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Help - New Leak

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by [eric], Sep 9, 2018.

  1. Sep 9, 2018 at 6:43 PM
    #1
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A new leak showed up today. Hoping you guys can tell me what it is and how to fix it myself. Its located by the passenger side tire near the oil pan.
    Sorry I don't know why the pictures are so big.
    I forgot to say its a 2005 Tacoma TRD OR.

    Thanks

    IMG_20180909_142336.jpg IMG_20180909_142417.jpg MVIMG_20180909_150344.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2018
  2. Sep 9, 2018 at 7:04 PM
    #2
    b_r_o

    b_r_o Must be present to win

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    Axle seal
     
  3. Sep 9, 2018 at 7:09 PM
    #3
    CBenfell

    CBenfell Function over Form

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    You will need to pull CV axle and replace seal. Not too difficult of a job, just have to be careful removing and installing new seal to not scratch/damage mating surfaces. Seal is like $15 from the stealership.
     
    Hank Heel likes this.
  4. Sep 9, 2018 at 8:04 PM
    #4
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys for the quick response. Axle Seal. Now I know what to google and begin my research.
     
  5. Sep 9, 2018 at 8:16 PM
    #5
    CBenfell

    CBenfell Function over Form

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    YouTube videos involving the ECGS bushing usually touch on this topic as part of the process.
     
    rocklobster2008 likes this.
  6. Sep 12, 2018 at 6:57 AM
    #6
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks that was really helpful. It covered the whole process up to the Axle Seal, but not including it. But it doesn't look that difficult.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
  7. Sep 12, 2018 at 7:01 AM
    #7
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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  8. Sep 12, 2018 at 10:28 AM
    #8
    CBenfell

    CBenfell Function over Form

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    Yep besides torquing things to spec. There’s a way to pull inner CV axle by just removing two bolts for lower ball joint and moving entire hub assembly out of the way. No axle nut removal. But I have not tried it.
     
  9. Sep 12, 2018 at 10:37 AM
    #9
    rnish

    rnish Well-Known Member

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    How many miles do you have on the truck? Shouldn’t that be covered by the 60K mile power train warranty?

    EDIT: Never mind its a 2005, I read 2015 first time through.
     
  10. Sep 12, 2018 at 12:53 PM
    #10
    b_r_o

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    Pack some grease into the back of the seal where the little spring is before you install it. The grease will help keep the spring in place when you're tapping on it
     
  11. Sep 12, 2018 at 5:43 PM
    #11
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yep 2005 135,000 miles.

    any how, I have never had good luck with trying to get warranty work done at Toyota. The dealership always finds a way to get out of of fixing the work. Like accusing me a lying or continuously cancel/rescheduling so many times I give up.
     
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2018
  12. Sep 12, 2018 at 5:49 PM
    #12
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks I will do that
     
  13. Sep 12, 2018 at 7:20 PM
    #13
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered it all. It only costs $40 free shipping.
     
  14. Sep 12, 2018 at 7:21 PM
    #14
    b_r_o

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  15. Sep 14, 2018 at 8:07 PM
    #15
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm working on it right now. The bottom of the knuckle has two bolts. The smaller of the bolt I believe is called the tie rod. It has a rubber boot on the bolt. I was banging on it with a hammer to knock it loose and I hit the rubber boot. It now has a pretty cool whole in it. How bad did I screw up? Can I replace just the rubber part?

    IMG_20180914_192435.jpg
     
  16. Sep 14, 2018 at 8:15 PM
    #16
    CBenfell

    CBenfell Function over Form

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    That tie rod end might wear a little prematurely, but it’s not ruined. You have to keep an eye on it though. If debris and water get in the boot and rust the joint, it’ll go south real quick. You can get a needle attachment for a grease gun and keep fresh grease in there. That does kinda suck though. Changing a tie rod end is not very hard. You could replace it if you wanted.

    The “proper” approach would have been to rent a tie rod separator from an Autozone for free.
     
  17. Sep 14, 2018 at 9:20 PM
    #17
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I made the same mistake with the Stabilizer bar link. The rubber boot on that is poked through too. The nut kept on spinning so I tried to grab the other end with pliers. The pliers must have made the whole.

    IMG_20180914_202739.jpg
     
  18. Sep 14, 2018 at 9:23 PM
    #18
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Winter is almost started. We get lots of snow and mud. I can guarantee water and dirt will get in there. Plus its leaking fluid. So I have to replace the whole tie rod then?
     
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  19. Sep 14, 2018 at 10:04 PM
    #19
    [eric]

    [eric] [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The new axle seal is in!!

    One more question. At the bottom of the hub or knuckle there was a 24mm nut I removed accidentally. When trying to put it back on the bolt, the bolt just spins. Any advice on that? For removal I was hitting it with a hammer. I hope I didn't damage the bolt or threads.
     
  20. Sep 15, 2018 at 4:36 AM
    #20
    CBenfell

    CBenfell Function over Form

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    The stabilizer links are not nearly as important. You just don’t want them getting so corroded that they fall off and do damage to your cv axle.

    As for the tie rod, I think that you can just replace the end you damaged, not the entire unit. The other end goes into the the steering rack and you need a special tool to remove it. The end you damaged should just unthread, and you can put a new one on. But it’s postition is critical, as in # of turns. It’ll mess with your alignment.
     

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