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How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by LoadedTaco, Nov 24, 2014.

  1. Nov 24, 2014 at 1:36 PM
    #1
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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    I created a write-up with a video in case anyone is thinking about learning how to change their own front brakes. I am currently trying to grow my Youtube channel so if this is useful, please like the video, subscribe to my channel, and maybe click the ads that pop up. It really helps me a lot!

    http://youtu.be/AiMVzzasVCw


    Link to My write-up on Google Drive (Here)


    Changing the brake pads on a 05+ Tacoma.

    Tools & Materials Used:
    - Floor Jack
    - 2 Jack Stands
    - Wheel Chock
    - 3/8” Drive Ratchet
    - Sockets (17mm, 12mm)
    - Needle Nose Pliers
    - Torque Wrench
    - Sledge Hammer- Impact Wrench
    - Impact Sockets (17mm, 12mm, 3/4”)
    - Caliper Piston Press ($18.99 Ebay)
    - Silicone Paste (Used on Caliper Pins)
    - Brake Lube (3M Copper Anti-seize)-
    - Breaker Bar

    Pads Here:
    http://amzn.to/2aw50r0

    Kit Here (Says red pads, mine came with green?):
    http://amzn.to/2aw561W


    If you have any reason to look at 1-6 stop and get help from someone.

    1) Park on flat ground
    2) Break lugs loose
    3) Apply Parking brake/chock the wheels
    4) Jack up the truck
    5) Support the truck with jack stands
    6) Remove front Wheel(s)

    7) Spray Brakes with brake cleaner and let dry.

    8) Remove cap from Brake Fluid reservoir

    9) Pull the cotter pins that hold the caliper pins. (Save if you don’t have replacements)

    10) Pull Caliper Pins that the pads slide on.
    a.These can be difficult to remove if they are rusted.
    b. Try tapping them with a hammer.

    11) Remove the pad retainer clip (Kind of looks like a w) (Save if you don’t have replacement)

    OPTIONAL STEPS 12-14, 16-17 : Some people say that it can be bad to push the pistons back without opening the bleeder valve because it can damage the ABS. If you are one of these people then do the following. One reason you may not want to do this is because you can introduce air into the brake system. If you do then you will need to bleed the brakes.

    12)--PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Clamp soft brake line being careful not to damage the line.
    13)--PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Attach hose to bleeder nipple
    14)--PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Open Bleeder valve

    15) Push Pads back using
    a. Big Screw Driver, Pry Bar, wedge of some kind between old pad and
    rotor. Be careful not to damage the rotor.
    b. Brake piston separator tool like one used in the video. ($18.99 Ebay)

    NOTE: Once you push back one side you will need to prevent it from coming out while you push the other side.

    16) --PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Close bleeder valve
    17) --PART OF OPTIONAL STEPS-- Unclamp brake line


    18) Now you can remove the old pads. Note which side they came out of. Typically the the metal warning strip will be on the inside pad. Make sure you match up your new pads with the old pads.

    Rotor Removal and Replacement

    19) First you will want to unbolt the clip on your spindle that holds your the hard brake lines to the soft brake lines. 12 MM

    20) Loosen the two bolts that hold on the caliper.

    21) Remove the bottom bolt first.

    22) Remove the top bolt **be aware that the caliper will now be loose.**
    Don’t let the caliper hang as it could damage the lines.

    23) With the caliper out of the way you can remove the rotor.
    a. It can be really difficult to remove these and some slight persuasion with
    a hammer between the studs can help. ***Do not hit the studs***
    b. If that doesn’t work you can thread two bolts into the rotor. Once they
    are both loosely in begin tightening them a little at a time. Switching
    between each bolt until it pops off.
    c. You can also hit the rotor from the back like I did in the video.

    24) Before you install your new rotor it is a good idea to clean the rotor surface with brake cleaner. Most rotors come with a coating to prevent rust.

    25) Put on your new rotors

    26) Bolt the caliper back on. (80 ft. labs for 2WD and 91 ft. lbs. for 4WD)

    Installing Pads

    27) Properly Lubricate the correct parts of new pads with a brake lubricant. **Warning** Do not use regular grease!
    a. Back of pads
    b. Sides (Pieces where the pads slides on besides the pins)
    c. ***Warning*** Do not apply any lubricant to the pads themselves

    28) Insert new pads & try your best to line up the holes where the pins will slide through.
    a. Orient the new pads the same way the old ones were installed.
    b. When in doubt metal warning clip goes on the inside leading edge of the
    rotor.

    29) Lubricate top pin with silicone paste. It is even more important to use silicone paste on floating calipers that have the internal sliding pins.

    30) insert the pin into the top pin location and insert the cotter pin.

    31) Insert the pad retainer clip

    32) Lubricate bottom pin with silicone paste and insert the pin into the bottom holes through the new pads and retainer clip. Replace cotter pin.

    33) Turn your vehicle to the on position and pump your brakes. They should get firm.
    a. If they don't get firm you probably did the optional steps incorrectly and
    now need to bleed the brakes… It takes a couple of min if you have the
    right stuff or a friend.

    34) Replace brake line bracket. 12 mm Socket

    35) Repeat all previous steps on other side.

