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High Angle Inner CV Boot with Boot Slide Mod

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by akamrkent, Jul 19, 2015.

  1. Jul 19, 2015 at 7:38 PM
    #1
    akamrkent

    akamrkent [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm going to share my documented experiment with you. I'm not a mechanic, but I can turn wrench!

    We're looking at the combining these two products:
    High Angle Inner CV from Off Road Solutions
    Duralast Gold/CV Axle (oem or other brands of axle would work.)Other side note is this axle does not use a tri-lobe tulip race. It is perfectly round and matches the boot.

    Using some tips from the Boot Slide Mod thread. Thanks @802YOTA

    Oh and two Hockey Pucks!

    If you don't know how to remove a CV axle watch this. https://youtu.be/1uNQTSm7wcM

    Tools you'll need:
    Basic shop tools! not gonna list them all...
    Depending on what kind of bands clamps you use, you'll need a band tensioning tool
    I ordered CV Boot Clamp Pliers for Ear type Clamps (those were the kind that came in the kit)

    Here's a side by side comparison to the stock boot. The High Angle Boots have two more baffles and are longer.
    IMG_4582.jpg

    Phase 1: Remove inner boot DO NOT CUT IT OFF!
    • Take the large band off.
    IMG_4568.jpg
    • Pull the Tulip race off the tulip bearings.
    IMG_4573.jpg
    • Clean up the some of the grease so you can access the retaining clip. Remove the retaining clip to slide the tulip bearing assembly off.
    IMG_4580.jpg IMG_4587.jpg
    • Remove the smaller boot clamp to slide the old boot off.
    • Clean up the grease and what not. If your CVs have a lot of miles on them or had dirt and water inside of them, I highly recommend a good cleaning in a bath of gasoline or parts cleaner.
    Phase 2: Preparing the Slide Stop Mod. There are a few different ways of doing this mod. I chose this method because of what parts I had available.
    • Cut the small side of the boot of maintaining the integrity of the piece so you can still seat the boot clamp.
    • Make an one inch spacer. I chose to add a spacers because the Duralast shaft has grooves to help seat the boot in place better. Adding the longer boot put me past all the grooves and I felt the added benefit of using a groove was worth adding a spacer. I made my spacer out of a Hockey Puck(cheap and tough as s#*t!).
    IMG_4589.jpg IMG_4590.jpg

    Phase 3: Put it back together! Make sure everything is clean. Don't want to get grease on stuff tell it's all together.
    • Slide the High Angle Boot down at least an inch and half past the last groove.
    • Slide your spacer on (if you are using one)
    • Slide the boot repurposed boot part down to the last groove and clamp it. (if you have grooves) If are not using a spacer, place this part at the desired riding position.
    IMG_4591.jpg
    • Slide the High Angle boot up snug against the spacer and clamped boot part and clamp it.
    • This is a good point to add half of your required grease. (the kit comes with grease) Try to keep the clamping surface clean.
    IMG_4605.jpg
    • Drop the Tulip bearing assembly on and set the retaining clip.
    • Before applying the bearing race, make sure the ring that mates against the diff seal is seated on the race. It's common for this to pop off while removing the axle from the diff. I also used a bit of loctite retaining compound to seat it, red will work to if you don't have the other.
    IMG_4592.jpg IMG_4586.jpg
    • Take note of where the bearings were wearing on the race ways. This gives you an idea of extension used while in use.
    • Put the remaining grease in the bearing race.
    • Seat the boot around the bearing race. This can be a pain, a flat head screw driver can help but be cautious not to damage the boot.
    • Once seated, before you clamp. Move the race up to the estimated extension recapping above. With the flat head or other tool, gently pull the boot away from the exterior of the race way to let the air pressure equalize. Otherwise your boot will collapse under suction.
    • Put you Boot clamp on. Tip: if you're not sure if your extension is right you can install the clamp just on the snug side and readjust the air pressure once installed. Then clamp it down good.
    IMG_4593.jpg
    On the above picture, my extension was short.

    On good extension and normal ride height, the baffles should barely touch at most. A little space is better.

    Thanks for reading. I'll post updates on durability and what not.

    Cheers
    Kent
     
  2. Aug 31, 2015 at 8:38 AM
    #2
    akamrkent

    akamrkent [OP] Well-Known Member

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    My boots still looking great! Just ran Slick Rock trail and everything looks solid. 1st time I haven't had to repair my CVs after a wheeling trip.
    image.jpg image.jpg
     
    zerotimeouts likes this.
  3. Aug 31, 2015 at 8:42 AM
    #3
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    I am doing this to my 3rd gen 4runner.

    this is exactly what I needed.
     
