How to Change a CV Axle on an 01-04 ADD Tacoma

Thanks for this great step by step process. I changed out my CV axle yesterday with no problems. Popped out of the diff just fine and snapped back in with one hammer blow. All good and no more ugly scraping noises from the front end.

 

If one were to damage that thin metal lip that meets up to the oil seal in the process of prying out the shaft, is there a place or part number to replace it? I managed to mangle mine, and now the seal won't stop leaking no matter what. The only way I've found to replace it is to get a whole new shaft.

 

Sub'd, looking to do this soon. Nice write up!

 

Great write up. I have a few "dumb" questions as I'm kind of a newb. I have everything taken apart and the new axels for both driver and passenger side.

Is there a difference between the axels? I can't see one, but I don't want to make a mistake.

When putting the axels back in, is there a proper position (top vs bottom) when putting them back in? My factory ones were round and the new ones are more of a triangle. I'm guessing no diff on this, but wanted to ask.

Should I put some axel grease on both ends of the axels when putting them back, or just the differential side?

My seals look good, but I feel like I should replace them just to be safe. There is a seal on the differential and on the wheel side right? Does anyone have the part numbers or suggestions on what to buy?

If I'm taking the seals out should I just replace the bearings too?

I follow directions well, I just don't have a ton experience to know what's right. Thanks for the help.

 

I wonder if this is whats wrong with my truck? So in reference to the 4 bolts that hold the hub piece to the lower control arm. I should be able to take that apart without messing with the struts?

 

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This write up is much appreciated. Just swapped the passenger side with a friend.

Not sure why but the 12mm socket for the screws under the spindle were 14mm for my truck. Same with the 36mm for the cotter pin nut was a 35mm.

 

yeah mine are 14mm. . doing a cv shaft today.

anybody notice that none of the aftermarket cv axles (autzone duralast and napa) have wheel bearing dust shields (abs ring)? Is the only way to get a proper replacement by paying for toyota OEM parts? ($173 vs 55)


as it turns out the napa new part has the shield, the remanufactured part does not.

 

Nice write up first of all how did you guys put in the new axle seal,I got a seal installing kit but it didn't seem like it worked for that type of seal..Second after replacing my CV axle I realized when rotating the tire there's a sticky spot where the tire seems to be harder to turn could this be due to my 3 inch lift.. thanks

 

Nice write up just did this today very easy to do following this.

 

those who've had the issue of the swaybar not allowing you room to remove the axle: was it as easy as removing the sway bar? my sway bar mount on the LCA looks like it'd get in the way, even with the bar gone.
saw a youtube video of a fella doing this on a manual hub 98; he ended up unbolting the shock to get his out. is this necessary?

 

I got the swaybar disconnected on the driver side but the passenger side the link would not loosen the nut was froze onto it. I ended up keeping it on when I changed it. It was a tight fit but doable