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    Quick Links: OME lift kit, anything else I might need? Your dakar leafs over time Question on D29XL Stainless steel uni-ball for TC UCA 05+ Tacoma Bilsteins for Taco 06 4x4 Leads???? Seeking height adjustment for B8 5100s for '97 Tacoma 4X4

How to: Front shock/spring removal

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by chris4x4, Mar 28, 2009.

Page 13 of 31
  1. Jun 23, 2010 at 4:34 PM
    #241
    SlurpeeBlueMetallic

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    SlurpeeBlueMetallic FFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU...

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    Check here as well...
     
    SlurpeeBlueMetallic, Jun 23, 2010
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  2. Jun 28, 2010 at 6:22 PM
    #242
    SCFirefighter

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    SCFirefighter on idiot patrol ;)

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    Just did my rear billy's and ToyTec AAL today. I'll attempt the front ToyTec coils and 5100's probably Wednesday. However, I'm not as confident as I was with the rear axle.
    I'm also thinking of taking the rented Autozone coil compressor back lol. That big red ToyTec spring looks a lot meaner than the OEM spring.
     
    SCFirefighter, Jun 28, 2010
    #242
  3. Jul 2, 2010 at 1:21 PM
    #243
    splitbolt

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    splitbolt Voodoo Witch Doctor

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    Okay, so I have all my Toyota small parts; but no black washer.
    Chris, is this the little gasket that comes on Bilstein shocks? Which doesn't make any sense because you said it goes on top of the plate....

    If it is and the OME shocks did not come with one; is it really necessary to reuse it?

    ETA: Called ARB and they have no idea about a black washer/gasket. They also said the flat washer that you said goes on first should go on top, but is not necessary since our application reuses the old top washer.
     
    splitbolt, Jul 2, 2010
    #243
  4. Jul 2, 2010 at 1:46 PM
    #244
    kinetik873

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    kinetik873 Well-Known Member

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    Chris, this thread saved me a lot of headache when I did my lift last week. Thanks a lot brother.
     
    kinetik873, Jul 2, 2010
    #244
  5. Jul 8, 2010 at 12:19 AM
    #245
    Kelson

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    Kelson Well-Known Member

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    Kelson, Jul 8, 2010
    #245
  6. Jul 8, 2010 at 12:46 AM
    #246
    4WD

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    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Chris has got it laid out for you guys in a simple , straight forward, procedure & if any of you have the mech. aptitude & want to do it yourselves if you go to autozone they might just loan you the
    spring compressor for free with a $50 deposit like they do here in San Diego, I dunno, worth checking into......:cool:


    couple pics from my 1st gen. procedure (bsically the same as 2nd gen in regards to R&R/safety issues) pic with the center nut thats not to be removed until spring is correctly compressed (it holds the "pre load").....good luck:D

    Web DSC01369.jpg
    Web DSC01305.jpg
    Web DSC01306.jpg
     
    4WD, Jul 8, 2010
    #246
    Tibetan Nomad likes this.
  7. Jul 8, 2010 at 7:22 AM
    #247
    Janster

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    Janster Old & Forgetful

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    Yes it is...

    But the setups are almost identical and if you read and look at the pictures and look at your 2nd gen truck - you'll figure it out. :D They're not that different and its not that hard.
     
    Janster, Jul 8, 2010
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  8. Jul 8, 2010 at 7:23 AM
    #248
    Kelson

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    Kelson Well-Known Member

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    true that. :D
     
    Kelson, Jul 8, 2010
    #248
  9. Jul 10, 2010 at 1:19 PM
    #249
    SlurpeeBlueMetallic

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    Went through the process again today to lower my front 5100s from 1.75" to 0.85". Just wanted to say "Great write-up!" After having done it twice now the first post in this thread makes a really handy cheat sheet... check, check, check, done!
     
