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How to Change Front Brakes (Pads and Rotors)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by LoadedTaco, Nov 24, 2014.

  1. Mar 26, 2018 at 4:50 PM
    #241
    SaphiraTaco

    SaphiraTaco Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the video! Here are my old pads with 96K. Went ahead and bought the brake caliper tool which made the job super easyIMG_3944.jpg IMG_3947.jpg
     
  2. Jun 26, 2018 at 3:08 PM
    #242
    tudes

    tudes Well-Known Member

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    Thank you for the video also! +1.
    I'm about to embark on this next week, post the 4th.
     
  3. Jul 1, 2018 at 9:38 AM
    #243
    423 TACO

    423 TACO Well-Known Member

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  4. Jul 10, 2018 at 7:22 PM
    #244
    Musubi3

    Musubi3 Well-Known Member

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    I upgraded my front brakes a few months back and this video, along with others, helped. When I bought it from the original owner, the truck would pulse when braking from 60+ mph to a stop. It wasn't severe, but more annoying. I went with the drilled and slotted Powerstop brakes kit and replaced it. Problem fixed!

    I bought the tool to compress the pistons, which I can see really helped me vs doing it with a screwdriver or something. I didn't bleed the lines, but made sure to remove the brake reservoir cap.
    The rotors needed a few smacks from my sledge to come loose. That as a little nerve wracking, but it all worked out.
    I made sure to properly break-in the brakes.

    The brakes have been working flawlessly since and I'm glad I did this.
     
    Harry T, SaphiraTaco and sioux like this.
  5. Jul 12, 2018 at 4:53 PM
    #245
    tudes

    tudes Well-Known Member

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    Got the TRD Brake Pads + new OEM rotors in for my front. All works as it should and very happy with the performance thus far.
     
  6. Jul 30, 2018 at 7:32 PM
    #246
    ziggynagy

    ziggynagy All Glory To The Hypnotoad

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    Any hints on freeing the caliper pins? Both are rusted on pretty good. I was able to hammer/wrench out the top pin, but the bottom is seized and I'm having a hard time finding an angle to hammer it out.
     
  7. Jul 31, 2018 at 12:18 PM
    #247
    Larzzzz

    Larzzzz Grande' Ricardo

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    I would suggest a pair of pliers; I'm an electrician and would use my linesman's pliers. I would put the nose of the pliers up against the pin and hit that with a hammer. Just make sure that the hinge side of the pliers is against the pin.

    I assume you've sprayed them with pb blaster or something...

    Good luck.:thumbsup:
     
    sioux likes this.
  8. Aug 26, 2018 at 10:01 AM
    #248
    007PNWtaco

    007PNWtaco Well-Known Member

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  9. Dec 14, 2018 at 9:56 AM
    #249
    Sprocket

    Sprocket Well-Known Member

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    My mechanic is pretty good about using OEM stuff on my truck - Problem is the calipers only last about a year before I get a warped rotor... Tend to be the driver's side. Very frustrating to say the least.

    Can I get a recommendation for calipers that will actually work and last longer than a year? Done with crappy parts.
    Thanks
     
  10. Dec 14, 2018 at 9:59 AM
    #250
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    That's odd indeed.

    I'm just going to start forking out for OEM calipers and likely rotors. Like you, I'm done with hit-or-miss aftermarket parts.
     
  11. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:00 AM
    #251
    Sprocket

    Sprocket Well-Known Member

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    Typo - My mech uses OEM...They aren't lasting...
     
  12. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:05 AM
    #252
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    Is he using brand new OEM from the dealership? Or remans/"OEM quality"? I ask because for a brand new OEM calipers to crap out in a year is pretty uncommon, especially repeatedly.
     
  13. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:07 AM
    #253
    Norton

    Norton Senior Member

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    I don't have first-hand experience yet, but others seem happy with this, which is my plan when the time comes.
     
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  14. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:09 AM
    #254
    Sprocket

    Sprocket Well-Known Member

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    Great Q - I'll be taking it in next week - needs an oil change. I'll get an answer then.

    If it means I switch over to after market high performance stuff like the power stop red calipers then so be it. Not looking forward to wrenching in the driveway in December though...
     
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  15. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:15 AM
    #255
    Biscuits

    Biscuits Thorny Crown of Entropy

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    @Sprocket

    Definitely get a straight answer from your mechanic. I'm not making any assumptions here, but I wouldn't be surprised if new-from-the-dealership OEM calipers weren't being used. I just can't fathom OEM calipers going out in a year.

