HHG's Built, Yet Still Building, Build Thread. (Now With Flat Bed & 37s)

Redid my twin sticks today. Was Tired of the crappy, leaky, ripped boot, Low Range sticks.

RST came out with their own sticks. Much nicer superior design.

The new sticks.


Unfortunately, the H/L shifter would not shift into low range. I realized that the shift nub was too wide and binding up, stopping travel. You gotta love taking a grinder to a brand new $300 part...

 

I was thinking about moving the twin sticks over to the “coin slot” next to the auto shifter, but I liked them where they were. I put them back up front.

I did place them better this time around. It helps when you’re doing the job yourself. The last time, I hadn’t started welding yet. I had to con the yard guy at work into doing it for me. It came out fine, but the shift knobs didn’t end up exactly where I wanted them. They were too close to the auto shifter to use the big RST shift knobs. I ended up giving them to @stairgod and using the smaller ones that come with the Low Range sticks.

Those old, leaky, annoying, Low Range sticks did come in handy. I cut the bent shift handles off and used them to get the new knobs where I needed them to be.

These RST sticks aren’t any shorter throw than the old Low Range ones. I’m a little disappointed about that. (See video)

I put a nice deep bevel on all the flat parts.



Anti spatter to keep the moving parts from getting burnt up. Especially the O-ring grooves.


I had to move the H/L stick inboard to clear the auto shifter tower. I had clearanced it heavily prior for the old sticks. I don’t think you can cut anymore away from the tower without hitting important parts...




Stubby wrenches are perfect extensions for this location. Just tacked here.



Fully welded



As you can see here, the H/L sticks arc takes up all of the available space in the cubby. I had to clock the wrench, and place the curved stick in just the right spot to work. Luckily, I don’t have carpet in my truck, so I felt comfortable tacking the shifters together in place.
https://youtu.be/WPv37cwYO6A

It’s been a couple of hours now. I haven’t seen any smoke... I think it’s safe to call it a day and go inside. I’ll tackle final assembly and floor sealing tomorrow.

 

That's pretty freaking awesome work! All of it

Now, in order to get shorter throw you would need a mechanism to multiply your stick movement right?
Or, possibly extend existing or cut out new, longer nubs and raise the whole assembly for clearance? Or am I missing a point?

 

I’m no engineer, but the way I’m looking at it, you’d have to raise the fulcrum and extend the shift nubs to shorten the throw.

When I first ordered the new sticks from RST, Wyatt talked about a shorter throw.

When I originally ordered the shifters, I was planning to do a crawl box too. Apparently, he sends different T-case sticks if you’re also doing a crawl box, that have an 1.5” base. I guess those would be the sticks that have a shorter throw.

 

Mark makes a short throw kit for the twin sticks, at least he did a while back, I would send him a message. Looking good in here!

 

Thanks man. Which Mark is this?

 

Sorry should have been more specific

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-shift-base-extensions.318006/

 

Oh, THAT Mark.

 

Floor sealed. The Trail Gear shift boot:
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-133504-toyota-twin-stick-shifter-boot.html has a bigger footprint, has the trim ring included, and is wider between the two boots. Way better for sealing the floor than the one that RST sends.

 

Sequoia master Cylinder installed

 

How tough are the RCV axles? Where is the weakest link now, differential?

 

I don’t have the RCVs yet. They’re supposed to ship in two weeks.

Time will tell I suppose.

 

I'm interested to see. Makes me wonder if the CV will be stronger than the differential gears. If all else fails SAS time!

 

I’m familiar with the “it’s bettwr to have the axles be the weak point” argument.

Problem is, they’re a very weak point. I always use rebuilt OEM CVJ axles.

Even then, I believe they are binding and breaking. The RCVs can droops more before binding.

And, if I do break a front diff, I have CV ends to throw in to drive home. I’m getting pretty good at swapping front diffs at this point.

 

God damn, you are kicking ass on that truck

Just curious, how fun was swapping the master cylinder in? Have one waiting to go in the RC, when I get that far down the list.

Currently in the middle of rebuilding the rear axle and it's rear wheel bearing time. About to fab up a tool, but figured maybe you or @stairgod may have whipped one up already?

 

Thanks Mojo.

The MC wasn’t too bad. The SOS kit comes with the firewall adapter plate, and the push rod adapter / extension.

Worst part was bending the brake lines that attach the old lines to the MC.

If you look on their site, it clearly shows pre-bent lines with the kit. This is what you get...



I have not done rear bearings. I know Jon hasn’t made a tool yet, because we were just discussing this the other day.

 

You have a build thread for the RC?

 

Not yet. Maybe one day, but for now I have no motivation to do one.

 

I get that. I took a reprieve myself

 

wow thats somewhat irritating on the brake line part. at least they give you a diagram to follow