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H1 led bulbs

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by deathpunch8210, Feb 20, 2020.

  1. Feb 20, 2020 at 6:14 PM
    #1
    deathpunch8210

    deathpunch8210 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys I've got a set of eagle eyes headlights and I'm having trouble finding a h1 led bulb to fit in the housing. Anybody running them and have any suggestions? Thanks in advance
     
  2. Feb 20, 2020 at 8:46 PM
    #2
    Greenedmc

    Greenedmc Well-Known Member

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    Are these gonna be for lowbeam or high beam? Or just a drl. As far as visibility is concerned you’d probably be better off with halogen.. I tried led headlight bulbs from auxbeam and they were awful

    (and hello from Spruce pine just btw Lol)
     
  3. Feb 20, 2020 at 8:51 PM
    #3
    El Duderino

    El Duderino Obviously, you're not a golfer.

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    Stuff, things, this, an ADS
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  4. Feb 20, 2020 at 8:56 PM
    #4
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    LEDs perform very poorly in smaller housings like an H1. You will have a significant lack of focus and major loss of distance projection. An LED will perform worse than stock. Instead I would suggest Osram Nightbreaker Laser +150, which is the highest efficiency H1 halogen on the market and perform significantly better than stock.

    Edit: I should add aftermarket housings have very poor optics to start with and are a significant downgrade from stock. Unfortunately a good bulb cannot fix a bad headlight, and Eagle Eyes headlights would be a bad headlight.
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2020
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  5. Feb 21, 2020 at 4:52 AM
    #5
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    If set on LED though, the Hikari Ultras are the only one I’ve tested in an OEM 3rd Gen H11 projector that tested better than a stock bulb. However they were easily outperformed by a performance halogen. While you are using a poor quality projector and won’t get the same results, and running an H1 vs H11, you might consider these:

    HIKARI Ultra LED Headlight Bulbs Conversion Kit -H1, Prime LED 12000lm 6K Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R8D3MJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Oc9tEbV8Y8W2E
     
  6. Feb 21, 2020 at 5:46 AM
    #6
    TacoFergie

    TacoFergie Well-Known Member

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    Depends on the money and effort you want to put into it. Halogen H1 would be your best bet. An H1 HID would be brighter BUT you would more than likely "burn" the bowl over time as they aren't designed for that. However no matter how "powerful" of a bulb you put in, you can't change the poor projector design so the output will still be bad.

    Your BEST solution is this.... Do a proper retrofit. They will more than double your output (including any PNP LED out there), more even light distribution and being that its a bi-xenon it will add an amazing high beam. The links below are for brackets to allow you to bolt in new HID projectors also listed below. The process is simple. Remove headlights from truck, bake at 220F 10-15 min, remove the lens, remove projector, install new projector with bracket, re-install the lens by inserting it back in the oven, wire up the ballasts with the included harness, re-install headlights back in the truck and re-aim as needed. There are tons of tutorials on youtube from lightwerkz and others, even tacoma specific.

    If you are on facebook, checkout a page called "HEADLIGHT JUNKIES". Lots of amazing info in there.

    This is the Projector Retrofit kit. ($192 with options, but sales happen often usually in the 15-20% off range) Make sure you include an H4 harness and headlight sealant in black. No need to get the high beam splitter or molex connectors that are in the options. DO NOT GET 50 WATT BALLASTS!!!!! Absolutely no point and it WILL "burn" the bowl quickly!! Maybe within a year.

    https://www.lightwerkz.net/index.ph...ts/universal-kit/bi-xenon-h1-starter-kit.html

    These brackets are optional but make the job literally a swap with no fabrication and no chance in having the rotation of the projector off.

    https://custom-brackets-designs.mys...oducts/spyder-mini-h1-retrofit-7-0-c-brackets
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2020
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  7. Feb 21, 2020 at 5:55 AM
    #7
    TacoFergie

    TacoFergie Well-Known Member

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    This is my beater Subaru with that kit and 5500k bulbs. 5500k is the highest kelvin rating you want to go, any higher the color is too blue/dark to work well in poor weather. Also the higher you go in the kelvin rating the lower lumen output you have. 4500k would be best, but most like a little whiter light for style points. Granted this is a cell phone picture, keep that in mind.

    LOW BEAM
    62C5B263-B97C-4404-9FC3-9C89459F13C2.jpg

    HIGH BEAM
    969F64A3-3E2F-4ED0-8FB1-570CD1DCE3D1.jpg
     
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  8. Feb 21, 2020 at 6:39 AM
    #8
    Jacked Burton

    Jacked Burton Well-Known Member

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    I've got a pair of H1 Morimoto 2stroke 2.0 led and a pair of F2 H1 led's (same as Supernova v4) that I would be willing to let go of now that I'm running HIDs.
    They were a yuge upgrade over the stock bulbs.

