Guys with solar

So can I run a solar charger, controller, panel and extra battery to run led lights? All the new electronics are putting more strain on car batteries. I’m curious if I could run a solar setup as auxiliary for added lights etc?

 

I am also curious about the hookup with an extra battery. Having extra lights and a winch, the extra battery is nice. The comfort of being able to kick in the second battery for jumps starts is nice too.

I am thinking for my needs, solar would be a part time option. As in, daily driving just the alternator charging both batteries. But long weekend camping trips, break out a couple of portable solar panels tether them together and hook up to the vehicle system with a couple Anderson plug and use the 120 outlet in the bed. Is this even possible, and if so, is it worth the effort?

Or would a completely separate system just for camping be a better option. I wouldn't be tying to light a small town. just a portable chilling unit for food, a radio, maybe one or two 60 watt bulbs at night for a few hours.

 

This is pretty much what people do. The 60 watt bulbs however isn’t really a good route. LEDs are much more efficient.

 

LED over incandescent yes. More of showing my age when describing lighting scenarios.

 

@medic2230 @gixxerphil @Toyotacrawler

 

No it is attached to the windshield.

 

Correct. That is what I’m doing. My starting battery is only hooked up to the starter and Alternator. My aux is hooked up to everything else, including my solar panel. If both of my batteries is over 12.7v the alternator/solar charges both at once via the ML-ACR. So yes when the engine is running or when there is sunlight both batteries are charging.

 

At first I ordered a 100w Renogy to mount on my Prinsu, but ended up getting a Zamp solar suitcase instead. Reason is so that I can setup my trailer as basecamp and move the solar panels vs moving the truck/trailer towards the sun.

Here’s a pic of the setup sans sun...

 

Makes sense. I’ve been thinking about how I might put my panel on a swivel to do this.

 

don’t have pics atm. renogy 150w panel. 40a mppt controller. 2x optima group27 if i recall 150ah. running isolated from truck been running snowmaster 61l fridge for 8 months continuously

 

These are pretty spendy, but I use it on the boat in the summer to keep the battery charged, and I can take it on the trailer if I need to...

https://californiapc.com/Portable-S...olar-Foldable-Solar-Chargers/FM16-5400_2.html

 

Very nice setups in here everyone! I’m looking at going portable with the Jackery 200W setup and portable 50W panel.

$219 Jackery Portable Power Station Explorer 240, 240Wh Backup Lithium Battery, 110V/200W Pure Sine Wave AC Outlet, Solar Generator for Outdoors Camping Travelling and Emergencies. (Solar Panel Separate)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D29QNMJ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AZF6YB7UVA7OU&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07D2CD4H6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=AZF6YB7UVA7OU&psc=1

Seems perfect for running a Dometic or small cooler in addition to tablets for the kids etc.

 

Looks great! A little off topic but I saw that Dometic also came out with a power pack to run refrigerators as well. Not sure if it can be charged by solar though.

 

Nice! The portability of the Jackery looks interesting, and the fact you can add panels and modulation looks awesome.

 

I have a fuse box in my bed that is wired straight to the battery with a 4 gauge wire but grounded to a rear bumper bolt instead of the battery. I am wondering if I could connect my charge controller to that or if it needs to have the negative actually going to the battery. Thoughts?

 

I’m no expert on electrical, but think this isn’t a good way to go. I would def wire both neg and pos directly to battery. I’m sure someone with more knowledge can delve into the why and how of this.

 

I tend to agree with you but figured Id see if anybody would give me an excuse to be lazy. I may just run another long 4 gauge up there for a ground and then my solar wire set up would never have to leave the camper shell.

 

Power from the controller needs to go directly to the battery it is charging.

 

Throw a pic when you can

 

Ill take one this evening. The basic gist is that I have a 4 gauge from the secondary battery to a fuse box in the bed for camping and general needs in the bed and currently I have a 4 gauge ground that is going to the frame. I can replace the 4 gauge to the frame with one also to the battery and that would fix the issue I believe so that I could go from the charge controller to the fuse box in the bed.