HHG's Built, Yet Still Building, Build Thread. (Now With Flat Bed & 37s)

Is the bean bag and dolly so Jon can push you out of his way while he’s working and you are watching?

Eastwood has a lot of stuff.

 

Something like that

 

Tim could you cut the mud flaps down so they are closer to the width of the tire? Could look better. I personally love floppy flaps but yours are a touch wide

 

I certainly could. It Might look better. I’m not going to though. I honestly don’t care that much about it. It’s going to look funny either way and it’s easier to just use standard size mud flaps.

And, like I said. It doesn’t look AS dumb in person.

 

I renamed the truck Dumbo now

 

Too short

 

Is that a rocker that only allows power when the rocker is on to the USB's? Or just looks like a rocker?

 

It’s only a USB plug. No rocking.

 

I have RWD again.

 

Is that a stock size u joint at the diff?

 

As you probably know, Stock is 1330. That’s a 1350

 

Any reason you didn’t opt for a Toyota flange and u-joints?

 

I wasn’t offered that option. It was going to come with a standard 1330 Ujoint. I figured I might as well just have them put a 1350 yolk on the 60.

Doesn’t really matter. I needed to have a driveshaft made regardless.

Even a stock two piece DS would have to be shortened.

 

I was thinking from a strength perspective. Toyota flange and joints are quite a bit stronger than 1350 and yolk.

 

We will have to agree to disagree. A 1350 U-joint is stronger than a 1330 U-joint, flange or no.

 

Wonder why Toyota flanges are not on your Ford or mine

 

I have a flange setup on the rear of the 2002 pig, 10.5" sterling. At least he got the u-bolt setup and not the cap setup. I think the 1350 u-joint with the u-bolt connection will end up being about the same strength as a 1330 u-joint with the flange.

Typically when I've seen a failure it's in the actual u-joint on the toyota drivelines where the u-joint cap that holds the needles in will bust open For the setup with the u-bolts or cap setup they are usually the first to let go. It's just my opinion here I've got no math to back it up but I believe the u-bolt setup is ok for a stock application but once you get into high torque applications that the u-bolts suffer from deflection. My theory is that with a flange setup, you are able to get a much more even distribution of clamping force versus a cap or u-bolt; and this keeps the driveshaft u-joint from deflecting as much under load. Regardless, I'd carry a spare u-bolt and rear u-joint with you.

I don't say this to everyone I meet but I really like your black shaft Tim

 

I get that a lot

 

I should have clarified, I meant OG Toyota u-joints. Not the 1330 they went to on the second gen Taco. Jesse at Hi-Angle has been preaching for years that OEM Toyota joints are stronger than 1350’s and close to on par with 1410’s.

Odds are that you are fine carrying extra ubolts and a ujoint but just sharing my two cents.

I hate the awful cap setup my Ford came with. I was shocked the first time I got under there and saw how chintzy it is compared to what I was used to. Especially when pulling the ds is routine maintenance to lube the slip yolk after it starts clunking.

This...plus the u-bolt or cap yolk is susceptible to being tagged by a rock and damaged...Toyota flanges just spin on rocks and are good to go unless you have a crush sleeve on the pinion. Also, Toyota joints work at higher angles, so they are less likely to bind at full droop or with some axle wrap.