GROUP BUY Cam gears for V6 1GR.

GROUP BUY 4 OPEN
When/if we hit ~10 people in the GB, I'll get to work and make it happen.

Group 1 closed
Group 2 closed

Group buy 3- CLOSED
@Xringer07 sent
@KPHTH77sent
@Iceman710sent
@MightyMouseTomsent
@zaitsev77sent
@jtgowan7sent
@Miller507sent
@Mech_Engsent
@dany0sent
@Cwilliams563sent
@JBCjr 2 sets sent
@D-Bagsent
@conchubharsent
@ToyotaDriversent
@MuddySquirrel sent

GROUP BUY 4 OPEN, 1 SPOT LEFT
@mav paid
@jack_thomaspm sent
@AKTacoPartypaid
@TacoBeng8paid
@oakcitypaid
Jacob B (Facebook)paid
@rmepilotpaid
@Biscuitspaid
@MarianasTacopaid
@rideexileex paid


Hey guys- Want more usable power AND better gas mileage? Then this is what you want. Intakes and exhaust are cool/easy to do and all but if you're willing to dive a little deeper- You'll find these work better than both. NOT snake oil either as many here have tried these over the years. Read some of the reviews posted here if you're still hesitant. I personally have been machining these gears with a 2nd keyway cut into them (300+ sold!) . The 2nd keyway has 3° of retard cut into it. These work with all the 1GRFE (V6) engines. That's 05-15 Tacomas, some 4runners and some Tundras.
Tuning to maximize the gains associated with this mod is recommended but not necessary. (just like an intake or exhaust)

Current cost is $120.
To order just shoot me a PM and I'll fill you in on the details.

If you want to provide your own gears- price is $90 for the machining (includes both gears and includes the return shipping nation wide.)
OEM part # 13523-AD010
Cloyes part # S960T
Napa part # NTP S960T
They don't come in sets so make sure to purchase two if going this route
No longer accepting used gears. The tolerances varied slightly (naturally) from new gears and hence I always had to recalibrate on a gear to gear basis. Not to mention they usually showed up covered in burnt on oil.



If you are active military or a veteran- 10$ off.
Simply mention it in your PM to me to receive discount (honor system)


For those wondering what exactly these do.
"The exhaust cam gears retard the exhaust gear timing by 3° in relation to crank angle. Allowing the cylinders to empty more completely on the exhaust stroke. On the intake stroke the cylinders will fill with more air and fuel increasing the overall volumetric efficiency of the engine. There will also be less hot exhaust gas left heating the incoming air and fuel and reducing it's knock potential. This is very advantageous with forced induction conversions." -URD

Myself and many others are now running these gears with great success. It increased my mileage and has notably more power in the low to mid rpm range. Plus the engine just runs happier. Before and after datalogs showed an increase in knock threshold (tables located on a page 2)

Big thanks to @nd4spdbh for doing a before and after of his MAF numbers with no other changes made at the time. About a 5% measured increase across the rpm range. MAF numbers are proven to directly relate to actual Horsepower (MAF * 1.18 = ~HP for our engines)

Orange line = after install of 3* cam gears
Blue line = stock cam gears
Bottom axis = engine rpms
Left axis = MAF reading in lbs/hr

Here is an install video.
https://youtu.be/YmwXtpukhFU


Here is a link for valve cover removal instructions. (Pre 2012 models)
http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?p=186857


here is the pdf install instructions from URD
https://www.tacomaworld.com/attachments/urd-1gr-cam-gear-installation-v-1-1-draft-pdf.3283622/

Instead of taking the time to put a timing mark in relation to the new keyway that is 3° off, what I do is only bevel the new keyway on the back side so that it is clear which keyway is the one I made and to show which way should be facing front. When installing the gear, if you can only see one bevel, then it is facing the correct way. (see below) 3° keyway at bottom

"F" for front. Gears sent out wont have this "F" so bevel observation will be required. I recommend drawing with a marker or whiteout etc. a line to the tooth that is most closely aligns to. This will aid with install.





This is the back of the gear. The side that will face the engine. Here you can see the bevel I did which also aids with install as it'll help guide the gears onto the cams. I'm keeping tolerances as tight as possible so you will have to wiggle them a bit to get them on.
UPDATE- Trialing not doing the bevel anymore starting with GB3. This saves me machining time to allow me to keep costs down as well as making for a stronger gear overall (less material removed) Gears moving forward will be marked "F" for front with a paint marker



Here is the stock gear with the keyway facing up (yellow arrows). If you look closely at the chain itself, you can see a link on the backside that is painted orange from the factory (under blue arrow). The orange chain link is from the factory and wont align perfectly with the keyway with every turn of the crank so you might have to turn the engine over by hand a few times to get this orientation. Once in this orientation, the chain is already marked for you for which link the newly marked keyway/tooth will go into.





Here is the re-machined gear installed. 2nd bevel not visible so its in correct orientation. You can see that the new keyway and its closet aligned tooth is right back in on the orange link (marked in red here) After you get this done on both engine banks- you're done and can start re-assembly.

Replacement Gasket part numbers:

• Right (passenger) Valve cover gasket - 11213-AD010
• Left (driver) Valve cover gasket - 11214-AD010
• Surge tank (upper intake) to lower intake plenum gasket - 17176-0P030
• Throttle Body Gasket -
  22271-0P010 Fuel Injection Throttle Body Mounting Gasket
  22271-0P010
• For those who are 2012+ and have the SAIS . The gaskets for the tubes onto the valve assembly are Part number 17377-31010. You'll need 2

Torque values:

• Cam Bolts - 74 ftlb
• No.2/3 Chain Tensioner Assembly bolt - 14 ftlb
• Valve Cover
  • Outer Bolts (7x short) - 7.4 ftlb (88.8 inlb)
  • Outer Nuts (2x) - 80 inlb
  • Inner bolts (3x long) - 80 inlb
• Coil Pack bolts - 7.4 ftlb (88.8 inlb)
• Surge tank (aka Upper intake) to lower intake (2 nuts, 4 bolts) - 21 ftlb
• Surge tank stays / throttle body bracket bolts - 15 ftlb
• Throttle body bolts - 9 ftlb

Optional Stuffs:

• PCV Valve - 20 ftlb

different pdf link for urd install instructions ↓↓↓↓

 

Bump. +1 rep

 

+1
Solid work, fast turn around.

 

Loving mine, crazy fast work too.

 

+1 can't wait to receive mine. Be mindful when ordering your own gears, it will take time. It seems we've exhausted some sources of gears from different vendors already with just our small run of 30 orders.

 

Da Man

 

Awesome product, excellent customer service, fast turnaround! Thanks Kelby!

 

Awesome job, GLWS Kelby

 

9 sets of gears out the door . who's in for the next batch? PM's with tracking numbers coming to those 9.

 

Next batch is in. Machining these Wednesday night and shipping Thursday.

 

Daaaaaaaaaayum! Going to help a friend install his set.

 

Can I be said friend.

 

Teleport you and your truck.

 

I need a Camry with a good tow package.

 

Just received mine today. Awesome product and service. Thank you sir!

 

Any dyno testing to see what kind of numbers these things will add? Seems like a cool product.

 

A cam gear only before and after dyno test has never been performed to my knowledge. @Torspd have you seen or heard if its been done? Urd has them in the kits they sell and they have full bolt (including these) dynos vs before numbers. Only numbers I can speak to are improved gas mileage, improved "butt dyno" and better driveability.

 

You also have a datalog of better knock threshold. Which allows more timing. Which makes more HP.

There are no dyno's yet, with just a cam gear install. Only your datalogs.