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HELP with rough running in 2vz-fe

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by FreidTaco, Feb 23, 2014.

  1. Feb 28, 2014 at 9:18 PM
    #21
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Gates makes good belts. For idler I'd get an OEM.
     
  2. Feb 28, 2014 at 9:36 PM
    #22
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    All idlers are free. nothing locked up
     
  3. Feb 28, 2014 at 9:37 PM
    #23
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    You have the belt off already?
     
  4. Feb 28, 2014 at 9:44 PM
    #24
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    yes belt is off. trying to break the idler loose and cant
     
  5. Feb 28, 2014 at 10:05 PM
    #25
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    got it. put a crescent on it. so the belt wearing is non linear so im thinking that it is not rubbing per say but possibly just age and separating then caught chunks and ripped them off.
     
  6. Feb 28, 2014 at 10:11 PM
    #26
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Huh looked like it was clumped up on the idle/tensioner.
     
  7. Feb 28, 2014 at 10:38 PM
    #27
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    i think that is where the closest protrusion was located in relation to the travel of the belt. once the belt started to fail it just kept pulling its self apart
     
  8. Feb 28, 2014 at 11:14 PM
    #28
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    also figured out that those two teeth made a difference of 14.7* on intake and exhaust timing.
     
  9. Feb 28, 2014 at 11:29 PM
    #29
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    Damn! Haha

    Well if the idlers are good and spin free. Just get a new belt and see what happens.
     
  10. Feb 28, 2014 at 11:37 PM
    #30
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    I think we will replace the tensinoer pulley. Slight slop in bearing and in bushing.
     
  11. Mar 1, 2014 at 6:54 AM
    #31
    Torspd

    Torspd Tor-nication

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    Damn. This got interesting quickly. Whoever worked on that car before, must have been the same person that worked on my Subi. Lol
     
  12. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:00 AM
    #32
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    If you are interested in my professional opinion, I would recommend replacing not only the belt and the pulley you mentioned, but BOTH pulleys, as well as the actual tensioner itself. I have heard of several people who have gone without replacing the tensioner, only to have the new belt skip. It's worth the cost since you are already in there. Kinda like doing the water pump since the belt is already off.
     
  13. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:29 AM
    #33
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    Found a couple kits on rock auto that have both pulleys and the belf for like 60. The water pump spins easily and has no leaks, think I should replace that one too?
     
  14. Mar 1, 2014 at 9:37 AM
    #34
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    Timing on left alternator or right
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. Mar 1, 2014 at 1:50 PM
    #35
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    Does anyone know the difference between ABS and non ABS brake rotors?
     
  16. Mar 8, 2014 at 1:40 AM
    #36
    FreidTaco

    FreidTaco [OP] 'merica

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    Well we are having troubles still. got the cams all lined back up with new belts. Still having trouble with accelerating and want to surge badly. The engine runs best at about 15*
    Idles completely fine.
    Also got shocked twice from distributor cap while adjusting timing, one of the times I almost passed out.
     
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