Hood Vibrating

I like those $.02. Sounds like the cleanest way to fix this.

 

It is black kinda looks like a tar adhesive. They replaced the bad adhesive (from what I can see) with this stuff, along with extra spots of it. To me it looks like a good fix. Time will only tell.

 

Ha! $40,000.02

 

Just out of curiosity to everyone who is having issues. What plant did your tacoma come from? There should be a sticker in the door jam with the info.

Mine came from Baja Mexico. I checked my hood and everything seems to be glued on securely.

 

Mine came from Texas. Born October 2015.

 

What dealer do you use?

 

Holy Chit!

 

Baja/October

 

Thanks. If we can compile a list maybe tell where when the bad batches hoods originated from. Baja/ September 15th no issues

 

Today I was looking at my hood more closely. I got a Magic Eraser foam pad and ripped it into about 1" squares and placed them between the metal ribs and the hoods outter skin. It was a snug fit but didn't cause the outer skin to bulge out.

I took the truck for a drive at high speed and over rough terrain and it eliminated the vibrating and looked solid.

This will not be my fix but for me proved that with the right adhesive it will eliminate my hoods vibrating issues.

I also looked more closely at my hood and every single adhesive contact point has failed.

My opinion is the dealership needs to get the correct adhesive from Toyota and reapply it. If it adheres and does not separate then we're good to go. If it doesn't then Toyota needs to provide an alternate adhesive. It should NOT be up to the dealership to come up with a solution.

My $0.02.

Oh, and I'd not leave any temp solutions (foam, etc) in your hood when taking it to get it fixed. They may cry foul.


Added: This may not be said very well, but here goes. The gap between the ribs and butter skin is already there, with out the applied foam. The gap in those areas is about a one inch gap and it's not easy pushing the rib up to the ouster skin to close the gap (i.e. closing the gap between the two areas of adhesive that have separated. This makes me wonder if there's a size defect in either the ouster skin or the ribbed layer. Maybe a metal shrinkage problem in the processing of the parts. Who knows, I'm not educated in the process, just wondering why there's such a wide gap. For all I know the adhesive was fine but didn't have the load bearing properties to hold the two together if there was an error in the metal parts.

 

I have a hard time believing this condition is 'normal' as some have stated. The hood vibration was bad enough that it was visually distracting to me, never a good thing to have while driving. My hood is holding up well since I had the new adhesive applied at my dealers body shop last week.

 

Well stated. That about sums it up.

 

My hood does not vibrate but it has those "black rubber", not those flesh colored "foam". So those black rubber probably adheres well to the hood compared to the other one.

 

Toyota does not yet have an adhesive for the body shops to use so right now they are on their own for the fix. I got that information yesterday when I picked up my truck, the body manager was explaining how my truck was the first they have fixed but that they and toyota are well aware of the problem now.

 

I wouldn't really be concerned with a cheaper/easier route than a hood replacement. I'd be more concerned with the hood they order having the same adhesive used and have the same outcome. I'd push for an inspection on the new hood or see if they can try a different adhesive until they come up with the best fix.

 

My adhesive was spec'd by a Toyota field rep with supposedly 30+ years on Toyotas.

 

Can you post a picture.

Thanks

 

ABBA ZABA YOU MY ONLY FRIEND!!!!!

 

I called the body shop back today and found out that, yes, the dealership will be the one painting the new hood. When I asked about factory vs. dealership paint job, he said I'd get a better warranty with their's over factory. I can't do anything else about it at this point so I'm not going to let myself worry until if/when it's necessary.

 

As long as they don't subcontract their paint work out to Earl Scheib or Maaco, you should be OK