Home Improvement Today?

Need some TW assistance. I've searched and searched and come up short. I'm replacing two windows (both nearly abutting the corner of the house so I need to redo the entire corner) next month and I need to find some replacement metal corners for my 18" western red cedar grooved shakes. I only have three and I don't recall where they even came from. They're 16" tall and have grooves similar to the shakes . Here's a pic from showing a corner when I replaced a window three years ago. It's virtually impossible to not destroy them when removing the necessary courses for the window install. Any assistance is much appreciated!

 

Just found some by stumbling across a photo.

http://www.prosidingaccessories.com...ed-Raked-Shake-Outside-Corner__p-1-2-3-1.aspx

 

Bought my house this past December and had to have someone come out today to test my back-flow system on the house and it failed and they quoted me $75 to cap the system or $280 to fix it so i asked them to cap it and when i got home my wife tells me they couldn't cap it because they couldn't find the cutoff valve and said that i needed to dig up the yard till i find the valve and have them come back out to cap it. I have to have this done ASAP but i have no idea where to start and i don't want to just start digging where they were digging and risk cracking the PVC pipe. Where should i be looking for a cut off valve?

here is what i am dealing with.

back flow system

under the green box

closeup of the back flow valve that is destroyed. (was like this when i purchased the house)

front of house where the drain is for the system and the cover for the water meter that just has a meter inside

 

We're working on getting the exterior insulation and top layer of plywood laminated to our roof deck this week , roofers are scheduled to start end of month

 

Looks like a pvb Backflow. We don't use them much here,just rp and dc. What's the pipe coming out of vent? Looks like that's where water valve may be. And you can replace that yourself as a homeowner here but can't test it unless your licensed tester.

 

I was actually curious on that with that style of ceiling. So basically its the T&G wood, plywood over it, insulation (foam boards?), plywood over that, then normal roofing (of whatever style is picked...ie tar paper and shingles)

How do you secure everything? Or is it kind of each layer is just secured to the layer below it?

 

Can you get a rebuild kit?

 

Why not ISO board?

 

Those aren't worth the trouble.

 

I just had to replace an Apollo PRV for my house that's 8 years old....

 

Yea they're a wearable device. I never rebuild a prv unless it hits 3". Never had good luck with any smaller ones.

 

It is polyisocyanurate

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/home-improvement-today.12120/page-630

 

Inside to outside is glulam rafters , 2x6 t&g decking , 1/2" plywood , Titanium PSU30 peel and stick , 2 layers of 2.7" polyisocyanurate foam board , 1/2" plywood laminated with 7" ISO Screws , Titanium PSU30 peel & stick , Proloc metal roofing

 

Ive ran across 4" thick ISO board,with 3/8" plywood top more than the thinner layers.

 

We need 5 1/4" to meet our insulation requirement

 

Is the first layer of titanium a temporary measure to dry it in b4 rest of assembly is installed? R u not worried about having 2 impermeable layers with a big sponge (the polyiso) sandwiched between them? I guess if you controlled moisture at the fascia end and the peak that shouldn't be a problem....
Pretty sure u know what you're doing here, just curious is all

 

Well i took the day off and got back at it this morning and found the cut-off valve which was directly below the drain in the front. Luckily i wanted to clean out the box in the front and while i was doing that i saw the pipe turned down and the valve was right there. The guy came back already and shut off the water to the back flow and capped it so now i don't have to worry about it any more.

 

The bottom layer is our air / vapour barrier and its an unvented roof assembly

 

Nice I've always wanted to do something like that but the homes we build (mostly low income housing) tend towards traditional tek with beefed up insulation and envelope upgrades

No cathedral ceilings for us

I do plan on rebuilding the vaulted ceiling at my house as an unvented assy and am strongly considering dense packed cavities sealed off completely with the an eave/ridge vent path between the cavities and roof sheathing

Or I'll just stack some foamboard and plywood lol