    36) Once you are done check brake fluid level.
    a. Chances are it will be higher than when you began because your brake
    pistons are all pushed in requiring less fluid to activate the calipers.

    37) Put your tires back on and lower the vehicle safely.

    38) In a safe area go test your brakes.* (Make sure you completed step 33 before putting the truck in gear)
    a. If it feels squishy there is probably air in the brakes and you need to
    bleed the brakes.

    39) Bedding-in new pads properly.
    a. All pad companies have different recommendations. Typically they say
    go easy on them for the first 300-400 miles. More important with new
    pads.
     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2017 at 12:12 PM
  2. Nov 24, 2014 at 1:39 PM
    #2
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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  3. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:24 AM
    #3
    colbyrainey

    colbyrainey Well-Known Member

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    Great write-up, my only advice would be to get a bit more light under the wheel well! Thanks!
     
  4. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:32 AM
    #4
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    plan on doing this in a month or so thanks for the vid
     
  5. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:32 AM
    #5
    AndyTaco

    AndyTaco ACLBFTMW

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    Great job OP!
     
  6. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:48 AM
    #6
    Cmurder

    Cmurder 2011 TX TRD Offroad

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    nothing cool
    Great video. More lightning would be nice for future vids.
     
  7. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:49 AM
    #7
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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    Yeah I thought the same thing, but it wasn't until it was too late. Luckily it is in full HD and you can see most of it.

    Great make sure to post in here if it helped!

    Thanks! I couldn't find any write ups on here for it so I made my own.
     
  8. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:53 AM
    #8
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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    Noted!
     
  9. Nov 25, 2014 at 8:53 AM
    #9
    Manwithoutaplan

    Manwithoutaplan the full Monty

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    You the man :bananadance:
     
  10. Nov 25, 2014 at 11:07 AM
    #10
    Pigpen

    Pigpen A dirty little man

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    Thanks for taking the time to make the video and instructions
     
  11. Nov 25, 2014 at 11:20 AM
    #11
    Chas of MRT

    Chas of MRT Total Automotive Performance

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    Great writeup! Now I have somewhere to direct customers of our EBC kits. How are the brakes working out for you so far?
     
  12. Nov 25, 2014 at 11:32 AM
    #12
    toomanytoys84

    toomanytoys84 Well-Known Member

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    I love the caliper piston press! Haha, never seen one of those. C-clamp and a piece of wood?

    I've never used grease either on anything on my brake jobs. Changed a lot of pads and rotors.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2014
  13. Nov 25, 2014 at 11:36 AM
    #13
    CRU

    CRU Well-Known Member

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    Nice write-up but the head mounted camera made me nauseous. :puke:

    Same reason why I can't play 1st person shooters.
     
  14. Nov 25, 2014 at 12:28 PM
    #14
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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    No you're the man!

    You are welcome!

    It is great! Major difference in stopping power especially after a thousand miles.

    Right! I just googled it one day and found the tool, just to see if there was something out there. It made life so much easier. On the Tacoma brakes the C clamp isn't as easy to use because you can't come straight in on it. A lot of people just use big screw drivers, but if you don't keep the first side pressed in it will comes back out when you do the other side of the caliper.

    Yeah regular grease should never be used on grease.


    Ahh yeah didn't think about that. Might have to take that into consideration on future videos.

    Maybe just stick the written part.

    ~~~

    Hopefully I can get this post Stickied!
     
  15. Nov 30, 2014 at 8:47 AM
    #15
    tacoma16

    tacoma16 Well-Known Member

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    Check the build
    Thank you for posting this. Was planning on doing my brakes before but would have been screwed without some of your tips.

    Question though, do you have torque specs for the caliper bolts? Or just tighten them till you fart a little? :cool:
     
  16. Nov 30, 2014 at 5:37 PM
    #16
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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    Yeah I went over them with a breaker bar after I hit them with an impact to make sure they were tight.

    According to the torque spec sticky I see that it should be 80 ft. lbs. for 2wd and 91 ft. lbs. for 4wd.
     
  17. Nov 30, 2014 at 5:40 PM
    #17
    tacoma16

    tacoma16 Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, Ill have to take a gander over that sticky. Thanks for the heads up.
     
  18. Nov 30, 2014 at 5:44 PM
    #18
    LoadedTaco

    LoadedTaco [OP] Kick A$$ Member

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    No worries! I added that to the OP on that step so hopefully I can save some others time.

    Yeah it is a great thread I use it for every project just to be cautious.
     
  19. Nov 30, 2014 at 5:55 PM
    #19
    tacoma16

    tacoma16 Well-Known Member

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    lol yeah I just downloaded so I have it on hand. Im always paranoid that its not tight enough, or that im going to break something by over tightening. Not anymore.

    By the way, how are you liking the new brake set up? I ordered the green stuff 7000 pads for the better braking performance but less dust and longer lasting. They fit the bill?
     
  20. Nov 30, 2014 at 6:25 PM
    #20
    UrPebkac

    UrPebkac Well-Known Member

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    What is the auto adjustment that the truck does at 28:58 of the video called? What year does this start? My 2007 does not do this and I felt it in a friends 2012 as well. Kinda spooked me when I sat in his truck. Does it always do this when you start the truck, well put your foot on the break to start the truck?

    Great write up and video! Great reference for ppl.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2014
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