Help, I think I need to replace U-Joints?

Just a quick update, been researching and ordering all the parts needed, so I only have one round of work taking apart the front end.

Decided that while the wheel bearing, hub, cv axels, ECGS bushing and axel seals are replaced, I am going to install the 3" toytec coils (with 1/2" spacer) to account for the sag/get to a 2.5/3" lift/get rid of any tire rub), drop the 5100 to 0" perch, and install new UCA (was going to get JBA but read about tire rub, however, found a set of Icon tubular locally for $500 - waiting to pickup this week hopefully).

Then have a shop do the alignment. My cam bolts look clean right now, so I will just anti-seize them.

Hopefully everything goes smooth, it is funny how some people face endless issues while others have a problem free install when doing the same job on the same truck. I plan to keep this truck for a longtime, so these upgrades/repairs seem like a no brainer.

Just hoping to swap the CV axels quick enough so I can send the core back to CVJ within their 14 day window.

 

Sounds like aplan! You can do it. Hey, what state you live in?

 

Have you cleaned up the rust in the pics and treated the full undercarriage with Cosmoline or wool wax?

If not, it's time.

 

Hope it goes smooth. I’ll be doing it with a “backyard mechanic” who knows these trucks better than me. I’m in Boston, MA

 

I did a full undercoating with fluid film before this winter. I probably should get a power wash & steel brush to any exposed rust spots though

 

Nah! That will buff out!

but in all seriousness, please inspect the frame from the inside of the C channel.
I’m sure someone mentioned it somewhere about our tacomas rusting from the inside.

You don’t want a structurally compromised frame risking everyone’s safety.

 

Up in the sticky section is a post that might give you a heads up as to the amount of work it would take to restore your own frame. But like others have said, if you're up in MA, you'll want to get this done before your weather turns to suck. I wouldn't know since I live south of the rust belt but even the slight surface rust that is starting to take over my frame, it's getting close to when I need to accomplish this too.

-J

 

Thanks for the link to that post. Looks like a messy job, but clearly important with c channel frames.
That might be a job worth paying someone to do - looks manageable, but a pain lol.

My frame was replaced 60k miles ago/4.5 years ago.

Preventative maintenance is the key to longevity

 

Install went smooth, got some nice lift and clearance (more clearance than expected - should have gone with bigger tires )
Unfortunately, it has been a mess with the alignment shop..


Little story time/vent lol:

Dropped off Wed morning. Will be done by end of day. Called 15 mins before they closed and they said they were just getting to it...ok?
Got a ride over and receive a call when I am 5 mins away that they can't adjust the tie rods since they're bent.
Options are a full alignment refund ($160 - which was steep in my opinion) or pay for new tie rods and wait another day. I opt to just replace the tie rods and more forward.

Day 2, I call at noon to make sure that they give me a print out of the alignment for my records. Lady on the phone says no problem. Call at 4:30pm to make sure the truck is ready before I have to bike 30 mins there. The guy puts me on hold for 2 mins to double check. 15 mins on hold and no response, so I decide to hangup and call back. The guy forgot about me, and says truck is ready. I bike over.

Once I arrive, takes about 20 mins for them to find my paperwork and let me pay. The moog inner and outer tie rods were basically double the price from them (I guess that is kind of industry standard?), $460 for parts & labor (1.5hrs). They said they didn't print out the alignment specs, but whatever, I already spent two days without a vehicle, I just want to leave.

CURRENT STATUS: Drive home, already pulling to the right on a slow side street - highway is gonna be worse. I hit a pot hole and hear a loud bang - the UCA is hitting the coils. Drive on the highway and got vibrations at 60 mph + ....wheels were already balanced, but I think they rebalanced them and messed them up because they also lost the lug nut lock that was in my center console.

So I am going to try to rotate the coil to avoid contact with the UCA, but clearly still need to have my alignment adjusted and vibration fixed. Also, I need my lug nut lock and a print out of the alignment specs. I also have a 3 hr drive tmro morning - so not an ideal situation.

I've used this shop before and they did good work, but never going here again due to their terrible customer service, lack of communication and clearly just not giving a **** about me or my time.

Wish me luck that I can get the alignment sorted. Not sure which adjustment would effect the UCA hitting the coil, but rotating the coil should help I hope. I think contact happens when wheel droops down.

 

alignment should stop it from hitting...but then again...you have a shit alignemnt shop. I would DEMAND the "bent" tie rods back as they are supposed to give you old parts back if you ask(may be too late for that now), and I would DEMAND a print out fo your alignment. I bet they half assed it, IF they did it at all....

