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How: Interior Canopy Light

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by MapleMoose, Jul 3, 2011.

  1. Jul 3, 2011 at 12:08 AM
    #1
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose [OP] Drunk Canadian

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    3" Eibach Coils, 3" AP Springs, AP 6" Shackles Toytec Diff drop, BAMF Sliders, Deck plate mod,Volt meter, Highbeam mod, PIAA fogs, 18" Magnaflow, LED dash swap, Color matched Satoshi Grille, Custom Rear Plate Bumper
    This is just a simple and affordable way to install a light inside your canopy/cap. (Sorry for the bad quality pics, it got late... Get more tomorrow)

    It costs about $30

    [​IMG]



    This is what you will need:

    -Rv light/dome light/led lighting strips
    -In-line fuse
    -15 amp fuse
    -10 feet of 12 Ga black wire
    -5 feet of 14-12 Ga white wire
    -Wire stripper/crimper
    -Butt connectors, round connects, connecting clips, and quick connects
    -Electrical tape


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I put the in-line fuse holder near the battery next to all the other fuses for easy access.

    [​IMG]


    You need 12 Ga wire whenever you are doing 10 ft length of wire. I ran it all the way to rear left tail light. I put a bolt through the underside body for the ground. (you can also run a ground from the battery but this is way eaiser) Make sure you get a good ground. Use a tester.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I ran it up into the tail light and out next to the tail gate.

    [​IMG]

    Then just cut the wires after the tail gate and put some quick connects so you can take your canopy off. Mount your light and secure the wires. Done!

    :cool:
     
  2. Jul 3, 2011 at 1:30 AM
    #2
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    mike
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    Thanks for the write up, looks easy enough to do. One question for you though. How did you mount the light to the shell? Did you glue it in or bolt it through the roof?

    I have an LED dome light (https://www.professorled.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=2&products_id=60) that I had sitting around from a different project. I was thinking of just gluing it in, using something like 3M 5200 or an epoxy, assuming I never need to change the LED bulb in it.
     
  3. Jul 3, 2011 at 9:43 AM
    #3
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose [OP] Drunk Canadian

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    There should be some mounting holes on every light. I just put two screw through the holes into the aluminum frame at the rear. If your mounting to the fiberglass, then maybe epoxy is the choice.
     
  4. Jul 6, 2011 at 1:04 AM
    #4
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Well I just got done running all of the wires for the light. I will post some pictures tomorrow once I get the light installed. I decided I cut out a 1/4 inch thick piece of plywood and glue that to the shell and then screw the light into that. Might look a little funny, but compared to the outside of my shell you would think it looked professionally done :D
     
  5. Jul 6, 2011 at 12:08 PM
    #5
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose [OP] Drunk Canadian

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    Great! Id love to see some pics. Did you do a quick connect between the truck and canopy?
     
  6. Jul 7, 2011 at 1:26 AM
    #6
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Ok here it is. Had some minor issues getting the wires neat so it isn't 100% done. Everything I bought for this project I got at West Marine. I work there and the employee discount is very helpful for projects like this. I think I spent under 20 dollars for everything but the light, but I had that lying around for a few years from a different project.

    Here is what I used:

    Heatshrink butt connector - 3
    Heatshrink terminal connector - 2
    One 12v quick connect
    In-line fuse holder(ATC) - 1
    5-amp Fuse - 1
    20' 16 awg red wire(probably closer to 18')
    8' 16 awg black wire
    10 +/- zip ties
    2 cable tie holders
    Wire stripper/crimper
    Torch for heatshrink


    I went with 16 awg wire because this light is LED and only draws 1/4 amp on high. Also why I went with the 5 amp fuse instead of something larger. I ran the wire up through my driver side tail lamp and up through an existing hole in the rail for my inoperative canopy brake light wires(next project.) I also drilled into a metal piece behind the tail lamp for my ground.

    Instead of drilling into the shell, I cut out a disc from 1/2'' plywood and used a 5 minute epoxy made by West System to glue it to the ceiling. I had to use a bottle jack and a 4x4 to keep pressure on it while it dried. I then drilled my light into that.

    Materials:

    [​IMG]

    Fuse holder:

    [​IMG]


    Quick connector. I need to add some dielectric grease because my shell door doesn't make a great seal.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Here are a few shots. I took these at midnight up here and it is still bright as day out so I can't really test the brightness of the light yet. Ignore the two other wires you can see in this picture. Those are to my brake light.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Jul 7, 2011 at 10:53 AM
    #7
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose [OP] Drunk Canadian

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    Nice work!! I like that quick connect, ill have to pick one up soon. I also need some of those sticky zip-tie holders.
     
  8. Jul 7, 2011 at 5:51 PM
    #8
    ffirg

    ffirg Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! The quick connector is kind of pricey but I think it will do a good job. Not the best for waterproof, but it is under a shell so who cares! Be sure to really clean the area before applying those zip tie holders. I did not do a great job and one came off already. I need to sand the fiberglass and clean it up and try again.
     
  9. Aug 5, 2011 at 6:17 PM
    #9
    beedoola

    beedoola Well-Known Member

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    bump with a question.

    I recently used the methods posted above: ran an inline fuse/12 gauge wire to the rear drive side light, up into my shell to power the two lights back there.

    My question was regarding the safest/optimum place to run the power wire.

    I ran it from the battery, along side the engine compartment driver side wall, down the firewall and then used a few zip lights - lightly securing the power wire, to the brake lines that are mounted to the frame and then eventually using the zip tie method to attach the wire to the rear light conduit that runs along the frame.

    My concern was the wiring being close to the fuel tank. As I mentioned, I ran the wire along with the other wires conduit for the rear lightening, I made sure the wire was in between any metal that could accidentally sandwich it and short it with ground.

    Any thoughts? Thanks!
     
  10. Aug 5, 2011 at 7:31 PM
    #10
    MapleMoose

    MapleMoose [OP] Drunk Canadian

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    3" Eibach Coils, 3" AP Springs, AP 6" Shackles Toytec Diff drop, BAMF Sliders, Deck plate mod,Volt meter, Highbeam mod, PIAA fogs, 18" Magnaflow, LED dash swap, Color matched Satoshi Grille, Custom Rear Plate Bumper
    Should be fine. As long as you ran it along all your rear wiring its safe. And 12 GA wiring is pretty thick so it would take alot to cause a short.
     
  11. Aug 5, 2011 at 7:53 PM
    #11
    beedoola

    beedoola Well-Known Member

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    Cool thanks!
     
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