GREAT NEWS FOR THROWOUT BEARING / RELEASE BEARING ISSUES!!!! V6 6SPEED

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Does the kit just get rid of the noise or does it improve the feel of the transmission as well?

Is there a difference in the PDM and the URD kits??

 

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Well , never say never......

This guy took a pic of the damage after he drove his FJ too long while the throw out bearing was making noise. While pulling away from a stop light it let go in a spectacular fashion. Notice the quill had totally ripped free when the bearing finally seized. He has a thread on it in the transmission section of the "FJ Cruiser Forum".

 

Wow! So.....what brand of clutch should we go with? I will check out the rest of the story over there. Make sure we have all the "facts", know what I mean? Thanks!

 

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He reported having a 164k miles on it and the noise had come and gone multiple times.That's why my thought was "he drove it too long" in that condition. He said after it self destructed he opened his door and watched one of the ball bearings roll on down the pavement ......

As far as clutches being replaced on the FJ's, there doesn't seem to be a clear consensus. Seems like every thread I've seen on clutch replacement, involving other than a stock Toyo piece, utilizes a different brand name.

I often pull a couple different trailers with my FJ, a 3900 lb camper and a double axle utility (and I occasionally exceed the 5k limit on the double axle). I've got just shy of 90k on my truck and the bulk of those miles have been pulling the camper coast to coast so many times I've lost count. Still all the original pieces in the drivetrain so I suppose when she starts to give up the ghost, I'll R&R everything at once. Can't complain about the stock Toyo clutch/pressure plate assembly so I'm thinkin' to go with the same setup.

 

i completely agree... had the same issue with my 2008- fixed completely by the urd/pdm throw out bearing metal sleeve for less than $200.

 

So for 200 bucks, I take it you did it yourself. Did you need any special tools? I have basic stuff and pneumatics, along with several floor jacks and stands.

71Roadrunner, NICE looking rig. I will probably stay with stock too. I put some value in it being a known entity.

I'm just going to let it squeal until clutch time, then do the sleeve mod at the same time. By then I will know how long it will last with my driving habits.

I curse that reverse gear ratio. Got nothing to do with the topic...just wanted it said again.

Thanks for the input guys!

 

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If you're considering a DIY, I will post a link (to follow) for a thread I started almost 4 years ago regarding the entire TO Bearing adventure. It's full of info from many members who encountered the problem. There is a link to the TSB as well as one fellow (TrailTeamED) who replaced everything himself and was kind enough to include lots of pics of his DIY. See posts 116, 131, & 135. Post 131 has a list of tools he used (or recommends using in hindsight). BTW, he used a URD Stage 3 clutch and included pics of the new and old discs next to each other on his garage floor.

I totally agree on the reverse tranny gearing. It's bad enough by itself, but trying to back up with a loaded trailer is damn near impossible. I always shift down to low range for reversing with a trailer (otherwise, big time clutch disc burning stink abounds).

LINK : http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...106475-throwout-bearing-trouble-6-speeds.html

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Hey Roadrunner, am I hearing you right, you have no problems with your clutch in your FJ? I remember you were the one who got the ball rolling on the aftermarket sleeve solution, but I didn't remember if yours had failed or not. In any case, thanks for helping make that happen. Hope I don't ever need it. I have 18K on my stock replacement clutch with no updates. No squeak yet (knock on wood). Ticked me off pretty bad when Toyota came out with a TSB AFTER they fixed mine. At least it was a freebie.

I have seen the aftermath of a failing TO bearing that was let go too long on an F350. The bearing came apart, the clutch fork went into the pressure plate "fingers", and miscellaneous shrapnel came out of the bellhousing. Big money! Just like the FJ pictured. Anybody who is reading this and thinking they can put it off, think hard. You can probably put it off long enough to budget for it, but not forever. Kinda scary what might have happened at 5K RPM if the bearing gave out then. The F350 was a diesel, so not that many RPMS.

 

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Back at the time I had just completed a Keisler tranny swap into a 40 year old muscle car which included the hydraulic throw out bearing diaphragm. If great pieces could be made for the old dinosaurs, how come Toyota still had no clear answer for all their TOB failures ? So I contacted Joel at PDM about producing a kit for the RA61F 6 speed manual transmissions. I figured Murphy's Law would surely come into play and my FJ would suffer the TOB malady like so many others. As it turns out, mine may be one of the Toyo's that goes over a 100k on stock parts. Surprising, especially the way I have used it (kinda' makes me want to dissect mine and compare it to some that failed). One has to wonder what the ratio of good/bad is. Unfortunately, failure threads only show the failures, so we never get a good feel for the successful units. I guess only Toyo would have a handle on that, and it will be a cold day in hell before they share that with us.

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What an atrocity!!! Come on Toyota! Get your shit together!

 

I fixed my 2008 this way. Works fine and no noise.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/technical-chat/272427-fix-squeaking-clutch.html

 

bigfro - Who did you work with at Go Toyota? You don't happen to have that 200 page letter available, do you? Any advice on how to navigate having the PDM steel slave kit installed under warranty is appreciated. I don't mind buying the PDM kit myself, as long as this fixes the issue once and for all!



