Homemade skid plates?

I don't have a diff drop.

 

That's awesome!!!! Just need to get some plate.

 

After a fiasco with not accounting for shrinkage, and having to cut it apart and start over, and then life/covid getting in the way, I finally finished mine and got them mounted up. I've since painted them, but they at least fit now, lol

 

They look great! Rebuilding mine this week and will throw up some pics.

 

Yeah, I'm not entirely happy with the gap between the front and mid skid, but we'll see how it plays out. The way it's shaped, I have the option to build up a wedge shaped piece to fill that gap at teh mid skid if it ends up being a problem with getting snagged, but at least going forward, it shouldn't be too bad.

We'll see...

Another option is to redo how I mount the mid skid to the front skid. Right now, it's sandwiched between the frame and the front skid. That was kind of the simplest way out, without simply bolting the 2 skids together (I didn't want bold heads exposed).

 

Thought I would post these here too. I looked through this thread for inspiration. Made a transmission skid this weekend from 3/16" a36. The edges have a 1" upward bend and there are 2 ribs running lengthwise on the top for strength. After seeing where the crossover pipe sat right past the last skid, I was afraid of ripping it off backwards on a rock. I am leaving for my wheeling/camp trip in a couple days, so no time for the exhaust re-route that I have been planning. So I made this kicker plate for a temporary solution. Hopefully it works out. May trim it up a bit more. Was all I could do to finish these and get them on in the heat this weekend.

 

So is A36 the consensus for the skids?
My question is 1/8" or 3/16? I end up dragging alot but I also daily my truck, so if it's not needed, less weight is better.

 

Most aftermarket are 3/16. Some super beefy ones are 1/4

my 1/8 dented immediately and I just built a 3/16

 

Thanks, thinking about doing DIY once I weld up my sliders and bumper. Skids are just so expensive otherwise, except Coastal, but that's weld it yourself anyway.

 

all the armor is crazy $$$ that’s why I bought a welder and learned how to glue metal. Now that I’ve built bumpers I realize why they cost what they do. Soooo much effort into them. Check out the “Anything Welding” thread for more dope folks

 

Barely got my act together and finished these the other week. I didn’t take many pics in my rush. I want to add “mid” mounts where the two plates meet. I had planned on it but was running very low on time.

I copied bud builts rear mount design... there is a piece of angle that permanently bolts to the steering rack. The skid bolts to that angle with carriage bolts and is easily removable without taking off the big steering rack bolts.

just have these two pics.

belly plate


Painting

 

I'm considering trying to diy a brake press. seems like it's a couple grand for anything that'll do 3/16" plate steel.
Figure some heavy angle iron hinged with some counter weights would do.

 

Hello and thank you everyone for contributing!
I am planning on building all my armor this Fall. I definitely have a lot of metal fabrication and CAD experience. Not to mention a CNC plasma at my disposal. I think I am going to take the measurements and drawings produced thus far and make a .dxf that can be directly exported to automated fabrication equipment. I found files for the slider bolt-on plate but not skids. If I do create one I will definitely post it.
Questions: 3rd gen- the only difference is the oil filter location correct? Anyone on here used these measurements for a 3rd gen with success? (not do you think it will work, but have you actually done it..)

 

Can you make DWG file ,, asking for a friend

 

Easy, just a matter of export options.

 

Won't the bigger one from Swag do it in a 20 ton press?

 

Here is the tranny skid template I made. The only modification from this template when fitting was the 1" folded up lip on the edges needs to be cut off about 3" from the rear to clear the cross member. The total width of the steel sheet is 24" and is 3/16" a36. 1" on each side is bent up leaving the skid at 22" total width when done. On the front edge, the overall width is reduced to 21 1/4" for 2.5" back. The skid is 27" overall length. There is a bend at 4" from the front edge. The skid rises a total of 1.5" to the rear, and is bent 3" from the rear end of the skid to mount flat to the cross member. I don't know the angle, I bolted the front 4" down, bent the skid up on a fab table until I had a 1.5" rise then bent the back 3" until it was flat/level at that end. I also cut some 1" strips and welded them vertically on the back of the skid for strength. If that doesn't make sense, I can clarify. Sorry for lack of more detail on the template, I made them a couple days before I left on a wheeling trip, so it was in a hurry. This bolted up perfectly to my RCI IFS front skid. The transfer case skid will be the same width, but you will need to decide how to mount the ass end. I have seen some that rise up to meet the frame and are mounted on the sides, and I have seen a fab'd cross bar that runs between the frame rails for the rear of the transfer case skid to mount to. It also depends on whether or not you have an exhaust re-route. Skid could be flat if you have an exhaust re-route and build a cross brace to mount to. That is the route I'm taking once my re-route is done.

 

Didn't see the larger ones!

 

Hey, @jahulgan I used your file as a starting point. How updated are the measurements? I just downloaded them this week.
Making one for my 3rd Gen. Going to post a .dxf and .dwg when I'm done. So far this is what I have for measurements from your file. Going to get under my truck tomorrow to cross-reference. Trying not to build it twice.

 

I think you need to adjust the mounting holes in the middle, they look different on 3rd gen I think. Dimensions look close other than that from what I remember though. I would also cut a hole for the oil filter if I were you. It's not the end of the world, but it sucks to pull it for an oil change, they are awkward. I'd weld a strip of 3/16" on the back edges of the cut access hole and make a few threaded holes or weld nuts on the back so you can make a flush mount cover plate. Maybe counter sink the holes and use bugle head machine screws so they are flush. That was my plan anyway, but I ended up just buying the IFS skid when there was a sale with free shipping. I still would have saved $100+ to build it. If you need to confirm measurements on anything, let me know and I can look.

Edit:
My RCI front skid oil filter cover plate uses threaded clips to hold the cover - not the best as they seize and brake easily. Mud sticks up there and rusts them out very fast. I will probably replace them with nuts welded on the back side. I'm going that route so if they seize again I can grind the nut off the back and weld a new one on instead of trying to drill out bolts from a threaded hole.