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Help!!! Need to find a switched power for an amp remote wire!

Discussion in 'Audio & Video' started by Superwhite13trd, Jul 6, 2013.

  1. Jul 6, 2013 at 2:15 PM
    #1
    Superwhite13trd

    Superwhite13trd [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Travis
    Washington pa
    Vehicle:
    2013 toyota tacoma double cab trd sport 6 spe
    5% tinted windows, plastidip badges and rims, tonneaupro trifold cover, 2 8" jbl subs in a vented enclosure
    Hey everyone I'm looking to install a amp with 2 8 inch infinities into my 2013 tacoma double cab. I am retaining the factory head unit and using a line converter until the funds become available for an aftermarket. After i looked at the switched power for the radio to turn on I noticed the wire was very wimpy and did not want to hook into there. So now I am at the crossroads as to where will I find power. Looking in the kick panel and in the Incab fuse panel is very intimidating. So can someone steer me towards what I should hook up to in the kick panel on the numerous connectors and wires. Thanks everyone
     
  2. Jul 7, 2013 at 5:45 AM
    #2
    dolbytone

    dolbytone Well-Known Member

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    You could get it from the brake light +, that way your subs hit when you have the brakes applied, which is about as good as using LOC on a factory head unit in my opinion. I did this on my daughter's car unwillingly and hated it, really really hated it. There's no way to band pass the door speakers and getting the sub to balance with the rest of the system at different volumes just wasn't possible. You really need to replace the head unit or use some kind of intermediate DSP to add a sub to a factory system and have it not totally suck.

    My advice is to do it right the first time, save the 150 bucks it takes to get a head unit with proper audio controls for using a subwoofer before you install anything.
     
  3. Jul 9, 2013 at 12:21 PM
    #3
    metrick1215

    metrick1215 Well-Known Member

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    Chris
    Clayton, GA
    First Responder Light LED Dome Light NightShade Tail Light Constant On Cig Lighter DDM Tuning HID 6000K Polk Audio 6x9 in front, Polk 6 3/4 in rear Tint Windows 20% Debadged Cruise Control Relocated Horn Painted grill to match bumper 885 Reverse Lights Pioneer 3500BHS
    im assuing your talking about the The remote wire that kicks on your amp when the car is on the remote wire for your amp doesnt draw much power.. What i would suggest is get a double fuse thing ..(an Add-a-fuse) and add a fuse, and wire to your ignition fuse.. that way when the ignition switch is on it turn the amp on...

    IF your talking about your amp wire to draw the 12V.. go through the firewall and connect to battery..
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2013
  4. Feb 18, 2014 at 3:19 PM
    #4
    codye

    codye New Member

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    cody
    atlanta, ga
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    Dude your confusing this guy with the wrong info?? He asked about the remote wire (which taps into an ignition source, never lights or windows EVERRRRR) and you don't need an aftermarket head unit that's BS. All you need is a "line output converter" which is like a second source of power that converts your speaker into RCA, which also makes it so it doesn't draw power from your speakers and give you terrible bass. Don't waste your money on a POS aftermarket unit when the converter will probably make it sound even better than almost every aftermarket head unit, for 80 bucks. But as far as tying in an ignition wire I'm not sure what slot in the fuse box it will be on.
     
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