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how do you do just a "small" lowering kit?

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by keakar, May 25, 2015.

  1. May 25, 2015 at 6:24 AM
    #1
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    karl
    louisiana
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    2006 4runner sport 4.7L V8 (white)
    used to have - 99 2.4L I4 5 lug & 04 prerunner v6
    part 1 of my question is about options for lowering the truck:

    I wanted to drop level the back of the truck 1.5"-2" at the most but trying for 1.5" drop. I think that would put it at the perfect ergonomic height for getting in and out naturally without excess leg lift.

    problem is, I found out it cant be done only with lowering shackles like with other trucks because the design of the Tacoma truck has the stock shackles at its absolute shortest limits already.

    what I am wondering is if I flipped the axle to get a 3" drop (a real PITA) and then used 1.5" "lift" shackles to get me back up where I want to be (seams like a whole lot of work for not much change), will this change ride quality in a positive or negative way?

    part 2 of my question is strictly about the ride quality:

    regardless of changing the truck height, im wondering if the short stock shackles are the main reason for the washboard stiff suspension and if that is the case, would using longer shackles give the leafs the ability to flex more and soften or at least reduce the solidness of the suspension any and give the suspension a much softer feeling ride then stock since there is more ability for it to flex? this could be done with an axle flip for 3" drop and then 3" lift shackles used to bring it back to the original ride height.

    I would like to smooth out the ride if I can but im not looking to give up any payload capacity
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2015
  2. May 25, 2015 at 6:41 AM
    #2
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    lewisporte Newfoundland
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    cxracing turbo, fic6, methanol injection, 5100s/eibachs, skyjacker leafs, rear 5125s, no-slip rear locker, 35" grabber x3, magnaflow muffler, throttle body spacer, retrofit headlights, trans cooler, bed lined exterior, excessive stereo etc...
    not many options for 6 luggers for the rear. you can remove overload and bottom smallest leaf from pack and see what that gives you. Not sure how much is involved in going spring under axle like the 5 luggers but that would probably be best.
     
  3. May 25, 2015 at 6:45 AM
    #3
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    lewisporte Newfoundland
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  4. May 25, 2015 at 7:00 AM
    #4
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    yep, but that strips away all your payload capacity.

    I was just looking at the link devinzz1 posted and seeing all what is involved and then realizing the axles would not just be a simple flip and reinstall. they would have to be realigned with the drivetrain angles and new leaf perches welded on.

    otherwise I could just get a 5 lugger axle from a salvaged truck that's already set up for it and that's the simplest way if I decide to do an axle flip because whatever I do, I was just hoping for a simple bolt on solution to do myself in my driveway.

    still be curious to know if doing it would soften the suspensions washboard feel? if not, I cant see the point of doing it since I could get creative with different tires to get a lower stance rather then tear into the heart of the rear suspension.

    im old and just tired of banging my feet on the sill plate all the time
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2015
  5. May 25, 2015 at 7:53 AM
    #5
    devinzz1

    devinzz1 Well-Known Member

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    that kit is bolt on. no welding required. i think it would be easier than swapping in a 5 lug axle. think worst part would be removing leafs to get them under the axle. does your truck have a set of steps already?
     
  6. May 25, 2015 at 8:49 AM
    #6
    roehoe72

    roehoe72 Well-Known Member

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    Just put a little crane in the bed...!
     
  7. May 25, 2015 at 2:32 PM
    #7
    keakar

    keakar [OP] Well-Known Member

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    that or platform shoes or even let the air out of the tires to get in it.

    the rest of it yes, but even though it says welding is not "required" I think its pretty darn shade tree to not weld the critical stress point like the axle flanges, how else would it be able to prevent the axle from rotating when you floor it? im not going to rely on just having extra tight ubolts holding it from turning in the bracket.

    as to steps, no, I always hated steps on a truck
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2015

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