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Help choosing speakers and amp

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by XJBaylor, Oct 19, 2011.

  1. Oct 19, 2011 at 5:41 AM
    #1
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Plano, TX
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    King coilovers with remote reservoirs, Deaver 12 leaf pack with 5100's, TRD exhaust, Kenwood 6160, Anthracite Sport Wheels
    I am looking to replace and amp my front door speakers in my '06 DCLB. I have been out of the car audio game for a while, and haven't found as much good info online as I would have hoped. Maybe you guys can help.

    I listen to: Everything but metal and rap. I know that isn't helpful, sorry.

    I am running: Kenwood DNX-6160 head unit, no sub in my future, as I use all the storage spaces.

    I am looking for: Components or Coaxial speakers and 2-4 channel amp small enough to mount under the seat (Alpine MRP-F300 is a current front runner)

    I will spend: Under $500 for the speakers, amp, rings, and accessories. But the cheaper the better, I want the best bang for the buck. Not the best I can squeeze into my budget. I will install everything myself.

    I like: A full sounding speaker. My home theater runs Axiom Audio speakers, which are incredibly bright and accurate. This is not what I want for my car. I feel fatigued listening to bright speakers in a car. I want good midbass, and probably a non-metal tweeter.

    Misc: I really enjoy "boutique" brands. If there is an affordable option from a boutique brand (ID, Rainbow, etc.) that meets my criteria I would at least like to hear about it. Finally, I am still bouncing back and forth between amping a basic set of Coax speakers for the rear, or just running the stock speakers off the head unit. Any thoughts on that appreciated.
     
  2. Oct 19, 2011 at 5:49 AM
    #2
    Sport11

    Sport11 Well-Known Member

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    Matt
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    Look at crutchfield.com that is where I buy all my audio equipment. They include everything necessary to install the new speakers and give you detailed instructions for removing door panels. As far as sound goes, everyone likes different things in music and each speaker sounds differently for individuals, so what sounds good to one ear may sound like crap to someone else. I have used pioneer's, kenwood's, infinity's, and many other speakers and they all sounded better than the stock speakers.
     
  3. Oct 19, 2011 at 1:06 PM
    #3
    lbridges

    lbridges Well-Known Member

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    For $500, I suggest Hybrid Audio for front speakers ($250), maybe a Vibe Audio GH class amp ($140 at Sonicelectronix), and a set of adapter plates and some wiring.

    Leave the rear speakers on head unit power, but turn them off except for when there's a passenger complaining they can't hear back there.
     
  4. Oct 19, 2011 at 1:39 PM
    #4
    mattg43

    mattg43 Well-Known Member

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    SwingCase, driver side. PVC Bike rack. Aftermarket stereo.
    Counter point - bass is about moving air. You wont run a sub, so get some air moving where you can, in the doors.

    In this case, it may be worth your time to look into something like the ID XS69 speakers. More cone area, from a decent speaker, should give better bass response. But, they are about $500. And you would probably want an amp.

    Also, I would consider proper sound deadening and a barrier for your doors.

    Check out sounddeadenershowdown.com for some info.


    Conversely, if you are hard set on $500, that is easily do-able. I would still first deaden and treat your doors. It will make a difference.

    Then I would decide on remaining funds, and buy amp/speakers to match budget. ID, HAT, Alpine type X/Polk SR, Rainbow, and many others are available in your range with careful shopping.
     
  5. Oct 20, 2011 at 5:48 AM
    #5
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    King coilovers with remote reservoirs, Deaver 12 leaf pack with 5100's, TRD exhaust, Kenwood 6160, Anthracite Sport Wheels
    I appreciate the input. The doors will be deadened. I think, with the level of equipment I am looking at, I will see the point of diminishing returns quickly on that front. But I assume that getting the resonance out of the door skin and breaking up the wave behind the speaker can be done without spending too much, and give me a good ROI.
     
  6. Oct 20, 2011 at 8:33 AM
    #6
    Mr Marv

    Mr Marv Well-Known Member Vendor

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    I'm with Matt and would consider a good set of 6x9 components and well deadened doors. I recently did a nice small system in a friends Tacoma on less than your budget that sounded excellent IMO. The lions share was spent on the front 6x9's ($300.00), bought a used little 4x35 watt Pioneer amp for 50 bucks and bridged it to the front speakers (110 watts rms per channel) and an 8awg Scosche wiring kit from Walmart for $16.00. I just added some bass blockers on the stock rear speakers (powered from the headunit) and had enough deadener laying around but I'm sure you could fit that in. :)
     
  7. Oct 20, 2011 at 9:42 AM
    #7
    woodygg

    woodygg Well-Known Member

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    regarding the rear speakers - EXACTLY! i got rid of mine completely.
     
