Here's somthing I didn't know about lug nuts

Not speed racers brother?

 

I see this thread hasn’t been active in awhile, I’m curious about corrosion. Have those eBay nuts rusted at all, any signs of corrosion? Still usable? I live in the Midwest, winter is accepting my truck will be covered in salt darn near the whole time, I’m worried these would rust pretty quickly.

 

They're about the same quality as the originals. I still have them on the truck, so they have held up. I torque them when checking things, and they're holding. No loose outer shells, no corrosion. Taco sits outside, in OH, doesn't get driven much. Based on everything, they were a good buy.
Make sure you use the correct socket. Most problems come from the outer thin shell deforming, socket won't fit, combined with air tools hammering them. The outer shells deform, changing socket size slightly over time. There are special sets of three sockets, made just for this issue. I keep mine in the truck. I don't let any shop install/remove tires, if at all possible. Solids are available and expensive. I went the cheaper route, so far so good.

 

Lug nuts also swell over time. I found that out with my 13 Sienna recently when I couldn't get a wrench on them to loosen. Had to tap it on with a hammer and wiggle them to break loose. Ford lug nuts were notorious for doing that. The dealership I worked at took advantage of every customer coming in for oil changes and tire rotations by telling everyone their lug nuts were swollen and needed replaced. Most people trusted the dealership.

 

Better to replace them at the dealer than be stuck beside the road trying to change a tire with a lug wrench that won't fit over the lugnuts

 

Don't be afraid to use a generous amount of anti-sieze on the threads of each stud. Put a dab inside the nut and try to keep it off the face where the nut contacts the wheel. It's the friction between the nut face and the wheel that holds the torque. The threads themselves can be quite goopy and it won't affect torque or risk backing off.

And use a good quality nut with the thin metal cap over it. Something that covers the threads and keeps the elements out

 

i wouldnt call it swollen...id call it made poorly (pos). Ive switched to solid lugs on my F150. No issues since

 

This is exactly why I bought 1/2 size sockets. I have a 15 with over 200k. What happens with these lugs is overtime, they swell. Mine are so bad, some a 21.5mm socket wont fit on them, have to bump up to a 22mm. So, if you do your own work like me doing rotations and such and have a powerful impact, spend the money on those sockets and be done with it. You want the best fitting socket for your lug when you go to remove them. They will twist on you if you do not. Last I heard, oem lugs for these are $20 a piece. I carefully remove them with my impact when I need to work on it. While its on a lift, I use my milwaukees bolt mode to put them back on. It stops at 50ft lbs. Drop it on the ground, and torque them to 83ft lbs. I will link below those sockets. They are a must have.

$53 ARES 59065-6pc Half Size Lug Nut Flip Impact Socket Set - 1/2" Drive – Removes Bloated/Damaged Chrome Capped Lug Nuts – Flip Sockets - Includes 5" Extension and Knockout Bar

https://www.amazon.com/ARES-59065-S...refix=ares+1/2+size++lug+,aps,127&sr=8-1&th=1

 

They're chrome plated, actually. Chrome is brittle like glass. Impact wrench cracks it and it's toast.