 

Totally. I should have just found a 4x4 shop.

 

Update 2 months later:

After poking around on my front end, I realized the 5100s were at the 1st perch, causing highway vibrations, UCA contact with the coils and bad CV angles.

Dropped it down to 0"/bottom perch: no longer had vibrations, UCA & coil are clear of each other and CV axel looks to be at a healthy angle.
Lost about 1.5" of lift, but no big deal - my tires have plenty of clearance and no contact issues with the light off roading I've done.
Too much droop.

Truck has been driving great. Still a very slight pull on highway, but it isn't too bad. The tire/alignment shop said they would re-do the alignment once I had proper alignment specs for my truck and lift, but I kinda never want to see those guys again lol.

Found some mini sand dunes/off roading area in Cape Cod yesterday. I was too lazy to air down, but the MT Baja Boss tires did just fine.
Next up is finding a spot to properly undercoat my truck before the winter comes. Thanks for everyone's input.

p.s. I ended up using the Napa CV axels "extreme environment" instead of the CVJ. Also, had a hole in my muffler, currently straight pipe, but looking to get a TRD Pro Exhaust soon.

 

Do you think shops offer this type of work of restoring your frame or sanding down all the rust and hitting it with a some POR-15? Looks like one hell of a job and I think I'd rather pay someone to do this. I don't even like do fluid film myself, but that is mostly because of the smell lol

I just got a new power washer, so going to blast off the old fluid film and do a fresh coat tomorrow - winter isn't over yet in New England.

 

I just did a google search and a few places came up in your neck of the woods. So I would presume that with the right amount of money, you can find a shop to do what you ask. You can narrow down the search to be a bit more local to you but with you being in the rust belt, I would assume that there are businesses that specialize in frame restoration. Hope that helps.

-J

 

With the right amount of money, you can probably get most things done lol...

I looked at some shops in the area, but originally thought they just offered basic undercoating or fluid film treatment vs full frame resto.
I think I will call around and have it done this year. The fluid film I did yesterday will at least get me through this winter.
The rust wasn't bad, just certainly present at most of the welding spots.

 

Seems like my LCA are finally toast. Here is a video showing the creaking sound. I'll post some pics of the front end components as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&feature=shared&v=c_TrrCCcbnA

I think my plan is to buy OEM LCA (maybe some extra adjustment cams & bolts in case current ones are seized..will grease up before putting back on)

Mechanic that installed a tie rod last year said Rack & Pinion is leaking. It does look very rusted and it is original - so 196k miles and 14 years old,
but I don't have any issues with my steering. - oddly enough the tie rod bushing they replaced 12 months ago looks kinda busted or maybe just smushed? (I'll post a pic)

I figure I should just replace rack & pinion while the front end is being worked on - maybe any other parts that show some wear.
Then get an alignment front a reputable 4x4 shop.


Additionally, there is a odd squeaking sound (almost like a heat shield scraping against a warped rotor)
It is is rotational with the wheels and appears to be coming from passenger side.
Turning and braking have no effect. Sound is present at all speeds, truck still drives fine with it. No vibrations.
I will try to get a video.

Front brakes, u-joints and carrier bearing were all replaced. No idea what it could be. Doesn't seem like immediate threat, will tackle front end work first.

 

Carrier bearing drop is a good idea IMO and replacing the carrier brg when you do the u-joints is pretty much a given unless you're a glutton for punishment or have already done it. If you've not done the ecgs bushing it's likely that's the cause for much of what you're feeling. I recently dived into servicing the driveline along with adding a 2" lift at 150K, CVs were good so it didn't need those in my case. The truck got u-joints, carrier brg w/ drop, front wheel brgs, and ecgs bushing. It's like a different truck, smoother, quieter and no weird vibrations. When I was doing the ecgs I discovered the DS's inner wheel bearing seal's sealing lip was folded over on itself so I replaced it then, when the CV axels are out replacing the inner seal is an easy swap. They're expensive from toyota ($48) but you can get them allot cheaper from other sources.

 

Appreciate the reply, but you're responding to an old post on this thread (first post actually). Your advice was solid though - I basically did everything you suggested already lol.

The post before you is where I am currently struggling. Thanks

 

Sorry about that, I get caught up not checking the date sometimes.

Regarding the rubbing sound, I'd stick it up on a lift or 4 jackstands and check it with the wheels rolling in gear inc 4wd. Kinda sounds like a brake backing plate but you probably already checked that. You can also spray some lubricant at any suspect areas while it's rolling and often the sound will stop temporarily as soon as it's hit with the spray.

 

good advice, I'll give that a go