  8. Oct 21, 2011 at 6:33 AM
    #8
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the input Marv, I greatly value your advice. This sounds like the best route for me. I think I can still stay under budget, at least for the main components (speakers, amp, deadening) and I am willing to break the budget a little for adapter rings and wiring.

    Does anyone have input on a good 6x9 for my budget? I am still willing to consider coax or component speaker, as I don't love the stock tweeter position in the Tacoma. However, I do understand that even with that minor issue, the components are still likely the better choice. I have been considering the Alpine Type-R and MB Quart PVI speakers as they have mounting depths 3" or less. Do I really need to spend more, or am I already past the point of diminishing returns with these?

    Thank you to all those who have offered advice so far.
     
  9. Oct 21, 2011 at 8:50 AM
    #9
    Mr Marv

    Mr Marv Well-Known Member Vendor

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    You're welcome and with some searching I'm sure you can accomplish your goal on budget! :)
     
  10. Oct 22, 2011 at 11:26 AM
    #10
    06SR5canada

    06SR5canada Well-Known Member

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    id go with 6 1/2's over 6x9's and if you get the adapter plate you gain a little in mounting depth.

    coax's suck, get comps for sure
     
  11. Nov 13, 2011 at 12:09 PM
    #11
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    King coilovers with remote reservoirs, Deaver 12 leaf pack with 5100's, TRD exhaust, Kenwood 6160, Anthracite Sport Wheels
    I just wanted to give an update on this thread. I finally got everything installed, except for the sound deadening. I didn't have it on hand but I had the time to do the install last week, so I just went ahead with what I had.

    I went with Eclipse SC6900 6x9 components in the front doors (on Mr. Marv's advice.) Just what I wanted. Good midbass response and accurate highs without being too bright. For the amp I am running an Alpine MRP-F300 bridged to the SC6900's. I decided I will be adding a sub so I intended to run the fronts off of just two channels, but I made a mistake and "tested" it with the amp bridged. There is no way I am going back to 50wpc after hearing 150! So now I am looking at a PDX-5 amp, Mr Marv box, and a shallow mount sub. So much for the budget!

    As far as budget goes prior to my change of plans I was doing great. Total expenses:

    Alpine MRP-F300 (New off Ebay) - $122 shipped
    Eclipse SC6900 (New off Ebay) - $75 shipped (original MSRP $320)
    Mr. Marv's adapters - $55.95 shipped
    KnuKonceptz 4 ga. wiring kit - $35 shipped

    Total spent - $288. Even after upgrading to a 5 channel amp, deadening, and adding the sub I will still be well under $1000 and very happy. A special thanks to Mr. Marv for his advice, handiwork, and the exhaustive installation instructions that he posted here on TW.
     
  12. Nov 13, 2011 at 6:46 PM
    #12
    bigswoleone

    bigswoleone Well-Known Member

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    Alpine CDA-117 HU DLS Ultimate UP6i 6.5" comps Polk 6.5" coaxial rear-fill Polk MM series 10" sub Kicker ZX700.5 amp
    Bump for Mr. Marv. He always goes above and beyond to help anyone willing to learn. His speaker mounts work beautifully. He spent about an hour on the phone with me this weekend to help me correct the installation mistakes made by the shop that installed my system. Marv is full of knowledge and a super nice guy to boot.
     
  13. Nov 16, 2011 at 1:07 AM
    #13
    ratrod

    ratrod Well-Known Member

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    Bilstein 5100s @ 1.75 with 1.5 AAL, Satoshi Grill Mod with 2 Hella 500s behind the grill, LED dome and map lights, custom made (by me) 10" subwoofer box behind the dbl cab seat, DVD/iPod/Bluetooth/GPS/TV/USB/Stereo, Yakima rack, Shell, tinted front windows to match the factory backs. Backup cam in the tailgate handle mod.
    If you ever get around to posting pic that would be great. I would likr to do the same
     
  14. Nov 16, 2011 at 5:23 AM
    #14
    XJBaylor

    XJBaylor [OP] Well-Known Member

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    King coilovers with remote reservoirs, Deaver 12 leaf pack with 5100's, TRD exhaust, Kenwood 6160, Anthracite Sport Wheels
    I will be pulling the panels to do some deadening, and also to install a Mr. Marv sub box. When I do that I will remember to get pics.

    Here are a few iphone pictures that I found interesting...

    The stock speaker, including the adapter weighs well under one pound.

    [​IMG]

    The SC6900 weighs just shy of 4 lbs.

    [​IMG]

    This shows the door panel removed (obviously) and the crossovers in place. The crossovers are screwed into a piece of 1/8" thick mdf through the carpet to hold everything in place. It doesn't feel incredibly stable, but has proved to work very well, even with the much heavier amp.

    [​IMG]
     
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