Help! 3rd gen coolant

You can achieve a 50/50 mix. Drain and flush with 50/50 the whole time defeats the purpose of a drain and flush.

 

I think he's figured it out by now.

 

Honestly. I haven't. I must be missing something

 

People are over-thinking this.
Just follow the TSM... drain rad, drain block. I will say I also drained the external res (it has a drain).

Refill, warm up, top off.

You will never get all the coolant out.

Flushing is if you have a bunch of rust, dirt, gunk, etc., in the system... and yes you would end up with not a perfect 50/50 mix. Although one could see how much they drained, take the difference of the full amount it holds per TSB, and do math.

Or don't worry so much about it, and do regularly scheduled drain/fills.

 

Just changed the coolant on my '17 Tacoma 6cyl MT per the Toyota Car Care Nut's YT vidjeo.
Used less than a full gallon container of 00272-SLLC2.
The bleed screw on the lower passenger side was tubed up to the funnel, ran the engine at 2500 rpm's for a while and all the bubbles came out but still only used less than a gallon of the Toyota coolant.
Purchased 2 containers in preparation for the expectation of using most of both. What happened, did I screw something up?

 

The purpose of the distilled water flush is to dislodge any remaining coolant for the purpose of filling with new coolant (suppose you have a used vehicle and are unsure of the previous type of coolant used or the concentration of the mixture in the system). Then once you’ve got clear water flushing out of the rad or block you can refill with your choice of 50/50 mixture, run the engine and observe the concentration using a concentration tester. Since you’ve more than likely got more water than coolant in the system as you noted, you can always add more concentrate and bleed to achieve the desired mixture. But flushing with 50/50 is not only very expensive but won’t get old coolant out of your system. It will also more than likely result in a higher concentration of coolant than water, which isn’t always a bad thing but if you want to know what’s in your cooling system it gives you the chance to start fresh (ish).

I was pretty much asking why people don’t do this (universal method of flushing coolant from vehicles, both gasoline and diesel engines) instead of worrying about old coolant staying in the system when only draining the old coolant instead of flushing.

 

I see. Thanks for the write-up

 

I did my drain and fill at 5 1/2 years and 30,000 miles. I did one more step to the process. I chocked the front tires and jacked up the rear axle till the tires were just off the ground, then drained radiator and block drain. Then I dropped the rear back on the ground and jacked up front till the tires were just touching the ground, closed both drains then filled it back up. I was able to get 1 1/2 gallons of new Toyota SLLC coolant in the cooling system.

Robert

Make sure to top off system after driving truck!

 

I read this thread and there's a bit of "missing" information. Some great information too like the location of the engine block drain valve which was almost in the same place as my 3rg gen 4Runners. Also nice to have that procedure @splitbolt uploaded. But one thing missing was the exact reason WHY you change the coolant. Here's a great article on the WHY if you want to geek out a little. Also says why it's best to use the SLLC coolant, which you can infer from the article when talking about Ph.

https://www.autoserviceworld.com/carsmagazine/the-invisible-enemy/

Another thing kind of left out. When you are doing your flushes and drains, make sure your heat is on MAX to open the heater valve and allow the heater core and system to drain.

Lastly, I use my compressed air regulated down to about 10 psi and take a few hoses off to flush out the old coolant. Perfectly safe at that pressure as the operating pressure is right around that. Even then I'm not attaching air directly without a relief in some way. I've done this for over 30 years with no problems. I wont go into my entire process I had on my previous vehicles, especially since I didn't get a chance to flush the coolant out of some of them and also understanding not everyone has an air compressor and regulator, but when it came time I usually would find the flow diagram for the coolant system and go from there. I'm still 50K away on my '19, but when it comes due, I'll do my flush to get as much coolant out as I can, then completely fill with distilled water and run like that for a while, then completely flush that out again, then add in my 50/50 mix of SLLC. Probably wont be OEM, unless I can find it in a similar price range as the Zerex or one of the other high quality OE fluid names I can't think of right now.

If I didn't have an air compressor I would probably drain everthing out with the 2 drains, fill with distilled twice then drain and fill with SLLC.

 

Going to jump in here as I"m just about ready to do mine. 2017 2GR-FKS engine bought uses with 35K. Now with about 50K. For peace of mind.

So in the manual it says 100K then from then on every 50K or 60 months. I got to wondering why the change.
Here is my theory. Lots of comments about not getting all the old coolant out. Thats it, I think of why the change from 100K to 50k occurs
using Toyota coolant. Its totally fresh leaving the assembly line. After that its all downhill...