HID Install How To (For ambiguous retrofit)

Reminder...

Tapping CCFL halos into the factory DTRL on a 2nd Gen will result in premature failure. The fluorescent units can not tolerate being used as turn signals.
I've killed CCFL units in less than 12 hours of continuous flashing on the bench.

Plus the DTRL shuts off when the headlights or parking lights are on.
Personally, I'd wire them to a switched-hot that is on with ignition only, not ACC, like the dash lights.

 

Good point about the DTRL possibly causing premature failure since they would be utilized as blinkers as well. Not sure how that'd effect the LED halos. maybe I should just do the add a fuse option on an ignition hot circuit. Hmmm.

Edit: also considering tapping into my fogs as I leave them running 24/7. Then they'd also be switched.

 

Those aren't any better than the quick splices in my opinion. Both damage the host wire at least a little bit. A soldered connection with heat shrink at the joint would be better IMO. Eventually, those quick splices let moisture into the wire and will start to corrode.

 

The quick splices do harm the wire more than these positaps that's for sure. I'll take a small hole vs. guillotining the wire.

I also plan on using some dielectric grease to minimize moisture intrusion. Not going to cut my factory wires to solder these in because even if I did that I would add some sort of quick disconnect/molex connector because unfortunately for inspection purposes in VA I may have to cut power to the HALO's.

 

It's not the poke to the sheathing that does the damage, it's the prong that gets jabbed into the wire so it's not a tight spun wire but it gets split. Dielectric grease would help water intrusion. Have you considered a crimp on connector with that heat shrink stuff built in? You could put a femail side on the host wire and a male on the halo for easy disconnect.

 

I see....

Anyone know a 12v ignition switched source/fuse to tap into under the hood I can just use a add a fuse on? Figured it'd be easier then going under there with a test light to see. Anyone have a readily available answer

 

Buzz out Fuse #10 <TRN-HAZ>
Should be a 15a fuse that controls the turn signals, hazards, and gauges.
It may be hot all the time (supplied the 4-ways), so check it. Other than that, I'm not seeing anything under the hood that would be hot only with the ignition.

 

Appreciate the Intel, I'll check it out tomorrow. My retros should be in

 

You may be stuck going to one of the IGN sources under the dash, but it's not a big deal to run through the grommet. It's next to the brake booster. Cut a soda straw off at an angle, run it through the grommet, run the wire through the straw, yank the straw and dab on some RTV on the engine compartment side.

 

Not sure if its always been this way or if its a recent TRS policy. But, your halo's should not be wired directly into the car harness if you wish to keep your warranty intact. To maintain your warranty on the halo's you would need to order a relay harness(9006 relay harness in my case) wire the halos to it and the power and control wires would then go to the car wiring. I am only speaking of the LED type halo's, i'm not sure if there is a difference with the CCFL's.

 

^ Interesting.

How would they know how you have them wired, though?

 

They don't but the harness is only 25 bucks. Considering how much you paid to get them sweet lights done on your truck it may be worth it. All I can say is they may ask questions when you have a warranty claim...one wrong answer could cost you a few bucks. Though TRS has awesome customer service and I dicked up something 100% my fault and they gave me 50% off the replacement part.

 

Hmm. If I buy the harness, how would I wire it into my factory fogs as the power source. Will def have to order this harness. Wish Burt would have included that as an option. Didn't realize they required a voltage regulator. Shoulda done more reading on TRS.

 

BTW, this thread is a life saver. Definitely helped me on my install tonight !!!!

 

Cool, glad it helped! I was lucky enough to have some of Burts lights early on and was hoping it would help some more people down the road.

 

How would I wire the Halo's to turn off when the headlights turn on? Right now I have them tapped into the side marker lights, which stay on when the headlights are on.

 

sub'd...thx for the write up!!!

 

That is a good question... I don't know, but maybe someone could help us out. I know you could just directly wire it with a switch in the cab, but it would be awesome if it was tied into the the existing wiring and automatically did that.

 

Would be nice. Never wired a switch before.

 

Guys, check this thread on how to remove the lights on the 2012's. Helped a lot along with this thread.

Thanks to everyone for these how to's. Saved me from a lot of head aches and broken clips. lol.

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/lighting/213178-2012-headlight-grill-removal.html#post4853607