HELP asap with LR UCAs

no you dont need a grease gun clean it up ......i use some brake cleaner and theni pack the bj and boot with mobil 1

no

you want 0 toe "most important"
as close to 0 camber as you can get
and 2.4 -3.0 caster.....

 

Having the caster under 1 is that a problem? I think that's what he said. I'm still at work and can't see the paper

 

yes thats a problem......

 

FFS I'm not paying for it until its what I want. What does it mean anyways? Like how will I know when driving it?

 

^^this

needs to be over 2. It'll wander like that chopper bicycle you rode as a kid if set under 1

 

you will get wander at high speeds and be a pain in the ass to steer straight.

 

I'm going back to get them to fix it, should I worry about the .4 camber?

 

I wouldn't. Some guys are perfectionists around here, others are fine with higher. Mine is about that and I am not getting any unusual tire wear.

 

You need to tell them what numbers you want .

" in spec " is a wide range and doesn't necessarily apply to a lifted vehicle

Instead of all this back and forth , tell them what numbers you expect .

 

this

2.5 - 3 caster
0 camber
0 toe

 

Well here it is, not exactly what you guys said. But it drives fine I think

 

Why is caster so low still ?

 

I didnt get them to touch it anymore. I just left and didnt pay them. So I have to find someone now. So 100% I should be looking for 2.5-3 caster, 0 camber, and 0 toe right?

 

Thanks. Now to hunt for someone with half a brain and a full machine

 

Yes

 

I have on one of the sheets he had a 2.5 caster at one point and it was red. What the meaning behind this?

 

The proof is ultimately in the pudding. Take it up to 100km/hr and see how you like the steering.

 

That spec range is for unlifted trucks , you've changed the geometry

This is why you need to tell them what numbers you want