How to: drop, clean, and reinstall the 2nd Gen transmission pan and filter

I have deleted the post to avoid confusion with 3rd gen.. In the 3rd gen post they also had reference to 2nd gen values which brought about the question

 

For those members in the know...
Would there be any difference in torque for a bolt with separate washer vs one with an integral flange head?

Maybe the ones with the flange head would help with the issue mentioned with salt getting in between the washer and bolt head corrosion...

 

Since order for WIX transmission filter fell through ordered the

Beck/Arnley 044-0345

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1271415&cc=3310144&pt=8600&jsn=885

Looks the same and also has a rubber vs paper/cork gasket. i know that dont make their own parts and and it may be a WIX anyway. Its just a screen after all so not worried.

 

How did you like this setup?

 

So far so good. I’ve got 50K miles with the pan. Wait till 150K for a fluid change. That would be 70K on the Amsoil atf.

 

If someone has one handy could they measure the diameter of the washer that is part of the factory bolts that retain the transmission pan... I have picked up some M6 X1.0 12mm flanged bolts as spares when i do the filter change in the spring but from the looks of it I think i may need to back them up with a larger diameter washer.

 

Delivered. Good and solid packaging so nothing damaged. Filter looks well made with fine stainless steel mesh filter screen. Came with O ring and good looking rubber like gasket. Have heard of other brands where its a paper or cork gasket that's sometimes ripped.

And like some of the other gaskets the holes are slightly smaller than the bolts so it holds them in to make install easier. You can just thread all the bolts thu the pan and into the gasket and they stay there. No more problem with trying to keep the gasket holes lined up while you are installing the bolts.

 

I just over torqued the drain plug and now it's stuck/stripped. Was using a harbor freight torque wrench and was wondering why it hadn't clicked.

Sigh... now I gotta order and new pan and wait. Might need to get a better wrench for these lower torque specs.

 

That sucks. I recommend using a beam type torque wrench or just knuckle tighten it, meaning I only handle the head of the ratchet instead of using the ratchet handle, which lessens the torque.

 

i know i couldn't do it but for those that can weld have you ever tried a weld on replacement drain plug?? It was mentioned that the internal threads in the pan are aluminum . This would at least give you a steel on steel replacement.

$8 FZJDSD 12MM KIT STEEL BUNG & STEEL PLUG + WASHER Transmission sump drain plug Oil pan drain plug (weld in)

https://www.amazon.com/FZJDSD-STEEL-WASHER-Transmission-drain/dp/B09FPDYCFP?crid=8708E5MIMLWA&keywords=FZJDSD+12MM+KIT+STEEL+BUNG+&qid=1702822703&sprefix=fzjdsd+12mm+kit+steel+bung+&%2Caps%2C87=&sr=8-3

 

Thanks for the recommendation, I'll look into the beam type! In retrospect I wish I had just knuckled it.

 

not sure if it was covered yet, but I noticed that in reference to the drain plug torque discrepancy : 21 Newton meters = 15.488 Foot Lbs

 

FYI, I worked for an International Testing and Inspection Corp. ( INTERTEK) for decades and our third party calibration/certification labs reported that the Harbor Freight torque wrenches consistently held calibration specs as well as any other brand ( snapon craftsman etc.) as long as the spring load was kept backed off to zero for long term storage and not dropped or damaged. And our in house mechanical design engineers confirmed that the use of a socket extension of any length has no effect on the final torque reading (as long as it is not subjected to excess "moment stress" as in using an impact hammer driver or jerking hard on it ( past the click) This has been a hotly debated myth defended by many structural bolting/welders in the field and shade tree mechanics worldwide. However an offset extension such as a spanner attachment will effect the reading if it is not at a 90 degree angle to the torque wrench handle because it adds significant fulcrum ratio leverage if not at 90deg

 

Not to derail the thread, but.. The majority of people dont back off the handle to the minimum setting after use. Absolutely drives me nuts. If I dont know the person Im working with I wont use their torque wrench. I always bring and use my own when working on buddies vehicles

 

I have a little digital luggage scale that’s very accurate. I stick my torque wrench in a vise, hook the scale to the handle and pull to check the torque wrench. You can even calibrate the scale if it gets off.

 

This is a good PSA. I'm sure some are not aware to return it to zero. I definitely back mine down after each use. I think the cause of death to mine is from a hard hit to the pavement once or twice. I ended up ordering the Quinn digital wrench on sale from harbor freight.. read many good reviews from various forums and review sites. It's a slight splurge but buy once cry once.

 

I did my 13 Tacoma at 45k first time and just did the filter, fluid, and flush again yesterday at 97k. I had put Amsoil TF at 45 and I know from doing it the first time at 45k this time the fluid was not as dark, I guess some brake in on original fluid is expected. I see above an aftermarket kitting, I'll keep that in mind for next time, but I used original Toyota screen, orings, crush washers and pan gasket. Only difference this time I did not play the jumper wire game on the Obd2 since I now have a much nicer scanner than I use to, so I could see the TF temp.

 

Not at all worried about the cost of 1 extra quart of ATF. Was just curious how dropping the pan and changing the filter adds 1.5 quarts to the standard drain and fill? Is it due to the drain plug not being flush with the bottom of the pan like say the one on the engine oil drain plug? Did I just answer my own question

 

It’s that and additional fluid comes out when you take off the old screen filter.