Ham fisted mechanics and skid plates

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/chin-spoiler-helps-with-cooling-yes-no.629669/

Post 5 I believe

 

First of all, the "skid" you talk about covers the oil filter housing, not the engine. Vacuum extractor or not, the mechanic still needs to remove the skid to replace the filter.

The skid attaches to two removable braces. Each brace is bolted to the frame with 3-4 bolts. It's a simple matter to replace them. P/Ns are 5140304020 and 5140404020. The braces are removed for installing aftermarket skids from Relentless, All-Pro, RCI, etc. They're carryover from 2nd gens so plenty of used ones around.

 

That would be awesome. Thanks!

 

I am not so sure it would be such a good idea to let the guys at the shop attempt to fix what they already tore up.

 

Thanks... I think I'd have to pass on that one. Looks a bit funky.

 

I agree. More than a bit. But it has been done. Just make your own access panel

 

Oh I have the trd pro skid. Apparently they couldn't get the oil filter cover off and snapped two hex keys.

The issue came.when they took the plate off to.do the oil change and out it back.in they screwed the bolts.on with an impact instead of starting by hand. One fell out the other they broke the nut free or whatever it is that holds it in place.

I'll get under here shortly once this arctic deep freeze goes through and it is not -35c outside

 

Oh no doubt. It's obvious when you see them.

To be honest I have not.met to many good mechanics either. They seem to be few and far btw.

Steve

 

I'd be livid. That's such a bummer.

 

I had the same thing happen. This is how mine was left. The funny thing is that I saw the tech do it and on the way home the skid started to rattle really bad. I called the service manager and they replaced the 4 bolts and re threaded the one that was crossed. As soon as I got home I removed it and made sure it threaded back on easily.

 

What a bunch of monkeys. If it were me, I would re-tap if possible. If it's a rivnut, R and R or consider welding a new, real nut in place of the rivnut if you can do that. If it's a real nut and won't re-tap, helicoil it.
I'm sure these monkeys just drove the bolt in without starting it first... nice.

 

Talking with a few buddies of mine, apparently this is quite common of an issue. And not just in Canada.

Anyways, I'll get it addressed when j get my new skids and maybe a lighter weight bumper.

Steve

 

Happened to me too on an OR. I just put in a pro skid which uses different bolts and no more worries for me. Not going back to stock.

 

Mine currently is the pro.

 

probably be a good idea to anti seize or lube them screws/bolts so they wont rust up again and cause the same issue

 

Any thoughts on removing the skid plate at home before taking it in for an oil change?

 

those screws for the skid plates develop rust on the threads and become seized in the bolt that's welded on the rail underneath and become a real pain in the ass, all 4 of mine broke off. usually the mechanics don't retap and fix the screws they busted or want an added charge to do it

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anjDQJtWFc8

Another option, if you want to use the same hardware and dont mind the expense, is to install a Helicoil or Timesert. I have used the latter to repair stripped threads in aluminum and they are awesome.

Finding a good mechanic is a lot like finding a good contractor/handyman. For every competent, hardworking individual, there are about 50 fucking dipshits. They key is to do your research first, but even then it can be a mixed bag. I can understand if you want nothing to do with the shop that is responsible. I would absolutely refuse any repairs they offer. However, a full refund for your service would not be a bad outcome. Don't forget to write a few reviews and do your part to save someone else from the same fate.

 

I sure did!

 

I will be. I am just taking advantage of the free maintenance for the time being haha