H0H-Crankshaft Position Sensor recall

I'm wondering if the EMC might not be calculating correct load maps with premium. Could still getting bad sensor data somewhere or in the tune...
Does turning on/off other load items(a/c) have any effect on steering?

 

Nope, try with / without A/C, etc., no difference. Seems to feel the best with mid-grade, regular vibrates too much, mid grade is less vibes and smoother steering. I have no doubt there are other suspect sensors - but I'll get it back on mid-grade and get some fresh readings. I used to get better mileage on premium vs. lower grades before replacing my CKP and that is no longer the case (as it should be).

It still holds around 20 commuting and 18-19 highway 75mph driving.

 

Toyota is full of "conjecture" about its info it gives in customers... Toyota is still a cluster fuck to deal with "we cant duplicate it" "That's normal operation" "No sir your diff is not leaking wait but what is this fluid here that's diff gear oil from your rear diff but you just told me it's not leaking here is your keys" etc: complete bullshit!

I even asked the service manager whats the purpose of a gaskets or seal and he could not answer that question.....

 

Here's some data from this AM in case you can make better sense of it...

Clearly ignition timing is way low - and it wasn't like this last week. Hard to determine whether due to the fuel or "new" CKP at the moment though...

 

So crying to others on an Internet forum helps?

Go to another dealer.

 

I just opened the CPS recall letter I got last week or so to see if there’s some type of mileage or expiration date and I found non as expected since it’s labeled as a safety recall, good call!

I do have some concerns and skepticism as to the root cause, and since mine is a replacement that is working flawlessly, and I’d hate to get a “new” defective one or have them clear my perfectly working engine performance parameters, never to be the same again.
The replacement procedure calls for clearing DTC(s) not ecm learn drive data from what I can see in the instructions, so in my case I would insist they not clear the ecm but what the tech does or will do is beyond my control until I drive it and find it learning all over again for 1500 miles ugh!

My thought right now would be if I could keep the current one (with the old 89#) I’d let them change as I could always put it back if things don’t work out, but that’s not likely to happen.
I’m therefore thinking I’ll order the new one and install it myself if ever I need it, its worth it to me not spending that time at the stealership anyway.

Another thought that’s crossed my mind is that if the replaced one is working perfectly well for me, and many thousands of others, why doesn’t the repair procedure call for cleaning or inspecting the flex plate AKA ring-gear?.

It seems to me that as in most engines, if you remove the stater, one can usually see thru the small opening the condition of the said flex-plate\ring-gear and think one could clean it with some type approved solvent to remove said over-spray causing the problem, if that’s really the issue, but at this point idk and the explanation doesn’t make much sense to me.

But what I do know is, I won’t loose any sleep over this and will sleep on it after I get a second notice because by that time, the parts and procedure expertise ought to be abundant and common.

Sleep well my friends!
Cheers!

 

I have and get the same bullshit! It really seems as if Toyota is full of Bullshit!

Any Professional person that represents the Manufacture and the dealer should say it looks like an issue let me see what can be done and work on the customers behalf to make it right. I have been too 4 dealers in my area of Northern VA with the same results just bullshit.

 

Yet others get resolution on weeping / leaking diffs so some dealerships might be the problem.

That's where you go to the service manager and up to GM or regional rep. Take pictures and document, ask them to define the difference between a leak, seep or weep and what's the purpose of a gasket. You can also send that information to other dealers until you get one that responds.

But you have to know how to approach it so it's not advisarial, recommend not using the phrase "Toyota bullshit" when you solicit help.

 

And my one dealership tells me if I have any issue, bring it in immediately. They check for things I haven't asked for them to investigate because I have a good relationship with them.

 

I have been nothing but patient with these dealers and service managers well within reason as I have pictures and total documentation. I have a meeting with my selling dealer about this to see if they can get anything resolved I should not have to dealer shop for repairs on something that is clearly a warranty issue plain and simple!

I even had one service manager tell you didn't even by your Truck here and you want me to go to bat for you....

 

Good for you! I clearly would have a great relationship if I didn't get the bullshit run around.

Toyota has lost focus of the customer!

 

Yes you should not have to dealer shop but unfortunately it's a necessary evil. I queried 7 dealerships in my region before I pulled the trigger in both sales and maintenance. I even have one 3 miles from my house but I drive 10 miles to the "good one" because of that relationship.

They know I go out of my way to use them, they go out of their way to keep me coming back.

 

I as well shopped 6 dealers in my area for sales and service but getting back the one I purchased at is very difficult at times and many times requires hours of time. I have 5 dealers within 8/12 miles of my house but yet I have to go to one that's almost 33 miles away for Warranty service is absolutely insane.

 

Remember this experience then when you get rid of the truck. If you don't like it, don't go back to Toyota.

Toyota has never been known for great customer service because the trucks and cars sold themselves. Most of the time there's no issue but when there is you want to make sure you have a dealer with a decent service dept. When you find one you keep going back to that one.

It's worked for me in 30+ years of driving toyota trucks but then I'm used to cross shopping dealers regularly.

 

Hell your're in VA what dealer is this maybe I can see if they would fix the issues if within a reasonable drive?

 

Checkered Flag in VA Beach. McGeorge in Richmond isn't too bad either but CF has been superb.

 

This is my 5 Tacoma 87,91,97,14 and this 17 is the only one I have every had issues with along with getting Warranty work done....

 

That's not happening

 

Then dump it, used car salesmen love selling used Tacomas so you can cut your losses and move on from the aggrevation.

 

I felt like you for 3-4k miles after replacing with my "89" in terms of shifting appropriately and pretty good throttle response, but within the last 2 weeks the shift points were slowly getting shorter and shorter resulting in the delayed downshifts and consequential bogging. I really felt like it was good to go and I'd be in great shape, finally after months of aggravation. Either relearned bad behavior after driving several thousand miles driving great or the replacement CKP was slowly succumbing to the same issues (when I removed to replace w/ the "98" there was some residue on it (dried like a light white flaky stuff - not a lot but it's there). Never got as bad as it did with my stock/factory CKP, but it was definitely degrading from the "WOW!" I felt driving it after replacing with the new "89" part.

I wonder what would be safe to "clean" these CKPs with? Perhaps just needs to become part of regular maintenance if indeed it's from residue vs. the gap... but per your comments it's really hard to tell what the true problem is based on the documentation Toyota has produced.