How-To: 2012 complete DTLT // URD y-pipe install

If my memory serves me correct, the 6 studs on the the header have either an indent for a hex head or have flat spots for a wrench. The wrench is smaller than 8mm, I have a set of mini-wrenches that I tried untill I found the right size. Unfortunately I dont know what size it is off hand but the sandwich method that @TheFang suggested would work too. Just be careful to not strip the threads out in the block, otherwise you'll have to tap those threads.

I misread, the nuts worked themselves off just fine. Granted I had less that 10k miles on the truck at that point. PB Blast or an application of the blue torch should help to break the torque on those nuts. I also only used hand tools since I didn't have a compressor at that point. You can jerry-rig wrenches together to make a breaker bar so to speak. Where you interlink another wrench through the box head to extend the effective length of the wrench. Itll be tight in there but you should be able to pull it off. Its been over 4 days since you posted so I'm assuming that all is well.

-J

 

Yeah my nuts are 110k miles old. They are all heavily corroded and weakened to to lots of heating and cooling. I'm taking them off 1 at a time and replacing with new hardware in preparation for the actual install. I got a 5.5 mm on a stud I cleaned off.

 

I'm gonna be ignorant, and I hope someone can give a good explanation, but what exactly do the O2 sims do?? Are they required only to keep the cel light off. I have the headers, I have the manifold spacer on the way. I have sims to get, but just looking for wheather I really do or do not need them. Thanks TW!!!

 

Yup the o2 sims just removes the cel but if you have a 14-15 it’s a hit or miss if the o2 sim would work and that’s straight from gadget from urd.

 

From what I gather, since the Custom Tacos FSM page was down yesterday is as follows: When you start your truck up, sometime after approximately 5-15 minutes has passed, the truck will run a self diagnostic on most of the sensors in the truck. If my memory serves me correctly, the rear O2 sensor when everything is running correctly will read approximately 1.05 - 1.1v which signals a healthy catalytic converter. Of course, there's more factors that go into it, such as altitude, fuel grade, air pressure, temperature, ect ect .. but bottom line, a healthy sim O2 sensor reads a steady voltage and will report a steady voltage. Now, if you have done stuff to your Cats, IE removed them, then your sim will read a different voltage, which will throw a code such as the P0420 or P0430. The vehicle expected a certain volt, received a different volt so it threw the code. The Sim will level out the voltage fluctuations through whatever electronic wizardry is built into the circuit board and this will constantly send a fake "good" voltage to the trucks computer hence tricking the truck into not throwing those specific codes. Does that make sense?

-J

 

DEDAFLO670, hey, thanks...
JUSTADDMUD; ok, now I gets it... Again, thanks.Did you get to see the video with Magnaflow x-pipe??

 

I responded to your PM and info you, if you'd like to tag someone in your post, just type the '@' symbol followed by their name such like @Dvst8r1K. Use this if you don't want to use the quote function from the specific poster in question otherwise they wont get a notification in their alerts.


-J

 

Thanks to everyone that had anything to do with this LT-Header thread. Extremely helpful and insightful. I think the mod is an easy install, but tedious and annoying a/f. The only thing I did different was coat my gaskets that copper spray gasket stuff. Also, before buying sims, I merely double stacked them lil silver thread chasers or whatever they're called. No cel, and I even ran a scan on scangauge 2 and ok this far.
The double stack nut trick to pull the head bolts out was one of the best tips I've ever used.
Thanks again everyone here, and on TW. Exactly what forums should be like. Hail to the, Bros of the Taco!!!!
(Now for that x-pipe, lol)!!!

 

@JustAddMud /Shit!!! You mean you reused the silver gaskets/seals that were between header and block?? Damn, I didn't reinstall. I just used the gaskets from the kit. DAMN!!!!

 

Keep in mind that I only had somewhere in the ballpark of 5k miles on the vehicle at that time and when I inspected the metal header gasket, the condition was still very good so I opted to reuse. As far as I remember, my new headers didn't come with new header seals or gaskets for the exhaust gas re-circulation tubes either. And I believe the instructions for the DTLT headers said to reuse, I think you mentioned that you have a different brand of headers that may have required you to use the included hardware instead of retaining the preexisting seal. You should be good to go bud, refer to the install instructions that came with your headers to double check. Hope that helps.

-J

 

-J,
Thanks again man. I used the gasket that came with the headers, then the air re-circulation I did re-use. That one didn't come with anything new in the package. For 111,000 (pretty close) it all looked pretty damn good. I should've re-used them, but the headers are built with a flange of sorts to fit like a glove. Ok, maybe things aren't so bad, but I may have to fork out that dough for the sims. . Oh well. Of all things, Baby-Vader has to pass inspection this month.. Lol!!! Thanks again.. Appreciate it greatly!!!