Harrop E Locker...anyone running it?

Shuuuuush. I want to surprise people.....

 

What size gears do you go with?

 

I'm doing 4:88s in a 2.7l auto trans with 265/75-16s.

 

Finally tested the Eaton/Harrop locker up in the Sierras. Paired with 4.88s it was unstoppable, even while dragging a trailer. The engagement is far better over my 2007’s Toyota locker.

 

Are you planning on upsizing your tires? How is the gearing matching up right now with the 265/75?

 

No, I'm planning on keeping my current tire size. The gearing right now is debilitatingly high with the auto and the mud tires.
If for some reason it becomes way under geared, which I'm confident it won't, I would then go up in size.

 

So jumping in here as I just finished my 5.29 with lockers install,ARB thou. I have a sport 4x4 and was thinking about switching the decals to the TRD Sport just to mess with people on the trails. I thought about it for like 2 minutes and moved on. Your post reminded me about it.

 

Mine is a white, base model - regular cab. Lockers are totally unexpected...

 

Man a regular cab with lockers is a total jeep killer. Can’t wait to see one on Marlin’s HD system.

 

Whoa.
We installed the third members last night and today. My mechanic friend made child's play of the whole job, with my help of course. I'm freakin' delighted.
The sway bar got deleted for fun too. That helped. There's so much less harshness just pulling into the driveway. The trails are going to be a lot friendlier.
The gearing is noticeably better immediately as well. I can't wait to finish the break-in and dial the E-locker wiring.
Shits getting real. Just in time for my 50k service...

THANK YOU Tacoma World!

 

Lemme know when you come TDY to Fort Worth and we'll do mine.

I want 35's and lockers.

...and maybe 4.56's? 6020lbs that needs to go 80+ mph.

 

I’ll be coming through at least once on my drive through with the U-Haul. Maybe twice to get CB Adventure Supply to chuck an Alu-Cab canopy on the truck.

 

Can anybody give me some guidance on installing the locker switches?
That's not my forte and I can't seem to find anything informative enough.

Thanks!

 

The supplied wire harness is fairly straight forward, the fuse box is under the driver side dash, a good grounding location for the switch is the brake pedal bracket to the steel firewall. One of the long dummy switches will pop out of the dash on the left and the opening will require a small amount of careful dremelling to fit the Eaton/Harrop switch. The wires to the rear axle should be mounted straight down the driver fender, along the top of the frame rail, and across to the rear cross member just forward of the spare tire. Run this down to the axle, leaving about 8” of extra service loop for articulation and rear suspension travel to avoid ripping the wires out of the rear diff. The engine bay has two holes on the driver side fender perfect for a small piece of 90 degree aluminum bracket (home depot). Drill holes in the aluminum angle to to mount the relay and manual breaker reset. Red wire to battery positive, black to fender ground. E locker switch wires routed through the rubber firewall grommet. The fuse tap that says IGN doesn’t actually have to go into the ignition fuse position, it can go in the unfilled slot marked USB. The fuse box cover will not fit back on once the fuse tap is in place, toss it in your center console.

THE HARD PART: the two wires coming out of your rear diff need to be gently pulled through the connector with needle nose pliers, then silicone the bottom of the connector where the two wires enter and DON’T touch it again until the silicone dries, do not try to connect the main harness until the silicone dries over night. The two wire blades seem to back out when you connect the main harness which keeps the locker from engaging; the silicone keeps them from backing out.

 

Thank you for the info.
The main harness was installed and tested when we did the third members. I just need to do switches and wiring into the engine compartment.
Are you talking about the upper set of switch blanks or the lower?
I have 2 to install and I already used that grommet for my power amp. I'm considering moving it to the passenger side.

 

I just read your profile and realized which truck you have. I have a 2021 SR (picture below) but my old 2nd gen also had upper and lower blanks. Either will work.

 

What a great thread. Thank y'all for the information. I was on the fence between air lockers and e-lockers and this made my choice much easier. I'm definitely going with the e-lockers when I do the regear.

 

Easy decision, especially with threads like this new arb locker leaking thread. Wiring the Harrop is stupid easy and they supply all the wires, switches and relays.

 

Exactly what I was thinking. My one concern with the e-locker was the 1/4 turn of the wheels after seeing that Aussie video, but this thread resolved any concerns. Plus, the issues with the ARB leaks, piping and need to purchase the ARB compressor pretty much sealed the deal. Of course I'll have to purchase a small air compressor to re-inflate the tires, but that will be much cheaper than an ARB compressor.

 

I bought the switches that fit my switch blanks from ECGS. They seem cheaper than the Harrop ones and they use 4 wires instead of 3. That said, I think I'm good to go finally and should be able to try these things out this weekend.

I'm dying over here. This will be my first 4x4 with lockers.