How to Bleed Brakes

I know this topic has been posted before and talked about, but I have been unable to find a solution. I replaced my front brakes today and had to crack open the lines in the process. I bled the front brakes first and now have bled all four brakes twice (from longest brake line to shortest) and I still have spongy brakes. Has anyone found the proper way to bleed brakes on the 3rd gens? Any help is appreciated.

 

Probably air in the abs module...

 

I found this:
(use at your own risk)

 

Take it to the dealer and pay $120 for a fluid flush.

I don’t mess with trying to bleed brakes anymore manually. Let the machine take care of it, I’ve never had a spongy pedal after a pressurized machine flushes the lines.

I’ve heard you can also use a reverse bleeder; they supposedly don’t require tech stream to enable the abs pump
This one:

$53 Phoenix Systems (2104-B) V-5 Reverse Brake Bleeder, Light Duty One Person, Fits all makes and models

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GRV800S/

 

why did you have to do the above did you replace the entire caliper, not just the pads and rotors? need to know in case i ever decide to do mine.

 

I watched videos that showed people not removing the caliper and just pushing the pistons in to make room for the new pad, but this didn’t work for me. I was lacking a few tools, so I removed the caliper and cracked open the lines to allow the pistons to easily be pressed in. I’ve done this with other vehicles and easily bled the brake lines, but it isn’t working so well on my Tacoma.

 

I like to use a foot or two of acquarium air line with a check valve in it. The check valve means you don't have to crack it loose, push & hold the pedal, then tighten. With the chck valve you can just pump the pedal. Sometimes the bleeder screw will leak on the threads. If that happens, take it out and put a little thread tape on it.

 

When you say you cracked the line. You cracked the line where attached to the caliper or you cracked the bleeder?

 

hey try this. the master cylinders on these newer trucks have more systems involved that previous setups.

0. ensure you didn't forget to connect or tighten anything.
1. turn key to the on position(or press the button twice without your foot on the pedal)
2. have assistant depress brake pedal(should hear mechanical pump noise)
3. assistant hold pressure on the pedal
4. bleed in that the line from longest to shortest. (make sure to keep the reservoir full)

should go by pretty quick.
I learned this after my 04 runner wouldn't bleed, and it was similar when i did my SS brake lines on my 18 OR. it had some fancy electronic system tied into it. when i turned to key to the on position and pressed the brakes its instantly built a ton more pressure at the pedal. then when i went to bleed them i was able to evacuate all of the air.

 

Cracked the line on the caliper

 

I have performed this process 4 times now and still have spongy brakes. They may have gotten a little better, but it’s hard to tell.

 

I couldn't agree more. To let them change the fluid and take responsibility in case something is done incorrectly (to say nothing of the value of your time) is well worth $120 in my opinion!

Ed

 

That’s now my plan. I have scheduled maintenance at the dealer today anyways. I just don’t like not knowing how to fix a problem I created. Thanks for the input.

 

Probably where the issue arrived from. Should have cracked the bleeder. Betting there is air in the caliper.

 

I think having the dealer knock it out while you’re there getting other maintenance done is the safest bet.

next time you do brakes do this instead to avoid this issue all together:

1.Remove a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
2.Compress the piston(s) evenly. (I use the old pad and a c-clamp) this will allow you to fit the new pads over the rotor. The process will back feed the fluid into the reservoir. No air should be able to enter the line.

 

I agree. This is usually what I do, but I didn’t have any c-clamps to hold one side while I compressed the other.

 

Be aware this is for the vacuum boosted systems. The process for the hydraulic booster of the OR and PRO includes steps to cycle the ignition to bleed the pump and accumulator.

 

Get yourself a Motive pressure bleeder. Not much better for the price.

 

What I do is compress one side completely then throw the new pad on that side then do the other side. That way I don’t even need a c clamp I just use a screwdriver and the old pad