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How to: Front shock/spring removal

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by chris4x4, Mar 28, 2009.

Page 21 of 31
  1. Feb 9, 2012 at 9:46 PM
    #401
    nobody4343

    #401
    nobody4343 Well-Known Member

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    ^ hmm gnna try that first then will it be harder to shove back in there sinc it's gnna be a larger shock and coil
     
    nobody4343, Feb 9, 2012
    #401
  2. Feb 9, 2012 at 10:05 PM
    #402
    4WD

    #402
    4WD cRaZy oLdmAn

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    Grey wire MOD, deck plate, diff breather MOD, 2nd gen. OME 883# on Tundra 5100's, OMD custom 3" leafsprings, rear shock relocation, Ivan Stewart TRD rims w/285/75/16's, '02 bumper MOD, Famous Fabrications sliders , LED interior/exterior lights, bed bar, Custom tube bumper, Old school KC day lighters,Red Ring 8" HID flood, Kenwood vhf 2M.. umm some other shit I'm forgetting right now
    Yeah I get that, as long as your not over 3" (which of course you wont be 'cause you'd have a drop bracket involved) My 5100's set at top is just under 3" & the assembly will go up same way with just a little effort..
     
    4WD, Feb 9, 2012
    #402
  3. Feb 10, 2012 at 5:56 AM
    #403
    nobody4343

    #403
    nobody4343 Well-Known Member

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    Ok I'll try to shimmy em out first then gnna start installing when I get of work today
     
    nobody4343, Feb 10, 2012
    #403
  4. Feb 13, 2012 at 5:19 AM
    #404
    Gregoryk

    #404
    Gregoryk Well-Known Member

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    Greg
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    bandsaw, Impact wrench, PB blaster made the job easier. 22deg weather was a royal pain to work with. Dealing with shocks that have been on the truck for 136,000 miles and 6 years in NE PA weather, spring for new hardware (rubber and washers) on the upper shock mounting area. I re used mine, but would of been so much easier if I did not have to salvage the old hardware.
     
    Gregoryk, Feb 13, 2012
    #404
  5. May 1, 2012 at 7:51 PM
    #405
    JTaco386

    #405
    JTaco386 Well-Known Member

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    The photos on the first page are not loading on my computer, it states "photo no longer available" can these be reposted? I'll be doing my install soon and this seems like a great reference
     
    JTaco386, May 1, 2012
    #405
  6. May 1, 2012 at 7:58 PM
    #406
    chris4x4

    #406
    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    They were accidentally deleted, and I cant get them back. Other members have posted pics in the thread, so you might have to use those.
     
    chris4x4, May 1, 2012
    #406
  7. May 1, 2012 at 11:07 PM
    #407
    JTaco386

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    JTaco386 Well-Known Member

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    Ok, thanks!
     
    JTaco386, May 1, 2012
    #407
  8. May 28, 2012 at 5:47 PM
    #408
    Gene563

    #408
    Gene563 Well-Known Member

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    TRD catback exhaust, Undercover hard tonneau, Vent visors, Husky liners, customized seat covers, front license plate bracket, rear suspension TSB, Eibach springs w 5100s@0, & General Grabber AT2 (265.70.17).
    Subscribed.
     
    Gene563, May 28, 2012
    #408
  9. Aug 26, 2012 at 4:49 PM
    #409
    TheWeatherman

    #409
    TheWeatherman Well-Known Member

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    Is a tie rod end puller needed to remove the tie end bar?

    The shocks should then just slide in not prying or anything?
     
    TheWeatherman, Aug 26, 2012
    #409
  10. Aug 26, 2012 at 8:51 PM
    #410
    Chuy

    #410
    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    No tie rod end pullers necessary. Disconnect the sway bar. The lower ball joint is a two-piece connected to the lower control arm with two bolts- removing them will lower the lower control arm enough to take out the shock/spring assembly. You will not have to remove the ball joint. Use a hydraulic jack to lower it down.
     
    Chuy, Aug 26, 2012
    #410
  11. Aug 26, 2012 at 9:04 PM
    #411
    Chuy

    #411
    Chuy Well-Known Member

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    Did everything go OK? For the benefit of others...the two bolts are on the ball joint that connect to the LCA. The ball joint is actually a two-part piece that separates. Kinda ingenious - this way you don't mess with removing the ball joint.
     