    Definitely don't do a higher power halogen in a Spyder housing.
    I had to learn the hard way and melted a pair.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2020
  9. Feb 21, 2020 at 9:42 AM
    #9
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    OP for clarity the Osram NightBreaker Laser +150 are not higher power, they are stock wattage, they are high efficiency. They won’t melt anything. Using a 100w H1 on the other hand is likely what is being referred to above.
     
  10. Mar 3, 2020 at 6:28 AM
    #10
    SKV11000

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    Do you recommend these for the Spyder housings?

    Thnx
     
  11. Mar 3, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    #11
    jkuniverse

    jkuniverse Well-Known Member

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    I’m with @TacoFergie on Retrofits. I recently did Morimoto D2S retrofits and it is truly a night n day difference. One of the best mods
     
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  12. Mar 3, 2020 at 11:24 AM
    #12
    TacoFergie

    TacoFergie Well-Known Member

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    Pun intended?? hahaha
     
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  13. Mar 3, 2020 at 12:35 PM
    #13
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    It would be worth trying for improving output, but you're going to be severely limited by your housing as the optics are poor. The bulbs work by increasing focus, and if your headlights have poor focus like Spyder, it doesn't help to the same effect as it does in an OEM housing. I wouldn't recommend Spyder housings.

    As an analogy, your OEM headlights are like a precision rifle, to focus light an project it over great distance. The high efficiency bulbs (Nightbreakers) are like an improved rifle round that is more accurate, allowing you to hit targets at even greater distances. Your precision rifle and improved rounds work together for the enhanced performance. By switching to Spyder you have traded in your rifle (OEM) for a musket (Spyder) and are attempting to use a more precise rifle round (Nightbreaker) to get better results from your musket.
     
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  14. Mar 4, 2020 at 6:36 AM
    #14
    SKV11000

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    So the story goes: I purchased my 2011 with the Spyder lights installed need to change/upgrade the lighting. I don't have the factory assemblies. I noticed that the retrofit sources has quick-kits that can update the Spyder lights to better quality projectors. Has anyone given these a shot?
     
  15. Mar 4, 2020 at 6:55 AM
    #15
    TacoFergie

    TacoFergie Well-Known Member

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    Checkout "Headlight Junkies" on facebook. Do a search on there (spyder or tacoma) and you may find the answer there. I haven't personally done a retrofit on Spyder headlights but it from posts I have seen about the swap, it is straight forward. The performance of the H1 HID projector (whether it's the morimoto, nhk or acme) will be a very nice upgrade! Once you have the headlight removed and lens off it's as simple as unbolting the old projector, installing the bracket, new projector, reseal the headlight, install back on the truck and wire up the included wiring harness and ballasts.
     
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  16. Mar 4, 2020 at 7:46 AM
    #16
    Wattapunk

    Wattapunk Stay lifted my friends !

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    I recently replaced the halogen H1 bulbs on my spyder HL with Philip's crystal vision ultra bulbs it was an improvement with the whiter light.

    20200303_192015.jpg
    20200303_181905.jpg

    20200303_191652.jpg
     
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  17. Mar 4, 2020 at 10:31 PM
    #17
    SKV11000

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  18. Mar 4, 2020 at 10:41 PM
    #18
    crashnburn80

    crashnburn80 Vehicle Design Engineer

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    Note that the Philips Crystal vision bulbs mentioned above have a blue coating. Blue coatings reduce output to usually less than stock, though the light is whiter. They are not recommended for improved output.
     
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  19. Mar 5, 2020 at 3:20 AM
    #19
    jboudreaux1965

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    Are, just use HID. To this day I still can not for the life of me figure out why so many people put so much time and effort into a losing battle with LED's and Halogens.


    No matter what you do, you will never get brighter than using H4-4 Dual HID in headlights and HID bulbs in fog lights. The only kinda drawback is running 6 ballasts and relays, but if you wire it right you only have to do it once.
     
  20. Mar 5, 2020 at 5:07 AM
    #20
    TacoFergie

    TacoFergie Well-Known Member

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    I'm confused on what an H4-4 Dual HID is. I have seen H4 HID bulbs that moves a small shield to expose the bottom of the bulb to activate the high beam, but that is the only H4 HID bulb I am aware of. Also if you have PNP H4 HID kit in the OEM housings, chances are there is a lot of glare to oncoming traffic and sub-par output in down the road lighting, probably lights up signs very well though.

    I agree with the LED comment. But High Performance Halogens can be had for minimal $$$ but with very good output (assuming the optics are worth a darn) and less fatiguing color to the eyes for all weather conditions.

    This BEST thing to do for this individual in this case is to retrofit the current headlights he has since he does not have the OEM housings and OEM housings cost considerably more that just doing a retrofit. Also the OP may want to keep the current headlights because they like the style, even if budget wasn't an issue.
     

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