    SlurpeeBlueMetallic, Jul 10, 2010
    #249
  10. Jul 13, 2010 at 5:16 PM
    #250
    Sampson90

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    Sampson90 Well-Known Member

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    Used this thread to replace my 2005 DC LB SR5 front shocks and springs with TRD springs and Bilsteins that I bought here last week for a great price. Definitely helped me get it done easily.

    Only thing I did differently, was splitting the tie rod end instead of the upper ball joint to make room. My tie rod ends had 60 k on them so I wasn't worried about tearing the rubber boots, since I had new ones to replace them with.

    This site is GREAT !!!!:thumbsup:
     
    Sampson90, Jul 13, 2010
    #250
  11. Jul 16, 2010 at 3:52 AM
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    ph16drive

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    ph16drive \m/.....\m/

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    So I've read this thread over and over again and have come to the conclusion that I'm going to have a shop swap the shocks for me. One concern I have is making sure they do it correctly. If I'm only planning to have Billy 5100's @ 1.75 and reuse the TRD springs, do they reuse all of the same hardware (washers etc) from the existing assembly and in the same order as they were removed? What caused this confusion for me is the chat on page 9 about an "isolator" which I'm still not clear about. Was that only with regards to the OME spring? Do I need to buy an "isolator" or reuse the one (if any) that is already there?
     
    ph16drive, Jul 16, 2010
    #251
  12. Jul 16, 2010 at 7:16 AM
    #252
    chris4x4

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    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    You can re use your existing stuff.
     
    chris4x4, Jul 16, 2010
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  13. Jul 16, 2010 at 7:24 AM
    #253
    ph16drive

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    ph16drive \m/.....\m/

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    As always, Thanks Chris!
     
    ph16drive, Jul 16, 2010
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  14. Aug 1, 2010 at 10:38 PM
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    AKTacoma

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    AKTacoma Dedicated Crew Chief

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    I swapped my struts out a few months ago and had a few issues putting them back in due to the lift "mod" that was done to my truck.. yes it was done before I bought it, but I had to put the stock jack upside down in the wheel well to push the control arms down to be able to get the strut assy back in. I think my left spring is a little crooked though, it looks like its bowing out some, is this from not marking them before taking them off or not uncompressing the springs evenly? and could it cause the "taco lean"?

    DSC_0109.jpg

    DSC_0113.jpg
     
    AKTacoma, Aug 1, 2010
    #254
  15. Aug 3, 2010 at 6:05 AM
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    MadeInMaine

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    MadeInMaine MadeInMaine

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    Great write up!!!
     
    MadeInMaine, Aug 3, 2010
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  16. Sep 9, 2010 at 7:27 AM
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    Fabulous

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    How tight does the castle nut need to be before putting the clip back in? No spec is given. Is it just supposed to be good and tight?
     
    Fabulous, Sep 9, 2010
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  17. Sep 9, 2010 at 7:38 AM
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    chris4x4

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    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    chris4x4, Sep 9, 2010
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  18. Sep 9, 2010 at 7:51 AM
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    Fabulous

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    Thanks Chris.
     
    Fabulous, Sep 9, 2010
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  19. Sep 15, 2010 at 1:18 PM
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    larryde09

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    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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    I was reading the Haynes manual, and it says to remove the tie rod end...is that really necessary? Can I get the shock out of there without removing it? Also, I understand I need to unbolt the sway bar ball joints, but do i need to completely remove the sway bar too (e.g. unbolt it from the frame)?
     
    larryde09, Sep 15, 2010
    #259
  20. Sep 15, 2010 at 4:30 PM
    #260
    SCFirefighter

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    SCFirefighter on idiot patrol ;)

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    Try it and find out. I believe I had to take apart the tie-rod end. I had to to insert a sway bar relocation bracket anyway so I had to take that off too.
    The sway bar is just two bolts. I had a helluva time with the tie-rod end. I messed one up and had a new one overnighted lol. Maybe if I had the right tools that would have been easier :)
     
    SCFirefighter, Sep 15, 2010
    #260
Page 13 of 31

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