This was my write-up before I found your thread:

I know the squeaky/chirp throwout bearing design flaw has been covered in detail, but I want to get some input from you guys on where to go with this. I have an '09 TRD Off Road and bought it used with 38,000 miles on it in December 2011 at Go Toyota in Denver. I heard the chirp in the dealer's lot before I bought the truck thinking that it was a wet belt from them detailing the truck. As it turns out, it was the throwout bearing issue. I had the throwout bearing TSB done at Liberty Toyota in Colorado Springs under warranty. Side note on the first fix - I got a call after I had picked up the truck and they wanted me to come back in for them to "double check" something. Turns out one of their mechanics couldn't remember if he tourqued down the driveshaft mount. The chirp went away for probably 3,000 miles and then started rearing it's ugly head not too long after, progressively getting worse. I now have 74,000 miles on it and I am curious what your thoughts are on getting this fixed for good. The TSB "fix" is a band aid fix, putting the same diameter, steel throwout bearing on the aluminum pilot shaft, so the shaft is now worn to where putting the TSB on it again will not fix it. I recently talked with one of the service guys at Go Toyota about the issue. He allowed me to go back into the shop and talk with one of their seasoned mechanics and he basically acknowledged the issue, but they were pushing me to deal with Toyota Corporate on the issue. I think the best solution at this point is to install the PDM stainless steel sleeve on top of the pilot shaft with their throwout bearing and call it good. I ran the deal of Toyota performing the labor under warranty if I bought the parts, and once again, they pushed me towards Toyota Corporate, saying that they really do work with people and that I have a 50/50% chance of them going for it. I know that a lot of you have been through this, so what're your thoughts on how to navigate this? Love my truck, but this is definitely the weak point of the truck. The only other option would be for Toyota to replace the bell housing, but even that would only be good for another 50,000 miles. I have a 100,000 drivetrain warranty as a part of buying a Pre-Certified truck.

 

Shit. I'm at just about 86K on my 08' X-Runner and way way out of warranty. I've been chirping along for the last 10k miles or so. I guess I'm left to put in the sleeve once the clutch gets ready to bite the dust. That's still a while away. I hope it holds up until then.

 

Howdy!

I am actually holding an invoice. I paid 402 dollars and they replaced the TOB, and the clutch pedal (TSB for feel)...

They covered labor, I paid the 185 for the steel TOB.

Funny.... My truck is up there again with cracked engine mounts.... I will be heading up there to get it as they have declined to help at all... I hope to get up there today at some point so I can take the truck home and figure out my next steps.

I dont have a scanner. But I do have my VIN, and oh boy will they hate me for sharing it...

5TEUU42N35Z022250

They did the work on OCT 26 2010.
Have them pull invoices from my truck...

Or I can meet you (assuming I can find a ride and give you my invoices and my take on the TOB)

 

Have any of you guys read the adjustment procedures for your clutch ?
Might be worthwhile



http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...ation-your-6-speed-transmissiom-write-up.html

 

You have to admire Tacoma drivers to continue to do the wrong thing and repeat it when they get the same result.

 

I did this DIY over the past winter and went with the URD sleeve and replaced the clutch and pressure plate with the URD Stage II clutch kit while I was in there. Took me about 7hrs total with my Dad helping, he's 79 so it was more moral support but great help nonetheless.

I also adjusted the clutch afterwards per the link gearcruncher noted above.

Works like a charm now! No squeaking, chirping etc and clutch is nice and smooth. The nose on the trans was definitely pretty scarred up and the TO bearing felt like it was on its way out as well.... Truck had 100k on itat the time of replacement. I now have 130k and no issues and buttery smooth clutch pedal as well.

Life is good.

James

 

09 Tacoma was making a chirping or squeaking noise at idle which stoppedafter depressing the clutch pedal. It was diagnosed as the throw out bearing. Ilet the dealership know that I'd researched the issue online and that it seemedto be a chronic problem with these vehicles. Without mentioning this, I'm notconvinced the dealership would have looked into any further. Before the dealerresearched the TSB, they said the warranty department would not cover the throwout bearing because it's looked at as wear and tear after about 10k (plus orminus) miles. After finding the TSB, the warranty department covered it. I wasglad to hear that the $1300 estimate (entire clutch kit replacement includingclutch plate resurface) got reduced to a $50 deductible!! A member reported onanother thread that his warranty was up, but the dealership cut the labor inhalf since there was a TSB out for the issue. They replaced the slave cylinderwith one that is sized differently than the original part, the throw outbearing, and maybe one or two other items.
Here's a thread to read concerning manual transmissions that also covers the throw out bearing issue:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/te...ation-your-6-speed-transmissiom-write-up.html

 

This is great news. I have a 2006 Xrunner that has been making this noise. Any updates? What is the total cost for repair?

 

PDM tranquil sleeve kit and TOB is 225. Aisin clutch kit from Rockauto is 300. Flywheel resurface is 50 to 100 bucks. 5 hrs labor at 80 bucks an hour-400 bucks. Not Toyota labor price, obviously. Total about $1000.I wouldn't dream of doing a throwout bearing and not do a clutch while I was in there if you had any significant mileage. I bought a center force II from Summit racing (for about 600 bucks!) and had it installed...had AISIN stamped on clutch and pressure plate. I would not hesitate next time to go with the rockauto Aisin kit.

After thinking about it a little more, once the PDM kit goes in, the squeal will be gone. So if you have lowish miles, you could have the TOB kit done for probably 500 to 600 P&L, and be GTG for a long time. I now have a slight RPM dependent vibe that was not there before clutch replacement. So I can kinda dig not effin with the clutch/ flywheel and saving 400 to 500 bucks.