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Help with building a wire harness

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by STravis, Jul 9, 2015.

  1. Jul 9, 2015 at 8:44 PM
    #1
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Ok guys I am not all that great with electrical stuff but I take a lot of pride in things I do so I want this to be perfect. I am adding 3 pairs of led pods to my truck. 2 pairs will be in the bumper and one pair will be ditch lights. I want to set them all up on relays. I want to put each pair on their own switch but I also want a master switch to turn all of them off or on depending on the position of the individual switches. I have kind of sketched an idea of what I think I need. Let me know what you guys think.

    Also, what gauge wire should be used for the entire thing? I was thinking 16ga.

    IMAG0645.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jul 10, 2015
  2. Jul 9, 2015 at 8:47 PM
    #2
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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  3. Jul 9, 2015 at 8:49 PM
    #3
    MDB Taco

    MDB Taco Well-Known Member

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    So you're wanting the master switch to be dependent on the individual switches (Ie, if pair one is switched off, the master switch does not light them up)?
     
  4. Jul 9, 2015 at 8:53 PM
    #4
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The purpose of the master switch for my application would be to take the power away from the undividual switches unless the master switch was in the on position. If that makes sense.
     
  5. Jul 9, 2015 at 8:54 PM
    #5
    MDB Taco

    MDB Taco Well-Known Member

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    Oh okay. So you're wanting a master kill switch?
     
  6. Jul 9, 2015 at 8:57 PM
    #6
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, basically. I want to be able to turn all the lights on or off with one switch vs. having to turn each switch every time, but also have the ability to select individual lights.
     
  7. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:00 PM
    #7
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    The closest you can get to that (With a simple setup) is to have a master switch to run the power for each light switch off of, kill the master switch and all lights go out, turn on the master switch and all the lights with the switch in the on position come on.
     
  8. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:03 PM
    #8
    MDB Taco

    MDB Taco Well-Known Member

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    Okay. Give me a few minutes to draw a quick schematic with what I think should work.
     
  9. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:03 PM
    #9
    95 taco

    95 taco Battle Born

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    With a 3 position relay where you have your relays and the master switch a 3 position switch you could make all the lights come on at once.
     
  10. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:04 PM
    #10
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    With running a relay setup though can't I just put the master switch to disconnect the power in line before the individual switches. With the master switch in the off position shouldn't it take away the power that the individual switches need to trigger the relays into the on position?
     
  11. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:09 PM
    #11
    MDB Taco

    MDB Taco Well-Known Member

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    I THINK this setup should work. It's similar to how I have my CB wired with its in-line kill switch.

    image.jpg
     
  12. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:16 PM
    #12
    95 taco

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    Yes, the master switch will be the power switch for each light, no power to the switch=no power to the relay=no light.

    I think with a 3 position master switch and 3 position relays you can bybass the individual switches on 1 setting of the master switch and have current to every relay.
     
  13. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:20 PM
    #13
    MDB Taco

    MDB Taco Well-Known Member

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    Aight man, good luck!
     
  14. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:20 PM
    #14
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Perfect, thank you. I think that's what I was trying to draw, just way better. When all of my stuff comes in I'll put it together and update this thread.
     
  15. Jul 9, 2015 at 9:46 PM
    #15
    jmaack

    jmaack Well-Known Member

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    I'm confused on the diagram. I'm assuming one feed is illumination? And not a double throw?

    If so looks good.
     
  16. Jul 10, 2015 at 1:09 AM
    #16
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    If you are talking about the switch, one wire goes to the relay, one is positive, and the other is a ground.
     
  17. Jul 10, 2015 at 6:19 AM
    #17
    STravis

    STravis [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I've got another question guys, ehat gauge wire should I use to build the harness? Can I use 16ga for the entire thing?
     
  18. Jul 10, 2015 at 6:29 AM
    #18
    DesertDunes

    DesertDunes Well-Known Member

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    All depends on how many amp's/watts your light are pulling. between your circuit tap and switches 16 gauge is fine but your hot line running from your fuse box should be thicker depending on how many watts your going to be pulling
     
  19. Jul 10, 2015 at 6:33 AM
    #19
    DesertDunes

    DesertDunes Well-Known Member

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    Here this will help. I personally always go one size bigger if I can. [​IMG]
     
  20. Jul 10, 2015 at 6:40 AM
    #20
    MDB Taco

    MDB Taco Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, you can always use a bigger gauge, but a smaller gauge could be catastrophic. Calculate how many amps you'll be pulling and go from there.
     

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