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How to Bleed Brakes

Discussion in '3rd Gen. Tacomas (2016+)' started by BlancoTaco13, Feb 21, 2020.

  1. Feb 21, 2020 at 2:41 PM
    #1
    BlancoTaco13

    BlancoTaco13 [OP] Active Member

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    I know this topic has been posted before and talked about, but I have been unable to find a solution. I replaced my front brakes today and had to crack open the lines in the process. I bled the front brakes first and now have bled all four brakes twice (from longest brake line to shortest) and I still have spongy brakes. Has anyone found the proper way to bleed brakes on the 3rd gens? Any help is appreciated.
     
  2. Feb 21, 2020 at 3:21 PM
    #2
    Ronzio

    Ronzio Well-Known Member

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    Probably air in the abs module...
     
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  3. Feb 21, 2020 at 3:34 PM
    #3
    Hobbs

    Hobbs 2013 DCLB $18,500. FOR SALE!

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    I found this:
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  4. Feb 21, 2020 at 3:34 PM
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    SearArtist

    SearArtist Player Hater #001

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    Yes.
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  5. Feb 21, 2020 at 4:27 PM
    #5
    kahanabob

    kahanabob Well-Known Member

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    why did you have to do the above did you replace the entire caliper, not just the pads and rotors? need to know in case i ever decide to do mine.
     
  6. Feb 21, 2020 at 6:07 PM
    #6
    BlancoTaco13

    BlancoTaco13 [OP] Active Member

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    I watched videos that showed people not removing the caliper and just pushing the pistons in to make room for the new pad, but this didn’t work for me. I was lacking a few tools, so I removed the caliper and cracked open the lines to allow the pistons to easily be pressed in. I’ve done this with other vehicles and easily bled the brake lines, but it isn’t working so well on my Tacoma.
     
  7. Feb 21, 2020 at 7:28 PM
    #7
    ksJoe

    ksJoe Well-Known Member

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    I like to use a foot or two of acquarium air line with a check valve in it. The check valve means you don't have to crack it loose, push & hold the pedal, then tighten. With the chck valve you can just pump the pedal. Sometimes the bleeder screw will leak on the threads. If that happens, take it out and put a little thread tape on it.
     
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  8. Feb 21, 2020 at 7:35 PM
    #8
    gotoman1969

    gotoman1969 Well-Known Member

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    When you say you cracked the line. You cracked the line where attached to the caliper or you cracked the bleeder?
     
  9. Feb 21, 2020 at 7:45 PM
    #9
    newskooler

    newskooler Well-Known Member

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    hey try this. the master cylinders on these newer trucks have more systems involved that previous setups.

    0. ensure you didn't forget to connect or tighten anything.
    1. turn key to the on position(or press the button twice without your foot on the pedal)
    2. have assistant depress brake pedal(should hear mechanical pump noise)
    3. assistant hold pressure on the pedal
    4. bleed in that the line from longest to shortest. (make sure to keep the reservoir full)

    should go by pretty quick.
    I learned this after my 04 runner wouldn't bleed, and it was similar when i did my SS brake lines on my 18 OR. it had some fancy electronic system tied into it. when i turned to key to the on position and pressed the brakes its instantly built a ton more pressure at the pedal. then when i went to bleed them i was able to evacuate all of the air.
     
  10. Feb 22, 2020 at 3:57 AM
    #10
    BlancoTaco13

    BlancoTaco13 [OP] Active Member

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    Cracked the line on the caliper
     
  11. Feb 22, 2020 at 3:59 AM
    #11
    BlancoTaco13

    BlancoTaco13 [OP] Active Member

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    I have performed this process 4 times now and still have spongy brakes. They may have gotten a little better, but it’s hard to tell.
     
  12. Feb 22, 2020 at 5:22 AM
    #12
    EdFlecko

    EdFlecko Well-Known Member

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    I couldn't agree more. To let them change the fluid and take responsibility in case something is done incorrectly (to say nothing of the value of your time) is well worth $120 in my opinion!

    Ed
     
  13. Feb 22, 2020 at 5:57 AM
    #13
    BlancoTaco13

    BlancoTaco13 [OP] Active Member

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    That’s now my plan. I have scheduled maintenance at the dealer today anyways. I just don’t like not knowing how to fix a problem I created. Thanks for the input.
     
  14. Feb 22, 2020 at 6:56 AM
    #14
    gotoman1969

    gotoman1969 Well-Known Member

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    Probably where the issue arrived from. Should have cracked the bleeder. Betting there is air in the caliper.
     
  15. Feb 22, 2020 at 9:09 AM
    #15
    newskooler

    newskooler Well-Known Member

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    I think having the dealer knock it out while you’re there getting other maintenance done is the safest bet.

    next time you do brakes do this instead to avoid this issue all together:

    1.Remove a little bit of brake fluid from the reservoir.
    2.Compress the piston(s) evenly. (I use the old pad and a c-clamp) this will allow you to fit the new pads over the rotor. The process will back feed the fluid into the reservoir. No air should be able to enter the line.
     
  16. Feb 22, 2020 at 10:29 AM
    #16
    BlancoTaco13

    BlancoTaco13 [OP] Active Member

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    I agree. This is usually what I do, but I didn’t have any c-clamps to hold one side while I compressed the other.
     
  17. Feb 22, 2020 at 10:46 AM
    #17
    mattleg

    mattleg Well-Known Member

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    Be aware this is for the vacuum boosted systems. The process for the hydraulic booster of the OR and PRO includes steps to cycle the ignition to bleed the pump and accumulator.
     
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  18. Feb 22, 2020 at 10:56 AM
    #18
    iptman

    iptman Well-Known Member

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    Get yourself a Motive pressure bleeder. Not much better for the price.
     
  19. Feb 22, 2020 at 10:59 AM
    #19
    TacoJova

    TacoJova Well-Known Member

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    What I do is compress one side completely then throw the new pad on that side then do the other side. That way I don’t even need a c clamp I just use a screwdriver and the old pad
     
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