    Chuy, Aug 26, 2012
    #411
  12. Sep 21, 2012 at 4:08 PM
    #412
    1stTacoma

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    1stTacoma Well-Known Member

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    sub'd
     
    1stTacoma, Sep 21, 2012
    #412
  13. Sep 24, 2012 at 6:01 PM
    #413
    VE7OSR

    #413
    VE7OSR нет войне

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    Armour: All-Pro Skid plates - IFS, transmission, and transfer case. Pelfreybilt rear standard plate bumper, Metal Tech Sliders w/ kickout and dimple die filler plates. Front Suspension: OME 885 + NitroCharger 9000 shocks + 1/2" spacers for a 3" lift. Superbumps replacing stock bumpstops. Camburg ball joint UCA SS braid brake lines Future: ADS Extended length, extended length UCA BJ to increase droop capability Rear Suspension: All-Pro Expedition rear leafs, Walker Evans 27" rear shocks, extended rear brake lines (Wheelers Offroad), U -bolt flip kit, rear Timbren bumpstops. Future: Hammer Hangers, Shock relocate, ADS 12" or 14" shock. Interior: Weatherteck floor liners - front, Wet Okoles- front, ScanGauge, LED interior & map lights. Power moonroof. Exterior: Raider Cobra canopy, retrofit headlight by Insight, LED bulbs all around, modified flasher unit for LEDs. Rear diff breather mod. Front diff vibe problem, driver's side needle bearing replaced with ECGS bushing. yet to install: HID Blazer Fog Retrofit, LED Flood & Spot, + switches, fuse panel. swaybar relocate blocks (build my own)

    I agree, just did an install of OME 885 + Nitrocharger shock assembly. I did not need to remove the sway bar or take off the steering linkage. Just needed to raise the front of the truck up to provide 26" of clearance between the ground and the sway bar so the shock assembly could slide out once the LCA swings out of the way.

    Details: Loosened all the bolts first, three on the top of the strut, bottom shock mount to LCA bolt, LCA bolts at the frame (mark your current camber adj position) and the two bolts holding the LCA to the spindle.
    A 24" breaker bar, and WD-40 came in handy for this.

    Remove the bottom shock mount bolt, the LCA bolts at the spindle, push the LCA out of the way, and then remove the three nuts at the top of the strut. Spring & shock assembly slide out. Assembly is the reverse; use locktite on the bottom LCA bolts. Use antiseize compound on the remaining bolts and torque to spec. Torque the bottom shock mount bolt once there is weight on the assembly, when the truck is back on the ground. Three hours with no rush start to finish, by a non-mechanic.
     
    VE7OSR, Sep 24, 2012
    #413
  14. Jan 30, 2013 at 4:05 PM
    #414
    xyourlocaldjx

    #414
    xyourlocaldjx Well-Known Member

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    you sir... are a life saver! after 30 minutes of hammering the shizzle out of the threaded part and searching for another 30 minutes... i read your post... two whacks and bam! it came right off. I yelled out loud "YESSS".

    my dog gave me a weird look. anyways. thanks!


    spoke too soon. the other side wont budge. I've whacked the living hell out of it and no cigar.

     
    xyourlocaldjx, Jan 30, 2013
    #414
  15. Feb 16, 2013 at 10:12 PM
    #415
    phatso

    #415
    phatso Well-Known Member

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    Kit came in today...rear is installed...

    here is what I have for the front...
    [​IMG]

    Am I missing anything?

    Will I be using anything from the original assembly?



    Edit: I think I missed this...

    NEW: We now offer Assembly with new top mounts and bushings for $100.00! Choose from options below.

    Am I screwed and have to order this...or can I use the old assembly...or can I get this from Napa or O'Reillys?
     
    phatso, Feb 16, 2013
    #415
  16. Feb 16, 2013 at 10:52 PM
    #416
    Boost JuNkY

    #416
    Boost JuNkY Well-Known Member

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    ^re use the oem top hats, bushings and spring isolator. You'd need a HD wall mounted spring compressor. I bought a portable clamshell style. Didnt work very well. Scratched the hell outta my eibachs before.
     
    Boost JuNkY, Feb 16, 2013
    #416
  17. Feb 16, 2013 at 11:01 PM
    #417
    phatso

    #417
    phatso Well-Known Member

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    phatso, Feb 16, 2013
    #417
  18. Feb 16, 2013 at 11:09 PM
    #418
    phatso

    #418
    phatso Well-Known Member

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    Thanks to Chris4x4 and Boost JuNkY I now know I can use the original assembly...

    but how tight do I need to tighten the center bolt?
     
    phatso, Feb 16, 2013
    #418
  19. Feb 17, 2013 at 7:28 AM
    #419
    chris4x4

    #419
    chris4x4 [OP] With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine. Moderator

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    FlimFlubberJAM
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    New shocks should have a hole in the top of the shaft that accepts a 5mm allen wrench, or it should be notched for a 5mm open wrench.
     
    chris4x4, Feb 17, 2013
    #419
  20. Feb 17, 2013 at 8:27 AM
    #420
    Boost JuNkY

    #420
    Boost JuNkY Well-Known Member

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    Nope, that bolt will bow on ya and possibly break. I had those that i used to use for honda civics and it got bent fairly easy on my tacoma.

    http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_8271055_0006537861

    ^I have this type and it works, except the arms are too fat and will scratch the hell outta your coils. I grinded down the arms to make em fit. Ive only used it once ever. I just take the springs and use my shops compressor.

    This got me thinking about safety, I dont even compress the struts to release the spring tension, I just wedge the coilover against a wall and my impact gun wedge in by my heavy tires and let it rip. So far, no injuries but no way its safe. :D
     
    Boost JuNkY, Feb 17, 2013
    #420
Page 21 of 31

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