GREAT NEWS FOR THROWOUT BEARING / RELEASE BEARING ISSUES!!!! V6 6SPEED

Honestly, it's an easy job. I've never pulled one out and rebuilt one before. It still only took 45 minutes to remove it, rebuild it and reinstall it. Bleeding it added another 20 minutes or something.
The better question is how comfortable you are working on your vehicles. If you're confident in your mechanical skills, you'll be fine. You'll also have to bleed the clutch, so have a friend available to help.
Obviously with the more tools and experience you have, the easier it is.

 

What is the best replacement throw out bearing for the 2nd gen 4.0 6 speed?

 

Pre loading the Throw Out bearing is a massive mistake .
Do Not do this
Read this link to find out why . Toyota has made a massive engineering mistake and you guys as owner are paying for it .
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...on-your-6-speed-transmissiom-write-up.338840/

 

When my truck had 40000 miles on it, it was chirping like crazy, drove me nuts. one day i realized when i just put a little pressure on the pedal it went away, so i adjusted the rod on top of the clutch pedal just enough for the chirp to go away. it was great till 200,000 miles till I replaced the clutch, tranny & tob. tranny was grinding between 2nd & 3rd forever.

so i have to disagree with the pre load thing cause it worked for me with no issue.

 

Doing it this way is asking for trouble. Adjusting the rod prevents the clutch hydraulics from resetting (for lack of a better word) when the pedal is up. You have to fix it at the slave cylinder.

 

there is no adjustment at the slave, the only user serviceable adjustment is at the rod at the master which is at the top of the clutch pedal. like i said, it was fine for 150,000 miles plus.

 

Thats a huge mistake trying to fix this issue at the slave cylinder .I wont go as far as saying it,s BS as some individuals like to utilize but , all you are doing is creating additional wear on your release bearing and your aluminum quill where the bearing rides . Are you making the noise go away " YES " because you are making the bearing that is slightly touching the pressure plate and forcing it against the pressure plate which in turn causes the bearing to spin all the time . The noise went away so the problem must be fixed . Yup its quiet so it must be fixed
This is " NOT " how a diagphram style clutch works
Are you fixing the issue ? " absolutely not " The bearing may go quiet but its not the fix . Most Tacoma owners fall into this trap because they dont understand how a diagphram style clutch works . You cook the bearing and you cook your quill .
Unfortunately , Toyota doesn't give us enough adjustment to totally fix the problem which has plagued Toyota transmissions for the past few years.
Strange how the Tacoma,s with enough clearance never had an issue 2000-2005 as an example ..
To add , if the bearing was meant to spin all the time , why didnt Toyota simply make our trucks with a self adjusting clutch therefore ruling out the shock load of the bearing starting to turn as the clutch is released ?
Engineering basics 101 here gentleman . The smart individuals will understand where I am coming from .
I am not going to beat a dead horse on this one . What is said is said , and its just a bearing that Toyota didnt leave enough room for proper adjustment and here is why .
Lets say there is a preload on your release bearing of 12 foot pounds when the truck comes from the factory .
As your clutch disc slowly wears down, that preload is going to multiply because the fingers on the pressure plate are constantly moving towards the release bearing . Your clutch pedal continues to get higher and higher until it doesnt release anymore and this is the hugest issue with 2nd gen Toyota manual transmission . There is a significant groove placed in the aluminum quill because the bearing spins all the time .
Believe what you want but that bearing is " NOT " designed to turn all the time in this application using a diaphram style clutch. I do not care if you called LUK clutches because I called them as well and they agreed with me . This is engineering 101
In the end , its just a bearing

 

I thought we had already settled this about the T/O bearing spinning all the time the engine is running. It does so by design. There is a push-type spring in the slave cylinders of both the 5-speeds and the 6-speeds that pushes the fork forward on its pivot to preload the bearing against the fingers of the pressure plate and the bearing spins full time. The spring seems to have a preload force I guesstimated to be about 8 or 10 pounds, maybe more. Short of taking out the spring and pulling the fork in the opposite direction with a pull-type spring there is nothing you can do to stop the full time spinning. I have directly observed the T/O contact against the pressure plate and bearing spinning full time on both my 5 speed and 6 speed Tacos.

 

Mean while I am still with the chirping at 84K for the past 30K miles.. some dude has been in the forum has been chirping for the past 200K miles and has done nothing about it and he still has no problems. I've learned to ignore the chirp and at times it even goes quiet for weeks at a time. What baffles me is how the sound can come and go? It seems to be at loudest in the winter.. but for periods of time the chirp goes away. I'm hoping that the chirping is not actually doing damage and hope to get 200K plus on the truck

 

Have a look at the picture on page 5 of this thread. Do you feel lucky...? The TOB wobbles due to lack of preload...sometimes it squeaks sometimes it doesn't. Here's your bet... $15 in parts or possibly a major, expensive clutch and possibly transmission repair. Your choice.

Taco '09 thanks again for your post, GC is on the warpath again that the TOB's don't always turn.

Richiep, to more clearly comment on your post what you did was push the master cylinder piston past the reservoir port. This keeps the fluid in the master/slave cylinders under pressure and preloads the TOB in that way. If in time you have any fluid loss by leakage from this closed system you'll have trouble disengaging the clutch. That might have been the reason for your 2/3 shift problems.

 

Here is a better TOB design.

http://urdusa.com/store/p1260519431/URD-FIX-U-Hydro-Bearing-Conversion-Kit-"The-FIX"/product_info.html

 

@gearcruncher , I was looking through your other thread, and found that the link to the URD sleeve kit is not longer valid. Although still available on their site, the link brings you to an error page on their site.

Also, years ago, that sleeve kit was found by a member on XRU. I didn't frequent here. It wasn't a month or so which past, and URD had a contract with them and was selling the kit. As a sort of one stop shop. Still retains the same picture between the two companies even.

 

It was just brought to my attention that the link doesn't work. For some reason, the open quotations, splits the link. Copy and paste the whole link in your browser. Then it will work.

 

You replaced the tranny? How is that comforting

 

The tranny was grinding between 2nd & 3rd! had nothing to do with clutch pedal adjustment!
you can look up the TSB for that!

 

Just to be clear, I adjusted the pedal slightly & the chirp went away, I had no issues for 160,000 miles. The shift issue was there before I adjusted the pedal. I replaced the tranny at 200,000 miles along with the clutch & throw out bearing. The clutch & flywheel were in great shape!
Toyota's new throw out bearing seams to be much better, 35,000 miles, no preload, no chirp!

I just wanted people to know my experience, it worked for me.
I'm not looking to argue or convince anybody to do this.

 

'm convinced the PRD kit is the way to go, I'm so sick of the dang noise I want it fixed for good and the right way. There are so many threads on here about this problem, I wish everyone knew about this easy and relatively inexpensive fix

 

If you consider $500 and trans out easy and inexpensive then go for it. I consider a few bucks and 1 hour easy and inexpensive.

 

I thought all these guys were saying it was more like $200?
My truck has 65k on it so I would wait until it was time to replace the clutch to make it worth while

 

http://urdusa.com/store/Trans,-Clutch-and-Flywheels-Throw-Out-Bearings/c178_236/index.html

$225 for the sleeve kit. $125 for the replacement bearing, for that kit. $499 for the Hydro replacement bearing.