How to: Add Power Locks And a Keyless Entry System for 130$

This is the kit i used, its supposed to be one of the best aftermarket kits. (My key fob is all black no green buttons which i was very happy to see)
http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AEOS&Product_Code=W01C-712T

Well took a while about 5 hours maybe a little longer, i was taking my time and trying to make as clean of an install as possible, here's how i did mine.


Mounted bracket, stripped, plastic cover, wire, and more plastic to get to cable underneath.



Mounted bracket, actuator and bent rod linkage so its aligned with the cable bracket system.


same thing to other side



snake wires threw hole behind kick panel



Pulled both ends of the boot out to i can snake the wire threw easier, and disconnected speaker wire


Put wire threw door


Snake it up to actuator


Soldered both power wires from door lock harness and keyless entry harness together to 1 connector


Soldered the black blue wire from the keyless entry system to the brown wire on the actuator harness, this Unlocks The door. Then same thing with green/black to purple wire for locking.


Taped each wire up i soldered, then the whole bundle.


All grounds went here, to the bolt that holds the kick plate bracket in place.


I then put the keyless entry system here, all extra wires are tucked into a pocket behind where i put the keyless entry box. ( lots of extra wires in this pic, i have after market fog light harness stuffed in there as well as my scanguage 2 wire) The rest of the other harness (with blue relay) was stuffed into a spot under the steering wheel (making sure not to touch any moving parts) and zip tied to stay put.


Plugged the power wires i solderd into 1 connector into the "20a Dr Lck" socket



I then put everything back on, kickplate, running board cover, door panels, ect. works great. Only had 1 issue threw whole process. On the top right of the door panel is a triangle cover that covers the mirror bolts, it has 3 little white plastic clips, one you pop that cover out take the clips out by squeezing them. If you try to push the cover back on with them in the holes they will fall threw! so make sure you take them out and put them on the cover and not leave them in the holes when you reinstall them, i lost 2 clips had to use Velcro to keep them from falling out. Threw the whole process i made sure windows cleared the actuators and wires and made sure the actuators had a little play in them so they dont bind up. On the drivers side you may notice electrical tape on the cable. i put that there cause i didnt want the cable to hit the bracket and make noise. This is because i put the cable coming out of the top on the hole on the actuator and it was close to the bracket. on the passenger side i put it coming out of the bottom and it had more clearance, but i had already bent the driverside cable so i wasn't going to redo it.

 

Wow, great job. I did the power locks on my brand new 2005 work truck (in 2005) almost identically. Mine worked flawlessly for 3 1/2 years until I was laid off of my employment.

My co-worker did his work truck also but he knicked the inner cable with his dremmel tool and it broke in a couple of days. He replaced the cable on the company's dime and time lol.

Not one reply, such a great writeup and a great mod too. Crazy TW.

 

Thanks for the write up , I am using it to do my regular cab right now.
Just not finding much room the put the two boxes.
The mounting brackets for actuator A1 supplied are too short for my 2013. I cannot find any brackets locally, so at a standstill till I get them, with door all apart.

 

A car stereo install shop should have a lot of extra stereo backstraps laying around which is what I would try to find.

 

Found a bracket at a True Value store

 

Awesome.