How to best utilize 600w 4 channel amp in Access Cab

My factory speakers in my 2010 AC are dying so it's time for an upgrade. I have a 4 channel 600w Pioneer GM-6200f amp from my old car kicking around that I'd like to use in my Tacoma. I'm debating how to best utilize it, right now I'm considering three options:

1) install separate tweeters and woofers each running on their own channel - up to 60w rms each

Here the question is if standalone door woofers are available? I've been struggling to find any that aren't coaxials or components bundled with tweeters and crossovers.

2) install components on 2 channels and bridge the other 2 to run a small shallow mount sub.

I know this would probably provide the best sound but my issue with this option is I don't want to take up a lot of space with a sub box. I'd have to figure out a slick way to mount it. Is it possible under the passenger seat? Anybody got any ideas? I'm handy and am totally open to a fab project within reason. I don't want to tear apart a significant part of my interior to accommodate the sub (would be willing to give up a storage bin though) and don't want to give up rear seating - I have too many bum friends without cars.

3) keep it simple and just bridge the amp and run a set of higher wattage components. Up to 150w rms each

I like the simplicity of this option but in a small vehicle like an access cab am I going to see any benefits from higher power components?

I plan on running this off the factory head unit for now, I am going to upgrade the head unit at a later time to spread out the cost. I mostly listen to rock and metal with some hip hop here and there. I'm looking for quality sound, I'm past my door rattling car alarm setting off system days. I want some decent volume but sound quality is a much higher priority.

One other question, I scored a ton of dynamat from work so I'll definitely be doing the doors. Is is worth the hassle of doing the floor too?

 

I would go with 2 and see how it sounds.

If you have to pull out the seats, you might as well dynamat the floor( if you want to spend the time). Dynamating the doors is going to make the biggest difference.

 

option 3 all the way. The rest is a waste of time and money.
1) requires a processor to do right
2) just a bad option because you don't have near enough power to really make anything work decently

 

I would go with option 2. That cab is small and if your amp is tuneable I would go with components like the Focal 165s that have dual crossovers and can tune the tweeters separate from the woofers. Bridge the additional channels and run a set of coaxials that are bass-oriented because if you don't want see the sub you won't get a good option for under the seat. And sound deaden the shite out of your cab!

 

I'm running #2. It's called '3-channel' mode. It rocks. I built a box for an 8" sub and put it in my center console. Not much space lost, and the bass from a single 8" sub really rounds out the system. I think it's better than runing more watts to your component speakers and making them do the deep bass too...

There's a pre-made Alpine 8" sub in a small box that you could stash somewhere in there without loosing much space if you don't want to build your own sub box

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/lp/p...boxes/sbrs84?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc

Edit: checkout my thread to see the dimensions on my sub box

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...4-ch-amp-homegrown-stealthbox-install.347879/