Hoping a valve adjustment will suffice...

I don't get the lobe indents. Hope the cams are ok. Those shims are hard. Wonder if truck was run on some filthy oil in a past life.

 

Hope it's not time for some LCE cams....

Once upon a time it was ran with some dirty dino oil. Of the last couple years I went m1 and OEM filters. Since I started these long commutes I go about 6.5k miles, all highway, between changes and the oil still looks good. Black, but good. With dino oil I'd go 2-3k miles at the most.

 

Cleaned the intake mani today. I’ve never seen one with so much carbon build up. I had deleted the EGR a year or so ago but there was still a giant stalactite dangling from that port. Found a gallon jug of SuperClean at the parts house this morning and it did wonders. A case of carb cleaner would’ve been faster though. Deleted the charcoal box from the EVAP while I was in the engine bay swapping fuel filters. Not gonna route that back to the intake and will just stick a little filter on it and vent to atmosphere. Scraped the head gasket remnants off, too. Ordered the parts that’ll get here tomorrow afternoon and I’ll swing by the machine shop with them and the cams. Hopefully he’ll get done by Friday evening and I’ll be back on the road by Saturday afternoon.

 

Shop took longer than expected. They didn’t get done until Tuesday. 16 new valves, guides, seals, and seats. They requested the cams and set all the lash for me but charged another $100 for that. I had planned on doing it myself but they wouldn’t take the head back should something burn up again. So now it’s on them.

I’ve got a new clutch, clutch plate, and related bits to go in. With the head removed those difficult bolts on top of the bell housing are within arms reach. So I’ll do that before reinstalling the head. I’ve got leaking front/rear seals as well. So I’ll change those, too. Thinking of deleting those anti-vibration cam things on the 3rz while I’m there. Gonna do all the fluids, too.

Problem is I won’t have a chance to start until Christmas due to work schedule. So parts are ordered.

Any other suggestions?

 

Have you checked the rear axle seals?/adjusted the rear brakes?

Otherwise have enjoyed the thread thoroughly.

 

Forgot that brakes front and rear are on my list, too. The axle seals aren’t leaking yet.

 

I have a set of Wheeler’s Offroad 5 leaf pack springs and they’re starting to sag under the weight of my topper after nearly 9 years. I kept the old OEM leaf springs with an AAL in them. I’m thinking of splitting both leaf packs and making a redneck Dakar using leaves from each one if they measure out right. Removing the overload one would free up room for 2 additional leaves using stock U bolts.

Gonna at least do shackle bushings.

 

Did you order the plastic cups that fit into the head where the injectors go? Some people forget about them.

I'd double check the valve clearances after you get the head and after you install it. At least you'll have a record of the clearances to compare to later on.

 

Yep. I forgot those. Even tried to prize one out and cracked it. Got a source offhand?

 

Googling the balance shaft delete poor boy mod and there appears to be a hitch in it. The tensioner for the b shafts has the squirted for the timing chain as well as the B shaft chain. It may need to be modified and reran.

 

Toyota. They always break when you try to get them out. And get the o-rings that go between the cup and head, and the grommets and o-rings for the injectors.

These are the related parts. Parts number are for a 96 2RZ, but may be the same for the 99 3RZ.

 

Not really following why you want to delete. That's not even popular to do to sportbikes unless drag race only.

 

Thanks.

 

I figured since I’ll already be that far into changing the front seal I may as well get rid of them since I’ll have everything off to do it. Not a daily but a highway commuter and a toy. Everything I e read and watched say the vibrations aren’t that bad. The bearings they ride on are a wear point and several have had them fail. Not many, but some. With me doing 1000 mile commutes it’s seeing a lot of rotating hours and mid to high RPMs maintaining 70-80mph speeds.

This is the video that sold me on it.
https://youtu.be/qqmqDHOMxNo

 

If you're worried about bearing wear and have to remove them to turn them around, why not change them?

You're talking about running it in the RPM range they do the most good and isn't cracking a tensioner part one of the worries of the 4 cyl.?

I remember trying stuff though and didn't like the idea of extra moving parts when they came out w/ balance shafts.

 

I’m not over concerned with bearing failure as I didn’t know they existed until a month or so back.

The 2rz doesn’t have them but likely doesn’t shake as bad with the smaller crank counter weights. I think it’ll be fine.

I’ve always enjoyed stripping engines of non needed parts. I especially love looking at those at car shows with nothing but a motor there. All the wiring, fluid reservoirs, etc tucked in fenders and where ever.

 

This is turning into a money pit of rare maintenance. Injector cups, injector “O rings”, leaf spring bolts...all ordered today.

For the balance shaft delete I’ve got a pair of m5 drill bits and a sack of m6 grub screws ordered to plug the one oil port. All gaskets are in my garage as well as the clutch kit.

May as well do the timing guides and chain while there, too.

 

I emailed LC about purchasing individual kit parts, namely the T chain oil squirter, and he said yes. I questioned even doing this to mine and what I do with mine. He said he’d do the balance shaft delete on every 3rz he dealt with. So there ya go, folks. From the horse’s mouth of a reputable tuner.

 

Moving future posts here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/1999-tacoma-rebuild-over-the-years.371619/page-2