How hard is it to change a 4WD actuator on a 2nd Gen?

One of my 4WD actuators is F-bombed. Not sure if it's the one on the transfer case or the front differential yet.

In either case, is this something I can do myself? I have all the tools and shit, but no lift.

Thanks for any replies.

 

The one on the front ADD is easy.

Not sure about the one on the transfer case as I have not done one. I have read everything from the need to split the transfer case because two circlips needing to be removed, to its doable by leaving the shift rod in place and removing/replacing the actuator and attaching to the shift rod insitu.

Doing some diagnostics before part replacement would be the best thing. In terms of failure rates the front ADD has the highest failure do to water intrusion.

 

I don’t have an answer to your question but swapping the transfer case to a manual t case from an FJ cruiser has been done numerous times and is pretty easy. I got one in mine, just another option

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lets-see-your-fj-case-swap.455278/page-122#post-26567227

 

If you want to swap the whole transfer case actuator out including shift rod you’ll need to remove the case and take apart, not hard but fairly time consuming. The front ADD is one connector and 4 bolts, very easy.

 

Turns out it’s the one on the front diff.

 

Transfer case actuator you can leave shaft in (if you're sure the shaft isn't boogered up)and just replace motor, but make sure you time it right when putting it back together! There's a diagram I found on this site that shows the contacts in the cap and their correct orientation. Can be done in about 15 minutes. Front diff actuator is just a pain because of where it's bolted on.

 

Diagrams and excellent info here.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-system-operation-help-thread.742420/

 

That's the info I used TnShooter...very good info indeed!

 

Very helpful replies. Thanks, guys!

 

I got a new OEM front ADD from a dealer online. is there something I should solder in it to prevent this from happening again?

Thanks.

 

I’d be more concerned about the vent tube being in good shape than soldering the motor in.
The majority of the time, it’s corrosion on the limit switch contacts that cause the problem.
Which is usually traced back to the vent tube or a failed gasket.

 

Job done. 4WD is now working. Thanks for the replies, guys.