked on-line and on Nibco's web site to no avail.
    I will disassemble the leaking one, and if possible toss new parts in it. Question though, if it's just the seal around the lever leaking, can that be replaced without opening the valve body? If not I'll have to cut the copper so I can un-screw the valve body.
    Thanks
     
  2. Feb 17, 2013 at 3:49 PM
    #102
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Try graphite packing and Teflon tape.
     
  3. Feb 17, 2013 at 5:41 PM
    #103
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I rarely fail to amaze myself. For all the times I've taken the handles off during soldering, I never noticed the nut on the back side. The inner nut was very lose, I could easily turn it with my fingers. Lightly cinched it up and the leaking has stopped, at least for now!

    DSC02857 (Large).jpg
     
  4. Feb 18, 2013 at 3:13 AM
    #104
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Ta Da! :)
     
  5. Feb 20, 2013 at 5:47 AM
    #105
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For sure, I'm so glad not to have to replace that valve!
     
  6. Feb 23, 2013 at 3:29 PM
    #106
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Attached is a photo of the bathroom branch (hot and cold). I was planning on running the hot line down at a 45 degree angle to get around the cold line etc. I realized there would be no way to drain this line completely. Wondering if there is anything wrong with that? If and when it might need repaired you may get a bit wet.
    Thanks

    DSC02869 (Large).jpg
     
  7. Feb 23, 2013 at 6:40 PM
    #107
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Looks damn good. Don't woerry. Aszbout draining,tfhats what a shop vac is good for.
     
  8. Mar 9, 2013 at 7:44 PM
    #108
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Made a lot of progress since the last update.

    I've run a dedicated 15 amp circuit for the water heater. The electrical inspector added this circuit to the electrical permit I pulled a few years back, and will check it out next week for no cost, awesome.

    I've added the tubing for the pressure and temperature relief valve, exhaust and inlet vent condensate drain lines. Currently I don't have a floor drain, or a floor at the moment....That is next, along with the radiant tubing. I've finished the copper tubing for the most part, all shut off valves for the branches etc. Once the plumbing inspector signs off on the water heater I'll start tying all my fixtures into the new line...I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things for now.

    DSC02873 (Large).jpg
    DSC02879 (Large).jpg
    DSC02882 (Large).jpg
     
  9. Mar 9, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #109
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    That's good progress. My home project at the moment is hand digging a new water line a few hundred feet long.
     
  10. Mar 10, 2013 at 8:58 PM
    #110
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Sounds fun, should post up some photos. I started up my water heater this evening, went on without a hitch! I've never been so pleased to make hot water....I'm an electronics engineer by day, so thought I would toss some temperature sensors onto the hot water line and mixed line to adjust the water heater thermostat and the mixing the valve. I'm looking for 130F for the hot, and 120F for the mixed (to fixtures etc). The 130F is the design temp for the radiant.

    DSC02883 (Large).jpg
    DSC02892 (Large).jpg
    DSC02886 (Large).jpg
     
  11. Mar 11, 2013 at 2:09 AM
    #111
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    :dancingbacon::broccoli::taco::bananadance::headbang:
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2013
  12. Mar 11, 2013 at 2:12 AM
    #112
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    Congrats. I got about 60' of water line done with tie in and ISO valve and backfilled before the rain came. It's a muddy mess now.
     
  13. Mar 12, 2013 at 5:47 PM
    #113
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Passed my two inspections this morning! The plumbing inspector had one suggestion, that I branch off near the bottom of my washer hookups and install water hammer arrestors. He said I could make my own with an 8" piece of 3/4" copper capped on the end (oriented vertically). This will create an air pocket, smoothing things out?
     
  14. Mar 12, 2013 at 6:14 PM
    #114
    ToyotaTRD

    ToyotaTRD Well-Known Member

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    That will work to eliminate water hammer but will eventually fill up with water and stop working. You can buy water hammer arresters which solder in or thread in. I recommend the threaded type because they can be replaced when they fail. Mineral deposits will eventually crud them up. I have a set on my washing machine and they stop the water hammer and make a huge difference. Anywhere you have a water solenoid valve, you will get water hammer. The quick closing of the water valve causes the hammer. This can lead to solenoid failure or even cause excessive stress son the water hoses themselves. The style for the washing machine actually have hose threads and they will attach directly to the washing machine and the hoses connect to them. This is ideal because the closer to the hammer source, the better they will work. Here's a link to the ones I use. http://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-660-H-4-Inch-Female/dp/B000H5MQNM/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y
     
  15. Mar 12, 2013 at 11:10 PM
    #115
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    This^^^
     
  16. Mar 13, 2013 at 9:29 AM
    #116
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks a lot for the link and the explanation. I'll pick up a pair right quick!
    I read that it is best to install it as close to the source as possible (solenoid). And go on to recommend attaching it directly to the washing machine for best results. I like that they are manufactured in the US, and their website contains a lot of technical/installation information. http://www.siouxchief.com/index.htm
     
  17. Mar 13, 2013 at 5:20 PM
    #117
    ToyotaTRD

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    Yea, I'm glad they are US made. I have a ton of US made stuff. BTW, nice job with your install and I give you a lot of credit for using copper pipe and doing it as best as you can. You don't see that very often. I redid all my mechanicals in my house and used copper, black iron, unistrut for hanging, elctrical conduit and kept everything nice and tidy. I don't have a problem with pex tubing or tracpipe gas lines but it sure allows people to do work they shouldn't be anywhere near. My favorite saying about pex tubing is its ability to freeze several times and not burst. Should it be freezing though? If installed correctly, your water lines shouldn't freeze and if a product doesn't burst due to freezing it shouldn't be installed with a care free attitude either.
     
  18. Mar 16, 2013 at 8:47 AM
    #118
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks, it's been an interesting Journey so far. It's been tough not to get down on myself for how long it is taking. An unforeseen benefit of creating this thread was that I can go back to the beginning and see how far we have come and all the work in between. I can't express my thanks enough to all of you that have helped me out along the way. I always try to to do the same for others when I can.
     
  19. Mar 16, 2013 at 4:28 PM
    #119
    Geode

    Geode [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Setting up the mixing valve to temper down my 130F water is proving a challenge. The mixing valve works perfectly, But I seem to have one serious case of thermosiphoning. When i'm drawing hot water from the heater, the cold inlet pipe which enters at the bottom of the water heater is nice and cold as should be (around 55F). When the demand for hot water ends, the cold inlet pipe temperature rises to over 100F in two or three minutes :eek:

    I have a heat trap on the hot side to the mixing valve, and I could change the piping of the cold supply to the mixing valve so it was originating near the bottom of the water heater. Looks like I might need a check valve on the cold line heading for the mixing valve (swing or spring).

    This fellows issues sounds very similar. http://www.heatinghelp.com/forum-thread/105486/Taco-Mixing-Valve-Is-Thermosiphoning

    Thanks

    DSC02854 (Large).jpg
     
  20. Mar 16, 2013 at 7:30 PM
    #120
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic dont tread on me!

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    I'd put a check valve in. I always try and install them with mixing valves and circ pumps.
     
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