How to: AC outlet in cab + 400 Watt Anytime Mod 2nd gen

Was it ever decided if all tacomas are pre-wired for inverters? I don't have an inverter, but I did notice disconnected wires that would have plugged into the switches behind the factory blanks in my truck while I was doing an OTRATTW switches mod.

 

You could also check if the correct plug for the inverter is sitting below your shifter. if it is, i would be willing to bet that it is indeed there. takes about 60 seconds to check

 

I'm a new member and this is my first mod.

 

Nice

 

I'm going to add an outlet to the back of my console aswell. I got the outlets and the usb/input jack for less than $20 on Amazon.

 

Welcome to TW!


I like this one it'll snap into the consol for a clean install. I also like the cover and the power on LED. Just happens to be a Ford part.

 

Great Mod! Did this last weekend. Decided to go with a 2 prong instead of 3. Works great for the cell phones and laptop.






Went with a receptacle from a Chrysler Part # 56046933AA.

 

I added a 120 socket inside my console when i was adding my Dual 12v to USB outlet in there as well. Came out SLICK.

 

Heres what i did in my truck. 6 pin plug allows me to remove the center console easily if necessary. Ran 12v constant hot from an add a circuit off the fuse for the 12v sockets in the dash (the fuse is always hot, stock sockets get turned on via the relay on the back of the fuse block).

Ran the 12v hot to a switch (on the rear, frontward facing surface), then over to the dual usb power outlet i put in on the front, reward facing surface of the center console. Figured while i was in there, pop a 120v socket in there as well, and do the 400w anytime mod. Everything came out slick.

I ran the usb charger off a constant hot as i wanted to be able to charge my phone without the truck on, switch was put in place to be able to turn off the dual usb when not in use (though there is probably hardly any parasitic draw from it)

Rear of the switch and 120v socket


Wiring running under the console along the side


Rear of the dual USB charger


Inside the console, 120v socket and 12v switch (frontward facing back surface)


dual USB charger (rear facing front surface)


And pics of the plug setup.

 

Very nice. And clean install. Will definitely be doing this over a power inverter

 

This the same for the 3rd gen?

 

Why are you contaminating a 2nd gen thread with a 3rd gen question?

Never mind, I don't want to know.

 

I was gonna ask why you're always a douche, but nevermind I don't wanna know.

 

OK, so I am a dumba$$ when it come to electric stuff. Am I to understand that I can splice in a 120v outlet with out using a power inverter? I have a 700w power inverter I have been wanting to install but I have held off because I did not know how to set it up so that when the key is off it will not kill the battery. I would love to have outlet in the cab and in the bed. I am also looking at doing an LED bed lite kit.

A little back story, I have a SR5 4x4. It is not a TRD so it does not have the bed plug. I am working on making my truck camping friendly and I want to plug stuff in.

 

You DO need an inverter to to splice in a 120V outlet. To run a 700W inverter you need a 6ga copper supply wire. You can place the outlets where ever you like. If you plan on running anything with a electric motor it's best to have a "true sine wave" inverter. Somethings will not run on the square wave that most (cheap) inverters put out.
I wouldn't worry about the LED bed lights running down your battery. Depending on the condition of your battery you could run the bed lights for a few hours before effecting the battery.

 

This is what I have, is this a good one?

Item#: SPM7573126003
Model#: 8074288

$86 Schumacher PI-750 750 Watt Analog Power Inverter

Schumacher PI-750 750 W Power Inverter
Features

• Convert 12 volt dc to 115 volt ac instantly wherever and whenever needed.
• Built-in, high-speed cooling fan helps keep the unit cool.
• On/off switch and LED indicator.
• 750 watts, with 1,500-watt peak surge power.
• Heavy duty clamps connect directly to vehicle battery.
• Used for running computers, faxes, cell phones, lights, power tools, tvs, vcrs, stereos, radios, cd players, blenders and portable vacuums in cars, trucks, boats, suvs and rvs.
• Dimension - 12.75 x 11.25 x 6.25 in.
• Item weight - 3.5 lbs.

- Ship Weight: 3.96 lbs.

 

It may be. I wouldn't buy it. Don't try plugging into your power port and running full load. It will blow the fuse, this has 76A full load current on the input side!
It is not a pure sine wave inverter. Pure sine waves are expensive. And this will not run anything that requires pure sine wave power, or if does run it, it is hurting it.

 

thats amps at 115 v.

assuming 100% efficiency. 750w @ 12v is 62.5amps.... you can assume its not 100% efficient, 90% if you are lucky.

 

Nope, cig. lighter is 12VDC. 1500/12=125A That is peak.

Yep

I got that 76A figure from the spec. sheet for the inverter shown.
Never wire around/without a fuse! Second leading cause of car fires is electrical issues!

 

no your right. I wasn't thinking I wasn't awake yet. I'm used to going from high to low not low to high. and the specs do say the modified sine waves ones need 10x the power two run at full wattage. so for a continues 750 you will need 75amp @12v dc. from the specs. ya 90% seems to be the normal with all the new ones. you might want to see if that one has a low voltage shut off switch, for one to keep from draining the battery to low and two keep from burning up what you have plugged in. to little power isn't good for some things.
dam that thing is a battery killer.it draws more then my winch. if it was me I would mount it as close to the battery as possible. the farther away the bigger the wire you will need to feed that beast. DC doesn't like to travel and you have more voltage drop, definitely don't forget to fuse the feed. like Rob said.