How to: Deleting ADD system

I wont be able to tell you for a couple of months as the truck is torn down and im doing a buncha welding and fab work on it atm.

Mine is 4x4 converted from a prerunner so i dont really have any lights to connect to or deal with other than the 4x4 indicator but thats for my manual t case.

From years reading, researching and finally doing it i highly doubt there would be much impact to mpg. Maybe some but itll be negligible because now you just have an additional rotating inner shaft which isnt too heavy anyways. But like i said ill know for sure once its back on the road...

 

Did an ADD delete for a friend. Picked up an entire gx470 front diff with all mounts intact. It was a bit surface rusty at a local pick up cost of $75.

Sandblasted, painted, swapped over jackshaft tube and did ecgs bushing around 2 hours.

 

Where are y'all ordering part from these days? There used to be a go-to dealership out of Arizona, but it's been years since I've had to order factory parts. My local dealership was consistently 3 times higher back in the day.

 

For anyone running the JD Fab pivot kit.

Apparently, running the FJ tube and using your original mount bracket will throw the entire front diff slightly out of level. The driver's side was almost touching the pivot kit brace and the pass side was about 1 1/4" high.





I tried turning the mount over 180° but it just switched the low side to the pass. A pair of 3/16 washers between the mount and the tube solved the problem, no muss no fuss. Just wanted to give a heads-up.

 

Shouldn’t. Maybe your FJ tube or your frame is bent.

 

Seems unlikely. It's a new piece from Toyota, and I don't really see how it could be bent. You could make an argument that the mount bracket is bent (it's my original piece) but I would've noticed the CVs scraping by now as I've had the pivot kit on for 2 years now, and it's been doing it's job of reinforcing the frame since beore the first time i took the truck offraod. Either way, it's fixed on my truck I only posted as an FYI.

 

Has anyone checked if this will work on a 3rd gen tacoma? I have a 2023 and definitely wouldn’t mind getting rid of the front actuator if possible

 

Read the last 3 posts.

 

Great read! Thanks for taking the time to post it.

These are the kind of posts that make this such a great site. Even though it's unlikely I will ever tackle a project like this, it's nice to read and learn exactly how it's done.

 

I apologize, didn’t see that the guy above me had a 3rd gen. Edit: I now see that you are him

 

I probably wouldn't mess with it until it either fails or you have to mess with it.

 

If it ain't broke, break it so you can fix it.

 

Fixed (bdum) it for you

 

Agree to disagree. Why wait and pay $400 for the actuator when it fails (which you will still need after the conversion). The FJ swap can be done in an afternoon with a few hundred in parts. Do it now, I say.

 

Thats silly. There's other things to spend money on before this. I'd do the add delete in combination with an FJ tcase swap and full 4wd ecu delete but no reason to just ADD delete if everything is working.

Edit:
Unless you're just bored.

 

My experience was: a simple water crossing nuked my actuator. I realize that to some people the price of a new one is minimal, but to others it's a substantial amount. Add that to the price of parts for the delete conversion and, for some, I recommend doing it while everything still works. But I very much agree that there are plenty of other things to spend money on. The fact is that the actuator should never have been such a dainty little thing, or better yet should not even be used.

 

Why do you still need the actuator?

 

It has to report to the ECM. If it's out of the loop, you can't access 4WD. Thus, don't wait for it to crap the bed.

 

I thought people were doing the limit switch mod

 

There is more than one benefit to the mod, simplification and reliability of the drivetrain is number 1. Second, it takes out any backlash on the passenger half shaft assembly thereby increasing strength. Third is cost, When I made this thread I had since replaced actuator in the front twice, and since I’ve replaced it with the FJ tube I’ve yet to mess with it. It’s not a matter of if the actuator will fail it’s when.