Has anyone installed Infinity Kappa 682.11cf in 01-04 tacoma

Since I am installing sound deadener for road noice, I figure I may as well replace the speakers in all 4 doors. I am looking at the Infinity Kappa 682.11 cf for all 4 doors. The mounting depth is 2 3/8" (top mount)


1) will these fit (worried about mounting depth)
2) any experience with them? or are there other 6x8 / 5x 7 that you would recommend instead.

Price limit is $175 per set.

 

I've been running the Infinity Kappa 6.5 version of cf in the rear for 3 years, and running JL C5 components in the front for 1 year, powered by the Alpine PDX F4 (100x4). Head-unit crossovers are set at 80 Hz, 24 dB (any other lower setting causes a speaker resonance and lets in bass frequencies that sound they could damage the woofer at high volume -there is probably a better sweet spot in the 70 Hz range). The Kappa's produce a 'good' sound reproduction, but they could have been a little clearer. Midbass is rather neutral. They end up having that sound of everything playing at the same time, and the tweeter could have been a little brighter on its own without the help of an EQ. I wouldn't buy them again if I was building from scratch, but they were only $100. Construction wise, they have molded plastic baskets (they are rigid though) instead of stamped steel or some other type of metal. They are fine for people listening in the back seat - the driver won't be able to hear them that well.

If you are planning a medium to big stereo build, I always recommend stretching the budget for speakers and making sure to listen to them before purchasing. JL is still independent, American design, and not part of a conglomerate - and are great for SQ and don't really need auditioned (saving time). They do cost slightly more than they should though at all their levels.

 

Those are 2 ohm drivers. You'll probably kill a factory head unit with them...assuming that's your power since you didn't say otherwise.

Not much good stuff to choose from in a 5x7 unfortunately. Even less if using head unit power. Your options get MUCH better if you make/purchase some decent adapters and use round drivers. I'm getting away with a 6" driver with only an adapter. Any bigger and you'll need to cut the factory grille a bit inside the door card to get the flange to clear.

 

I will be adding a new head unit and a small 4 channel amp running a mere 45-60 RMS.
Down the road I plan on adding a small sub. Probably along the lines of the JL ACS110LG-TW1

Options to listen to speakers/units here in Sioux Falls are limited, especially if you are trying to get into anything bit to upper range.