  4. Dec 5, 2015 at 6:49 PM
    #4
    MatthewMay1

    MatthewMay1 I'm an amateur professional.

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  5. Dec 5, 2015 at 9:26 PM
    #5
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Average Contributor

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    On the subject of the perfectly round tulip race, does the inside part still have the tri-lobe grooves for the bearings? I would consider buying these just for that part so I could use the high angle boots with it, and not have to use the OEM boot underneath to accomodate the odd shape)
     
  6. Dec 10, 2015 at 2:10 PM
    #6
    akamrkent

    akamrkent [OP] Well-Known Member

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    It does Have the tri-lobe grooves. Though I'm not sure if they are compatible with OEM tulips.
     
  7. Dec 12, 2015 at 4:15 AM
    #7
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz Well-Known Member

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    Great write up! Thanks for sharing! I just did that on my OEM CV's.

    20151209_154418.jpg
     
  8. Dec 14, 2015 at 8:14 AM
    #8
    akamrkent

    akamrkent [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Let me know how it works out with the trilobe bearing race. I've heard some people have a hard time getting a seal between the OEM boot cutout part and the Off Road Solutions boot. Did you by chance use any type of adhesive between the two parts?
     
  9. Dec 14, 2015 at 1:57 PM
    #9
    98tacoma3rz

    98tacoma3rz Well-Known Member

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    I haven't really driven it much since I did it. I didn't use any kind of adhesive. I guess I should have used some rtv or something. I got the boot clamp pretty stinkin tight. I guess we'll see!
     
  10. Dec 14, 2015 at 9:40 PM
    #10
    LikeABoss4x4

    LikeABoss4x4 Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Nice write-up. We've always used these extended boots from All-Pro and they look like a very similar product. We also sell some emergency boot covers made by PRP. They simply velcro around the boot in case it gets torn to keep the dirt out and mess down, but we've had a few people order them to run all the time as added protection. They make them for UTVs but I bet one of the 3 sizes will fit Tacomas: http://www.boss4x4.com/product-p/prp1-h27.htm
     
    akamrkent [OP] likes this.
  11. Mar 4, 2016 at 8:28 AM
    #11
    Red Baron

    Red Baron Let's call it livabetes, no more die

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    @odomandr this is one that I saw for the boots, good shit man
     
  12. Apr 1, 2016 at 4:08 PM
    #12
    Dcsleeper408

    Dcsleeper408 Well-Known Member

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    sub'd need to this asap! would it be recommended to use new axles instead of my old axles? i think got maybe 100k on them.
     
  13. Apr 1, 2016 at 4:15 PM
    #13
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    I'd get newer axles and then keep and service the old ones as spares
     
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  14. Apr 1, 2016 at 4:16 PM
    #14
    Dcsleeper408

    Dcsleeper408 Well-Known Member

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    Right on! @MTopp appreciate the info!
    I'll probably get some OEM ones. had bad experience w/ duralast on my hondas
     
  15. Apr 1, 2016 at 4:26 PM
    #15
    MTopp

    MTopp Professional bear handler

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    Yeah, oem is the only good option for Tacomas pretty much
     
  16. Apr 1, 2016 at 8:50 PM
    #16
    akamrkent

    akamrkent [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm using the duralast CVs. Though I just had to replace one. not because of the upper boot. But something inside the out joint was grinding and making it very stiff. I do like how the Duralast version had a cylinder for the inner joint, where as the OEM have a tri-cut making it harder to mate the boots.
     
  17. Dec 11, 2018 at 1:08 AM
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    Strictlytoyz

    Strictlytoyz Well-Known Member

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    Reviving! Any updates on how its holding up. Plan on doing this this weekend
     
  18. Dec 11, 2018 at 11:17 AM
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    pray4surf

    pray4surf Well-Known Member

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  19. Dec 11, 2018 at 12:51 PM
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    BlackSportD

    BlackSportD Well-Known Member

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    Icon/TC Mid travel, TRD S/C, PNP Greddy EMU, 625cc injectors, 2.2 pulley, Hayden tranny cooler, AEM wideband, TRD boost gauge.
    I think those are the boots that CVJ uses as well, and on my CVJ ''high angle' axles those ones have held up, it's their blue outer ones that failed really early, so I'd like to rebuild just the outer part using the OEM boot plus spacer mod. Would be interesting if this is the winning combo.
     
  20. Dec 11, 2018 at 4:14 PM
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    DW85

    DW85 Dude.....

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    Would these be better boots or the same as the Porsche 930 boots?
     

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