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How to Change a CV Axle on an 01-04 ADD Tacoma

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by JimBeam, Dec 15, 2008.

  1. Jan 14, 2011 at 3:22 PM
    #21
    ywen

    ywen Well-Known Member

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    hmm anyone can link to a video of "prying" a CV out of the diff? Sounds intimidating to me.. just want to know what to expect..
     
  2. Nov 6, 2011 at 4:15 PM
    #22
    JimBeam

    JimBeam [OP] BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Moderator

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    It will make life a LOT easier...i promise
     
  3. Nov 22, 2011 at 8:40 PM
    #23
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    Nice write-up! For anyone that's interested, here are the torque specifications.

    Hub nut: 174 ft-lbs
    Lower ball joint mounting nuts: 59 ft-lbs
    Lug nuts: 83 ft-lbs
     
  4. Jan 14, 2012 at 2:30 PM
    #24
    Jonyd182

    Jonyd182 What do you mean I can't go up there...Watch this!

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    Thanks Jeff,

    I used this as my guide today to change my driver side.

    I ran into a couple of issues. But, they were 100% my doing. Manual hub got a little dinged up. Took me way to long to to get the axle out. I could not find a good pry point so I just whacked the bar with some frustration and out it came.

    I'll be changing the passenger tomorrow and its a must to remove the skids if you have Bud Builts.
     
  5. Jan 14, 2012 at 2:37 PM
    #25
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    Just wanted to mention that my hub nut was a 35mm.
     
  6. Jan 14, 2012 at 7:13 PM
    #26
    JimBeam

    JimBeam [OP] BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Moderator

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    It seems that the nut size varies from year to year
     
  7. Jan 14, 2012 at 7:14 PM
    #27
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    Yeah I've been seeing lots of different answers.
     
  8. Feb 16, 2012 at 9:47 AM
    #28
    Rastamanty

    Rastamanty Member

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    New pina colada air freshener, de-badged, painted/modified and re-badged
    Getting ready to do mine. Dealership wants $520. O'reillys has them for $70 a piece with no core charge, new, lifetime warranty. Hope everything goes well!

    What does the ADD stand for?

    Correction, that dealership wanted $520 just to re-boot the thing. For new axles it was an additional $700 per side!

    Edit: Took a good look at it myself and found that the dealership grossly over exaggerated the damage "spewing grease everywhere".
    Turns out to be very small cuts. I'm planning on putting some more grease in and sealing it up with either a marine epoxy or shoe glue.
    That way I can keep my OEM's and ride.
     
  9. Feb 16, 2012 at 1:04 PM
    #29
    Jonyd182

    Jonyd182 What do you mean I can't go up there...Watch this!

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    Automatic Differential Disconnect.

    I did both sides last month. First side took 4 hours :anonymous: second side took 1 hour. Hardest part for me was removing the cap without damaging it and knowing how much force to use to remove the axle. Ending up just smacking the crap out of it with a crow bar and a BFH.
     
  10. Mar 1, 2012 at 5:20 PM
    #30
    unitmaster

    unitmaster Member

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    I changed the CV axle on my 2001 Tacoma today and used this thread as a guide. It was very helpful, everything was pretty close to what was posted. One thing that wasn't the same tho was a metal piece at the upper end of the axle that goes up to the differential kinda like another seal or spacer. It didn't come with my new one tho so I was just wondering if I did the right thing since I took it off the old one and put it on with the new one. The axle went in good, but it is leaking a few drops after I put it all back in. Quite a bit of diff oil came out when I was changing it so I'm hoping that is the reason why and not that I used the metal seal (spacer).
     
  11. Mar 2, 2012 at 7:08 AM
    #31
    Rastamanty

    Rastamanty Member

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    What brand was the new axle?
     
  12. Mar 2, 2012 at 9:05 AM
    #32
    unitmaster

    unitmaster Member

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    Its a duralast from Auto Zone. It was only 59 bucks which is why i got it. I know theres mixed reviews on em but it is a lifetime warranty, and beat the 240 toyota wanted. I hope it doesnt bite me in the ass. I did "reseat" into the diff this am so we'll see it that seals it up if not I'm gonna be SOL.
     
  13. Mar 6, 2012 at 1:13 PM
    #33
    unitmaster

    unitmaster Member

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    So I re did the whole installation and the axle has about an 1/8 of an inch of play in and out of the differential. I don't know why this is happening? Does anybody have an idea? Could it be because the cv axle I bought is not a genuine toyota part?
     
  14. Mar 6, 2012 at 6:11 PM
    #34
    Slodgetto

    Slodgetto Über Posre

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    That is normal as far as I can tell. Every single CV axle I've replaced had a bit of play in it out of the diff.
     
  15. Mar 6, 2012 at 9:09 PM
    #35
    Jdaniel1274

    Jdaniel1274 Well-Known Member

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    Very good Write-up, will using in the near future!
     
  16. Mar 7, 2012 at 8:31 AM
    #36
    Rastamanty

    Rastamanty Member

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    I used a set from O'reilly's called Master Pro for $70, no core charge.
    I have about an 1/8 gap from the end of the shaft to the diff housing. But no leakage at all and I didn't reuse any parts from the old OEM set. I would suggest taking a close up picture of the gap and post it.
     
  17. Mar 7, 2012 at 8:35 AM
    #37
    Rastamanty

    Rastamanty Member

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    So my OEM axles are still good, I just replaced them because of tears in the boots. What should I do with the OEM's? Should I reboot them and have a spare set, or do you think they would sell?
     
  18. Mar 7, 2012 at 8:36 AM
    #38
    JimBeam

    JimBeam [OP] BECAUSE INTERNETS!! Moderator

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    You probably cant get much for them with torn boots...every used CV i've bought has been good to go and I don't pay more than $50

    With that being said...i'd say reboot them and stick them in the garage in case the new ones fail
     
  19. Mar 14, 2012 at 4:16 PM
    #39
    RacerP

    RacerP Well-Known Member

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    Just did my CV's this weekend with new ones from AutoZone for $58 each no core.

    Went very smooth, but, will add this...

    In my case, take the spidertrax off, then had to also remove my ICONs, no way in hell I was going to have enough room to get the CV's in or out with the springs in the way.
     
  20. Apr 14, 2012 at 3:02 PM
    #40
    BigSurTaco

    BigSurTaco Member

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    My buddy and i are doing this today and one thing i did notice was that you don't mention anything about removing the swaybar which is nowhere to be seen in ur pics, but with it in the way you can't get the damn thing outta there. Just think you might want to mention that in this write up. although i may have missed something as i'm not too experienced.
     

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