    In the meantime, check out the link in @Norton's post. Definitely worth considering, and the linked post's author does his homework with things like this.
     
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  16. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:31 AM
    #256
    Sprocket

    Sprocket Well-Known Member

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    Thanks - Just read the whole thing - I'm betting crappy parts + crappy breaking habits caused the crappy pads to imprint on the crappy rotor.

    No mechanic has ever advised regarding a break-in procedure...
     
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  17. Dec 14, 2018 at 10:39 AM
    #257
    Norton

    Norton Senior Member

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    +1 to all of this. OEM is good, but @crashnburn80's recommendations are excellent and his solutions are outstanding.

    Can't speak to the parts your mechanic used, but proper break-in is critical to the functionality and longevity of your brakes.
     
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  18. Feb 3, 2019 at 1:00 PM
    #258
    johnnybuck2

    johnnybuck2 Member

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    Dude thank you. Definitely time for breaks for me. Don’t feel like showing out a ton of money to people this looks like something I can do
     
  19. Feb 22, 2019 at 5:39 AM
    #259
    eherlihy

    eherlihy Well-Known Member

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    I did my brake pads and rotors yesterday with Callahan 319mm rotors and ceramic pads (~$95 through Amazon), and found this thread todayo_O.

    I reviewed the video to see if I missed anything. Here are a couple of differences that I noted between how I did mine, and the video;
    1. I did not remove the cover for the brake fluid reservoir. I don't see the point of this...
    2. I have a TRD Off Road with the fancy ABS, and I did not open a bleeder valve. I believe that brake fluid is supposed to flow out of the cylinder. That's why the pads release when you remove pressure from the brake pedal. I also did not flush the system, because I had a frame swap completed 9 months ago, and that should have been done then.
    3. USE THE BOLT HOLES that are drilled and tapped into your rotors to remove the rotor! Don't use a hammer, because you are trashing that rotor from that point on! Back in the day they used to turn rotors on a lathe to re-true the rotor, and clean up any crud. The hammer precludes your ability to do this. Simply screw in a metric bolt (forget the size) in both holes and the rotor pops off. No muss & no fuss.
    4. I mounted the rotor before spraying with brake cleaner. I used 2 lug nuts to hold the rotor on the spindle, sprayed cleaner on, placed a rag on the rotor's surface, and spun the rotor. To clean the inner surface, put the rag where the caliper goes. I did it twice on each surface to be thourough.
    5. Torque spec for the 17mm Caliper bolt on the 4WD Taco is 91-foot-pounds, 2WD is 80-foot-pounds
    6. Torque spec for the 12mm Rigid-to-Flex line is 20-foot-pounds (I just tightened it till it felt "right")
    7. I re-used the old shims without lubricant. My shims had a little grease left from the old pads. I was surprised that the OP did not use the shims.
    8. I used a LITTLE molybdenum disulfide paste (Honda Molly 60 for my motorcycle) on the edges of the pads, where they contact the caliper to help the pads to move in and out easier.
    9. I did not use any grease/silicone on the pins, but I replaced the old pins. The old pins were corroded to sh!t. New pins were only $7 for two sets. I suggest that anyone doing their own brakes spend the ~10 bucks to replace the pins.:thumbsup: (Carquest/Wearever 14023)
    10. I installed the screecher on the outer, rather than the inner location. Not sure if I screwed up on this.:confused:
    TIP: If you are having trouble removing the first pin, try removing any other pin. Once you have one pin removed, use that as a drift pin to hammer out the rest of the pins.
    My brakes seem to be working OK. But now that I see your recommendation to put the screecher on the inside, I may have to pull them apart again:annoyed:.

    Thoughts???
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2019 at 9:22 AM
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  20. Feb 22, 2019 at 12:52 PM
    #260
    eherlihy

    eherlihy Well-Known Member

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    I couldn't live in suspense waiting for a reply. This afternoon I pulled the wheels, and swapped the pads. Now the screecher is the inside pad.

    While I had it apart I also lightly greased the pins, and cleaned out the track in the caliper that the pads sit in with a screwdriver. I was rewarded with a fair amount of built up crud (brake dust, rust, grease, and dirt). I suggest that cleaning the track should be a step added to the OP. Finally, while I had everything exposed, I painted the entire caliper with Rustoleum Rust Reformer.
     
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