How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

OEM Toyota brake pads come with grease package,new shims and used this on the caliper pins.

 

Not a bad price. Hopefully they used good steel but you don't really need a lot of pressure to compress calipers. I welded my own out of stainless steel bars and c-clamps more than 15 years ago and I still use it to this day. Looks similar to your link.

 

You sure? I installed a new set of pads on my '11 and they didnt come with the shims, or grease. Im having a bitch of a time getting my pads to stop squealing.

Ive pulled the pads off and cleaned them twice. Added grease to the slide pins, and antisqueal to the back of the pads. Im slowly losing my mind from the squeal.

Im wondering if it would be worth paying the $50 the dealership wants for the shims, or if there is something else that I can do. Saving the money would be best.

 

I think some OEM pads do not come with shims or grease these are the pads that come with the truck from the factory when you buy these same pads they don't have the grease or new shims in the package. Toyota has another option for ceramic pads at a cheaper cost these are the ones I used on my truck and came with new shims,grease pack https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/oem-brake-pads-04465-az001-tm-34-11-w-free-ship.435172/ . When you use the other Toyota oem semi-metallic pad that came from the factory you have to reuse the old shims and your own grease. From what the Toyota instructions that came with my pads you apply the grease between the shim and the back of the brake pad and add a smear along the top and bottom metal backplate of the brake pad,none on the shim where it meets the caliper pistons. I also would use new caliper pins which are reasonable cost at Advanceauto parts or others, my pins were pretty gunked up and crusty which can also hang up the action and cause a drag on the brakes by not releasing, some people clean off the gunk and road crust with wire wheel drill attachment to get them smooth again.

 

I think these are the pads that I ended up with. When I called the dealership, they said that there were only a specific set of pads that would fit my truck, and then they needed the VIN#. Of course when I called them back with the information, it was the $100 pads that they said would only fit.

On my squealing pads, do you think the shims would be worth a try, or would it be better to go to something else pad wise?

What was on there:
EBC Sport Rotors
EBC Green pads

Now:
Same EBC Sport Rotors
Toyota OEM metalic pads (no shims - werent in box)

 

yes, these are the OEM from the factory pads semi metallic, too bad you don't live closer I have the oem shims off my 2013 I took off im not using them there are actually 2 shims per brake pad side so 4 all together on one brake setup side with these. my new came with 1 shim.

 

if you can get your money back on those pads, see if the dealer can get you the Toyota brake pads I used should cost you a lot less these are ceramic and they do not dust at all, the bite is very similar to the semi metallic and don't sqeaul at all

 

Im not sure if I can. Im willing to try but they have been on for maybe 600 miles.

 

yeah with 600 miles on them already, they probably wont exchange them

 

Yeah, I wouldnt think so. Thats why I was looking at the shims/other pads option. They bite great when using them, its just that squeal is making me nuts (more so than normal).

 

they have a slightly better bite then the ceramics I used but really not that much

 

Hey everyone, I have serviced the brakes on my truck twice in the past with no problems. However, this time I will be replacing the rotors with new ones instead of resurfacing them. I am planning on going with this kit from PowerStop, but wanted to know if anyone had opinions on it prior to me purchasing it. http://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-z16-kit/#y=2010&mk=TOYOTA&mo=TACOMA&ss=6 Lug Wheels

Also, I plan to replace the brake fluid while I am at it. Does anyone have a good DIY guide as this is something I have never attempted. I found this http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a1495/how-to-bleed-brakes/ online, but am unsure of how reliable it is for us.

Thanks!

 

Super helpful, thanks! ill be doing that soon

 

Many thanks to the OP for this informative thread! It's very nice to be able change pads without cracking the hydraulics, I've always had to do that in the past. I haven't read every page, so I apologize in advance if this has been covered, but for anyone struggling with squeaky pads, you can buy the pads either with or without the shims. I always get new shims, and the grease that goes on the shims (and only the shims) is M77 Molykote. It's expensive, about $20 for a 2 oz jar, but it should last many years, you don't need to use very much. A small packet of M77 comes with the shims, but you can buy it on Amazon. I use it on my Hondas as well.

Thanks again!

 

Subd for later

 

I've never used that brand before but just remember any cross drilled rotor will have a higher chance of cracking from temperature shock. slotted are more durable cause they don't go all the way thru the rotor. not to say all cross drilled rotors will crack, but more susceptible.
if you're mall crawlin probably not a big deal, but if you're doing trail runs thru water crossings I probably wouldn't.

 

Many thanks to the write up, the video and the comments in this thread. The Chilton manual was pretty useless (not much detail), so finding this was a nice surprise. I replaced the rotors and pads in my 2000 Pre Runner this afternoon. Went pretty smooth except that the driver's side had some problems:

1) Instead of a single long wire clip to hold the two pins in place, the previous owner used two paper clips instead. They worked, I guess, but were severely corroded and ready to break. I put in a couple of cotter pins I had on hand.

2) The anti-rattle clip was broken, and was jamming on the upper pin so much that I couldn't pull the pin out initially. Once I got it out of the way, the pin came out easily. The pin now has some gouges on it thanks to that anti-rattle clip, so I think I will get new pins soon.

Brakes are working nice and smooth now. No more squealing as I back out of my driveway!! The true test will be when I brake going down a steep hill. Was getting some pretty severe pulsing in the brake pedal last time I did this. Hopefully the new rotors will have cured that problem.

 

Im having a problem on my 13'. I have had enough of this high pitched sequel when I am backing up and braking at the same time. I have taken the brakes apart and cannot find the problem. Please if anyone has any suggestions, that would be great. Its def the brakes on mine, ive even replaced the rotors. Ive noticed its mostly coming from the front passenger side. Has anyone found a solution to this issue? Im almost to the point where im going to tear off the squealer to see if that helps. SOOOOOOOO Damn annoying!!!

 

Perfect timing...thanks for the post! Good luck on your channel...keep posting Taco repairs and such and you should do fine.

 

Good Timing! I'm having a friend that's a gearhead put my new Powerstop front pads and rotors on this weekend!